Replacing Lifelines DIY--Stainless or Synthetic? [Master Thread]

[brianb00]

As I mentioned in some other places, we ended up with a suddenly cracking and rusting vinyl covered lifeline about two weeks ago. That created a more urgent replacement need than we'd expected so we decided to just have it done while we work on the other installations we already have under way.

We took Jeff Asbury's recommendation and called Seatek here in San Pedro. 4 or 5 workdays later we have the new swaged, bare SS lifelines installed and they look great ! The cash price was $560 installed, would have been a bit more if we'd used a credit card.

I think just the parts would have cost us more if we'd done it ourselves.





-Sven

Interesting. I just switched over to Dynema life lines after a fellow racer, on a start line, decided his boom would tuck nicely under my starboard lifeline. Apparently the swedge fittings were a bit weaker than the hull connections so the lifeline snapped. After inspection I too found the swedge fittings getting pretty rusty, so opted to replace all.

Regards,
Brian
Olson 34

 

[Matey]

Interesting. I just switched over to Dynema life lines after a fellow racer, on a start line, decided his boom would tuck nicely under my starboard lifeline. Apparently the swedge fittings were a bit weaker than the hull connections so the lifeline snapped. After inspection I too found the swedge fittings getting pretty rusty, so opted to replace all.

Regards,
Brian
Olson 34

Brian,

Any chance of a couple pictures ? I'm interested in doing likewise

Thanks, Greg

 

[brianb00]

Hi Greg, brickyard cove? My boat was there and ryc until 3 months ago .I will post a shot, boat is brisbane currently.

 

[Loren Beach]

all together now

Hope no one minds, but I combined the main life line threads.
I also hope that Brian posts up some pics.

LB

 

[Sven]

Hope no one minds, but I combined the main life line threads.

Sounds good to me.

In addition to the safety aspects I really like the all-SS look of the new lines.



-Sven

 

[brianb00]

Olson 34 life line using Dynema - requested photo

I have uploaded two shots that show the dynema install. I went up one diameter from the offshore min requirement because it has a much better feel . I am using PVC shroud covers, found at WM, as a chafe protection scheme. After a few weeks of sailing and some races I see no signs of chafe at any fittings. One thing that seems to happen is an initial stretch of the line when first installed. This may due to settling of the lashing at the stern terminal or actual line stretch. Either way I suggest you leave 12 to 18 inches from the final terminus for lashing and taking up slack. In my installation there are no gates as with stainless I have always had them taped closed to prevent accidental opening.

Brian

 

[Matey]

I have uploaded two shots that show the dynema install. I went up one diameter from the offshore min requirement because it has a much better feel . I am using PVC shroud covers, found at WM, as a chafe protection scheme. After a few weeks of sailing and some races I see no signs of chafe at any fittings. One thing that seems to happen is an initial stretch of the line when first installed. This may due to settling of the lashing at the stern terminal or actual line stretch. Either way I suggest you leave 12 to 18 inches from the final terminus for lashing and taking up slack. In my installation there are no gates as with stainless I have always had them taped closed to prevent accidental opening.

Brian

Thanks for the pictures Brian .. they look real good. After my autopilot and a new spin halyard I'm doing it

Regards, Greg

 

[steven]

Brian,

looks good. what did you use for the lashings? also Dyneema?

--Steve

 

[Stu Jackson]

Regarding load capacity of swaged terminals - the hand swaged joints are rated to "withstand a force of 2500 lbs." I'm pretty sure that much force would have carried away the stanchion already.

I couldn't agree more. I firmly believe that folks "depending" on "lifelines" to "save" them is bloody silly. "Lifelines" are an oxymoron. The stanchions would give way first due to the lever arm and the fact that they are only bolted in at the bottom. My stanchions gave way to some bozo who ran into us between two races a number of years ago. Bent like pretzels.

I only use my "lifelines" as a handhold for going forward between the forward end of the cabintop and the bow, knees bent. I make a loop with my fingers, like doing an "OK" on the line, which simply serves as point of reference, not to be used to depend on for strength or support.

My old coated lines will be replaced with uncoated lines and hand swages when I get around to it.

 

[Sven]

I firmly believe that folks "depending" on "lifelines" to "save" them is bloody silly.

It is hard to argue with a strawman argument.



-Sven

 

[brianb00]

Dependent on lifelines ?

In a recent race (mid April) , 25 miles off the SF Coast, one vessel was swept viciously across the deck by a large wave. Several stanchions let go and the life lines collapsed on deck. That said, all souls stayed aboard holding on to life lines and hitting lines on the leeward rail. There was another, much larger tragedy, in the same event, but that doesn't appear to involve lifeline failure. Stay clipped in !

