Repower an Ericson 38

captainspicy

Junior Member
Hi, Help me out please... Has anyone put a new power plant in their Ericson 38? Mine is 1982, and my wife and I will be going offshore for a few years... Our 26 year old Universal just doesn't give me a whole lot of confidence as it has been the major source of problems on our boat. I want to put a new Diesel, or at least a rebuilt in. Budget is a problem, but more important is the peace of mind of having a more reliable engine. Please share any expereinces you have with repowering an E38, what engine did you repower with, cost, issues, pros, cons etc.
MUCH APPRECIATED! Thanks.
 

bigtyme805

Member III
How many hours are on the engine? What replacement parts have you put into it? Lastly what is compression?
 

captainspicy

Junior Member
Hours are unknown. Just bought the boat in July. I've had some fuel issues this summer, have replaced about 5 filters. I also unfortunatley blew my head gasket after running the engine for about an hour an half without having the raw water seacock open... OUCH I know, bad move... that's a mistake not to make again. I'll have a mechanic out end of this month and will test compression on the engine. I want to take a serious look at repowering even though that iself could be the source of some issues... It's just having a 26 year old motor that I have no idea on the history, and that I know I've myself caused some damage to in our boat as we prepare to go offshore.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Just got home from the local boat show. All those Betamarine diesels were lookin' mighty fine...
There are several engineering features in their marinization of the basic Kubota block that, to me, look a *lot* better than the stuff on the Universal engines. The heat exchanger, for one; and the workmanship in the alternator bracket seems much better thought out. The built-in oil change pump is nice, too!

If we break anything major on our Universal, Beta is no. 1 on our list of replacement engines.

Loren
 
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captainspicy

Junior Member
Funy thing Loren, I was just on a BetaMarine Site trying to find pricing. Looks like they put out a 43 Hp might be a nice option for my 38' Do you by chance have any idae what these engines are priced at for USD?
 

Greg Ross

Not the newest member
Repowering options

First thing that comes to mind is that you should consult your Insurance Agent, you may not be subject to the "Budget" constraints you think you are limited to. Many Yacht Policy wordings are very broad and this type of machinery damage may well be covered.
Unless you have shaft, gland, strut or/ and prop issues I would suggest you restrict your "repower options" to engine/ gear combinations of roughly the same hp and gear ratio. This way you won't have to get into resizing the prop.
If you've got the space go with a dripless gland, if you can "afford it", have a Pro install the whole thing.
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Neglect and abuse is what kills any diesel engine. Kubotas are very robustly built and easily last 10K hrs with regular care. Your engine may be just fine but you wouldn't know that unless you have a compression test done. Many diesel engines have plenty of life left in them but have oil leaks, fuel problems, cooling problems, etc.

Consider having an oil analysis performed. This is a great way to get an idea on the health of an engine.

If the compression checks out fine and the engine starts and runs well then have the valves adjusted, change the lube and filter, install a new heat exchanger, waterpump, coolant and thermostat, have injectors checked for pop and pattern and don't worry any more. If the engine is a leaker then the other option is to remove it, reseal and regasket then reinstall. Consider new engine mounts at this point.

Last time I check a new engine was $10K??? The work above could be done by a competent DIY'er for much, much less. Even paying a pro I don't see how this would be 1/2 of that figure.

Fuel problems are a different issue entirely. They will haunt new or old engine alike.

I admit I am a bit of a diesel freak. My terrestrial diesels have hundreds of thousands of miles on them and they run like fine swiss watches. Miles and hours don't scare me a bit.

RT
 
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Gary Peterson

Marine Guy
Rob said it correctly.
You can tell a lot about the condition of an engine when you start it. If there is a weak cylinder, it will show up right after starting while the cylinders are cool and minimal compression. Will show some white smoke and will not run smoothly initially.
Was your head gasket replaced and what was the condition of the cylinder liners and pistons? Any evidence of "white oil" in the crankcase?
These Kubota engines are 91 cubic inches and only 32 BHP. VERY understressed engine.
When one is motoring +/- 6 Knots or so you are only asking the engine to produce around 20 BHP at the most as you are on a cubic prop load curve and the power demand drops sharply below full throttle on a displacement hull. Engine should last your lifetime!!

Gary Peterson
E381 QUIXOTIC :egrin:
 
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dwigle

Member III
M35 b

While I didn't make the swap and don't know all the particulars, the PO of my 38 installed a Universal M35B. It fits nicely, and as far as I know he did the work with the help of a couple of friends. The mounts fit the rails nicely, though it has 4 mounts instead of three. When he talked about it, it sounded as though it was done in the water.

Smooth water motoring at 5.5 to 6.5 knots at 1800 depending on bottom condition with a 15X11 prop.

Don Wigle
Wiggle Room
E38 #8
 

captainspicy

Junior Member
Universal M35B

Hey Wiggle... What is the HP on the M35B? is that 35HP? my Universal 5432 in there now with 32 hp seems to be just enough. I'm probably going to do a repower on my 38 because we plan to go offshore and possibly halfway around the world. I will probably have it in my budget to do so, and hey New is new. So I'm thinking of looking for somewthing in the 40-45 hp range to have some extra juice if we find ourselves fighting serious currents etc. I'm a sailor, and will sail 99% of the time, but with a crew of 2 (me and my wife) and the unknown it would feel nice to know we have a power plant to rely on that will have enough juice to push us safely through any situation.
Now any suggestions for me for a repower on my E38 with a solid performer in the 40-45 hp range?
 

