Removing the cockpit teak side board

[dave.hackett]

I'd like to take off my teak side board thats in the cockpit so I can repair a split in the wood and refinish it indoors (1976 32-2).

Besides drilling out the plugs and removing the screws, what issues am I going to run into? Would I be better off to try and clamp it in place then to remove it?

See picture for the board I'm taking about...

Thanks
DaveH

 

[tenders]

I'd like to take off my teak side board thats in the cockpit so I can repair a split in the wood and refinish it indoors (1976 32-2).

Besides drilling out the plugs and removing the screws, what issues am I going to run into? Would I be better off to try and clamp it in place then to remove it?

See picture for the board I'm taking about...

Thanks
DaveH

I replaced mine ('69 #112) last season with StarBoard. The screws came out pretty easily; I believe there are 34 per side. Some are longer than others--try to keep those straight. The board was held on with caulk, which yielded without too much effort. After I removed it, looking at the amount of effort to refinish it and the wear and tear it had sustained over the years I was loathe to put the same old board back on again. You might want to make another one.

 

[Loren Beach]

You probably knew this, but...

Hi Dave,
I never became a mechanic when I used to *try* to repair my first or second car engine and transmissions.... but some advice from an experienced mechanic has helped me a lot in the many decades since.
Whether doing a cockpit project like yours or removing interior cabinetry or sole pieces like I have done on our boat, whenever you find fastenings with different sizes...

--> Cut out a piece of scrap cardboard in a scaled-down shape for the panel/piece that you are removing. Then mark on it where each fastener should be. Then use an awl and punch out each mark. As you remove each screw/bolt, poke it into the cardboard replica you made. Now you are set to put them all back later. If you throw 'em all into a box or bag, you may forget which ones went where.

Happy Restoring,

Loren in PDX

 

[jmoses]

Coaming boards

Dave,

I just completed my new boards last August on my 1972 E-35. The old boards were shot (cracked, thin from excusive sanding/acid washing, cupped, etc.). I took the old ones off and used them for templates on the new teak planks. I special ordered the planks @ 12' long x 14" wide x 13/16" thick (600.00 total three years ago). I used the old boards as templates and added about a 1/2 in height and a wider openings to the cubby holds.

Part of the problem was that the plywood in the cubby holds was rotten in a several places (be sure to check this when the boards are off). The rotten ply took some epoxy work (lots of injections) and two part primer and paint to fix. It all looks great now with the new boards. Also, my coamings did not have drains, so the water sat in their until it evaporated or I bailed it out. I have subsequently drilled drain holes in th efiberglas coaming boxes.

As for difficulties? there are a few:

1. The bungs were epoxied in place and did not always come out easy. If you are to reuse the boards, be VERY careful here.
2. Siezed nuts and bolts. There were about 6 - 8 bolts and about 5 or 6 self tapping screws per side. (I used a disc grinder on several to chop them off)
3. Cracking the dried out teak when removing (one plank was already cracked and also had prior repair).
4. No issue with the caulk as it was so dried out anyway.


As for refinishing, I used a three step process on the new planks:

1. Penetrating epoxy (such as Smith & Co which is very thin)
2. Numerous coats of Cetol lite (maybe 8 coats - it's easy when inside)
3. Three coats of Cetol Gloss (also when inside)

After installing, coat the sanded bungs with epoxy, coat with Cetol Lite, then coat the entire coamings with gloss. Renew Gloss once a year.

Godd luck,

John Moses

 

[gareth harris]

Just to confuse the issue further, I had 9 screws in mine, all had acorn nuts on the back (some of which I had to grind off).

Finding replacement pieces of teak that size is very hard to do (John managed it, but he routinely manages to do things that stump the rest of us). Mine were in fine condition to reuse, except that the first one I removed had some damaged screw holes from before I figured out how the nuts were attached.

I have pictures of the screw locations, but I am just back from overseas, and it may take me a while to get my digital camera working on my new computer - other Ericson owners have been waiting two years now (sorry, if you are reading this).

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972

 

[ChrisS]

Dave--

I've got the same job on my to do list. Keep us posted on your progress, and good luck.

 

[dave.hackett]

It's still too cold to give this project much thought yet but I will keep the thread updated with my progress once the snow melts.

John's reply made me think though. Where is the water that collects in the cubby holes suppose to go? The previous owner glassed mine so its not much of an issue, however I never use them since everything just gets wet.

Have others installed some sort of drainage from the cubby holes?

DaveH

 

[gareth harris]

Where is the water that collects in the cubby holes suppose to go?

It drains into the deck core - it is one of the design flaws in certain versions of Ericson.

I have thought of installing drains into the lowest spots of the cubby holes, where the water collects, to drain via 1/2" hose to the cockpit. However, that would also provide an extra spot for water to enter the boat, and now that I need all new coring, I will use a material less troubled by water than plywood, and glass it in around the edges.

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972

 

[tenders]

The lack of drainage and the downward, outboard cant of the coaming box base is a poor design, plain and simple. After scraping out delaminated plywood, letting it dry THOROUGHLY, and building the area back up with epoxy--not that hard of a job, really--I made covers for my coaming boxes out of Starboard.

The cover stays on with a lip which rests on top of the coaming. Two eyestraps on the fore and aft parts of the lip terminate a piece of bungee cord, which snaps around the genoa cleats, holding it all in place. Take 'em off when you go sailing -- works great.

A couple of snaps and a piece of Sunbrella would probably accomplish the same, but I don't like to attach snaps to the boat.