Rolling & Tipping Perfection

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
I am in the process of refinishing my boom and will soon be to the painting stage. I will be rolling and tipping Interlux Perfection. It seems that others here have used this with good results. What brush is recommended for the tipping? Badger? Foam?

Is the primer rolled and tipped also, or just sanded?
 

Greg Ross

Not the newest member
Applying Interlux Perfection

I happen to have the "Interlux Boat painting Guide" circa 2005 and according to that data;
Perfection being used on aluminum would need
"surface primer" Viny-Lux Primewash 353/ 354 (etching primer?)
"primer/ undercoat" Epoxy Primecoat 404/ 414
Overcoating times, minimum at 73 deg F;
surface primer 1 hour
primer/ undercoater 8 hours and
topcoat/ 2nd coat 12 hours.
They recommend for application;
"Roller" solvent resistant high density/ closed cell foam, and
"brush" China Bristle
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
I used a badger hair brush. The key to getting a good finish are temp, humidity and proper thinning. I rolled and tipped the primer and then sanded. I also sanded between finish coats. See my project below and feel free to contact me offline if you like.

Mast Refinish(link)

[
 
Last edited:

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
I have all the appropriate primers, solvents and thinners recommended. The rollers are West System foam rollers for epoxy; the cores look like plain cardboard, but the labelling on the bag indicates they are for epoxy. Hope they don't fall apart. I have a good badger hair brush.

One question about corrosion. I have ground out all the really bad corrosion spots and will be filling in the areas with weld then levelling back to original contour. There are a few small spots that I didn't grind out becasue they appeared to be very superficial, but after sanding the bare metal and doing a preliminary acid etching you can still see a little discoloration. Will these areas eventually cause the paint to fail in these areas?
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
"Rust never sleeps"

The Vinylux will help but unless the corrosion is completely removed, it will probably come back.
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
A boat painter I know recommends this trick: Every two feet of hull tipped, dip the brush in reducer, snap it out and continue. The reducer flows the paint off the brush more smoothly. Now, thats when painting a hull, a boom, etc. may require the reducer treatment less frequently. RT
 

Greg Ross

Not the newest member
Aluminum corrosion definitely never sleeps

"Rust never sleeps"

The Vinylux will help but unless the corrosion is completely removed, it will probably come back.

Aluminum has one very interesting property, it oxidizes in a matter of seconds. In the marine alloys it also age hardens, but that's another story.

The etch primers, eg; zinc chromate-very nasty stuff! do a great job on clean aluminum. But they cannot cut thru raw heavy oxide. Guaranteed, if you cover over those corroded pits, the corrosion will return and your paint/ coating will fail.

If you intend to apply weld to these flaws you'll have to grind all the oxide out before weld will ever fuse. The reason Aluminum is welded with high frequency is because the pulsed arc is needed to punch thru the surface oxide/ even worse with corrosion. The melting temperature of the oxide is higher then the aluminum itself. If a higher amperage is used in place of high frequency, you'll just melt right thru the material.

I refinished my mast Summer before last, in my humble opinion, unless you've got vast craters weakening the mast then I would not bother with welding restoration. Clean out the cavity(s), apply the primers and then apply fillers for cosmetics. Reprime and topcoat.
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Thanks for the tips on tipping. (Couldn't resist!)

The reducer idea for brushing occurred to me last night. Makes sense.

There was some pretty serious corrosion in some places. (See my thread from several weeks ago, "How Bad Is It: Boom" for some pics.) I ground out all the really bad spots and had the "divots" welded in last night. The welding went really well in most places. I even added extra reinforcing plates where the internal outhaul anchor bolt attaches. Where cleats were attached for the topping lift and outhaul I am going to move the cleats slightly so the screws are in virgin extrusion. The gooseneck and outhaul end fittings will also have their mounting screws moved to new positions.
 
Last edited:
Top