Gary Peterson

Marine Guy
Captainspicy,

The 1' shaft will be good to around 50 BHP so as long as the shaft is Aquamet 22 you should have no issues there. Check and see how much space is between your strut and prop. Should be 1 " or less. You don't want to break a shaft in the middle of nowhere.
IMHO I would spend the $ on an extra starter, injectors, alternator, and fuel cleaning system. Check the flapper system in the exhaust system before the muffler and install, or make sure there is a serviceable shut off valve in the exhaust exit at the transom.

Just my 2 cents US. (my 2 cents would have been Canadian if Perry would have lost the Battle of Lake Erie in the Battle of 1812)!

Gary Peterson
E381 QUIXOTIC
:egrin:
 
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dwigle

Member III
yup 35

The M35B is 35 HP. They do have an M50 (42HP) with essentially the same footprint but of course a little longer, wider and higher.
While you're looking, you might also take into account fuel economy and how much fuel you can readily carry.
Good luck in your search.

Don Wigle
 

captainspicy

Junior Member
How about Westerbeke 44B

I've come across a later model 38 on Used Boats dot com advertising the Westerbeke 44B installed in 2006. Boat is on the Cheapeake. I sail out of Baltimore for now, till we shove off, Does anyone ahve direct experience in the area with a repower of an Ericson 38 with a Westerbeke 44B? 44 Hp sounds like it would be nicer than 32. It's about 70lbs lighter than the Universal 32hp and looks like it would fit well. If anyone has direct experience with this pecific repower please reply. Thanks.:egrin:
 

Ernest

Member II
Simple way to not burn up water impeller, and maybe engine

When putting the boat away and shutting off the seacock for the engine intake, also hang the ignition key on the seacock. Then when searching for the key you'll rember to open the seacock.
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Keeping the key on the seacock.

All, Ernie is right on. I have a fresh water flushing system built into the boat that depends on the main tank for its fresh water. After flushing the engine, the key ALWAYS goes back to the 3-way ball valve used for the flushing that's located under the galley sink. When using the boat the next time, I'm forced to go in there to get the key and glance at the orientation of the handle at the same time. I can't imagine anything worse than burning up an engine from lack of cooling water at my own hand. By the way, this system is pretty neat, taking only 20 seconds (30 seconds to be thorough) at idle to completely purge all salt water from the heat exchanger, Vernalift and hoses, right out to the exhaust flange on our Yanmar 3GMF. By religiously taking these few moments, the engine always sits in fresh water when at rest. Glyn Judson E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 

Gary Peterson

Marine Guy
Captainspicy,
Don't forget to replace your transmission with a new one. This will also include changing your shaft coupling. You will need to change your instrument panel and if the new one doesn't fit correctly, you will need to modify where it is installed. Don't forget to change your exhaust system from the riser to the transom as the new engine will flow more exhaust gas. The muffler is probably "toast" after running the engine with-out cooling water. On the acceptance sea trial don't forget to document exhaust back pressure, engine room Delta T, and fuel pump inlet restriction. These items could be needed to warranty your new engine and the manufacturer might also need a Torsional Analysis of the propulsion system. Information for the Mass Elastic Equiviliant data can be difficult to obtain.
Repowers can be very expensive and time consuming to be done correctly.

Gary Peterson
E381 QUIXOTIC
:egrin:
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Package Deal...

Captainspicy,
Don't forget to replace your transmission with a new one. This will also include changing your shaft coupling. You will need to change your instrument panel and if the new one doesn't fit correctly, you will need to modify where it is installed. Don't forget to change your exhaust system from the riser to the transom as the new engine will flow more exhaust gas. The muffler is probably "toast" after running the engine with-out cooling water. Gary Peterson E381

To add a bit to Gary's informative writeup:
One additional engine replacement note: all the Yanmar, Universal, and Betamarine engines I have seen for sale new come on a pallet, complete with transmission, panel, and wiring harness. Strictly IMHO, that's one *huge* reason to go "new" and get matched parts, all with a warranty.
The exhaust, admittedly, would have to be adapted or renewed. This is usually always a great time to clean out the fuel tank and change out any older supply and return hoses, too...
:cool:

Best,
Loren
 
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captainspicy

Junior Member
Westerbeke also has a new Panel/ Transmission package etc. I agree. when I do the repower I will do my best to adress all items from Fuel delivery, air circulation, and exhaust to put the boat in the best operating position. One reason why my current motor took the bad hit, was that my panel is shot, the only instrument that was working was the Tach. I had just bought the boat in July, previous owner was sloppy. I should have imediatly adressed these items, But didn;t want to shut the boat down from a very very enjoyable summer/fall crusing on the Bay. Now as I ready for offshore, doing a repower might truly be the best thing. I like the idea of all new, all matching, all working. So I will also install Fuel polishing. I'll post a detail of the entire project after complete. Keep the info flowing if you think it will be of help.... Everything thuis far has been trmendous. I thank you all.
 
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