I couldn't agree more. I firmly believe that folks "depending" on "lifelines" to "save" them is bloody silly. "Lifelines" are an oxymoron. The stanchions would give way first due to the lever arm and the fact that they are only bolted in at the bottom. My stanchions gave way to some bozo who ran into us between two races a number of years ago. Bent like pretzels.

I only use my "lifelines" as a handhold for going forward between the forward end of the cabintop and the bow, knees bent. I make a loop with my fingers, like doing an "OK" on the line, which simply serves as point of reference, not to be used to depend on for strength or support.

My old coated lines will be replaced with uncoated lines and hand swages when I get around to it.

 

[brianb00]

Hi Steven,

I used dyneema as well for the lashings. I have seen other materials used as well as dyneema. One pro rigged boat here on the bay has rigged their lines the same way as what I have shown.

Regards,

Brian

Brian,

looks good. what did you use for the lashings? also Dyneema?

--Steve

 

[exoduse35]

Not to hijack this thread but... I am considering running a second lifeline. The problem comes in, in that the stations are only made for one. Is there a preferred method of adding the second line? I am sure the best way is to remove them and have a second tube welded in but is there another way that is as good? Thanks in advance, Edd

 

[Loren Beach]

Not to hijack this thread but... I am considering running a second lifeline. The problem comes in, in that the stations are only made for one. Is there a preferred method of adding the second line? I am sure the best way is to remove them and have a second tube welded in but is there another way that is as good? Thanks in advance, Edd

I have seen quite a few boats, over the decades, with a SS line guide that slid down over the stanchion tube and seemed to be locked in place with a set screw. Not sure of source, but some searching should turn up a vendor.
Ask Garhauer, also. They seem to make and sell a lot of parts, including low-volume stuff that is not listed in their catalog.

Edit: Here's one link, but this particular vendor is very proud of their pricing.
http://schaeferhardware.com//detail.aspx?ID=916


LB

 

[McGinnis]

Not to beat a dead horse

I've recently taken off all the rails and stanchions on the boat with the intent of rebedding and putting in the New England SK-75 grey (wm#12357422). At $0.73/ft it came out to $146 for 200', more than enough for two levels of lines. Add in 4 Ronstan fixed bail snap shackles at $33.96 for the gates with proper splicing and I will have new lifelines for under $300. Using 1/4" SK-75 would put it around $360.

Brian- What's the breaking strength and size on the "O" rings you used?

 

[exoduse35]

Loren, They are "PROUD" aren't they? I think if I looked I could get a new set or weld tubes into the old ones for that... Thanks though, It did spark an idea i had not previously thought about to fix this problem.

 

[InSync]

Adding second set of lifelines

When we bought our 1974 Ericson 32 a couple of years ago the PO had installed new lifelines but they were single lifelines. I sourced a fitting that Loren describes - it slides over the stanchion and tightens with a set screw. Made by Sea Dog. Here's a link to their page: http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1658-lifeline-fittings Look at item #270530/31. I used Dyneema for the second lifelines as I needed a quick DIY fix at the time. we are now 2 years into them. After year 3 I plan to replace all with uncovered SS.

 

[brianb00]

Dyneema liness

When we bought our 1974 Ericson 32 a couple of years ago the PO had installed new lifelines but they were single lifelines. I sourced a fitting that Loren describes - it slides over the stanchion and tightens with a set screw. Made by Sea Dog. Here's a link to their page: http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1658-lifeline-fittings Look at item #270530/31. I used Dyneema for the second lifelines as I needed a quick DIY fix at the time. we are now 2 years into them. After year 3 I plan to replace all with uncovered SS.

Hi,

Is there a reason you are replacing, do you see chafe ? Or worried about UV breakdown ?

Regards,

Brian

 

[brianb00]

Strength of O Rings

I've recently taken off all the rails and stanchions on the boat with the intent of rebedding and putting in the New England SK-75 grey (wm#12357422). At $0.73/ft it came out to $146 for 200', more than enough for two levels of lines. Add in 4 Ronstan fixed bail snap shackles at $33.96 for the gates with proper splicing and I will have new lifelines for under $300. Using 1/4" SK-75 would put it around $360.

Brian- What's the breaking strength and size on the "O" rings you used?

I don't know the strength, but have since replaced with a thimble. When I started the project the lifeline was an emergency replacement after a swan 40 used their boom as a upper Olson lifeline tensile strength test method, while on the start line (he lost the protest). The O ring was an attempt to spread the load but in the end I wanted to increase the radius of curvurture for the dyneema, so the thimble was the better approach.

Brian

 

[InSync]

Replacing Dyneema

Brian, we do not see any chafe. The edges of the eyes on the Sea Dog stanchion fittings were nicely finished. We are more concerned with UV damage. Although I'm not sure why, we live in the Pacific Northwest!