Removing old boat name

[movingcastle]

Hi all,

I am trying to remove an old boat name off the hull of our new-to-me 1983 Ericson 35-3. This is actually 2 or 3 names ago for this particular boat, and a faded version of the name remains on both the port and starboard quarters. Photos attached.

It's not paint—at least, I don't think it is. I thought it was just dirt/glue/crap from old sticker boat lettering.

There are some small pieces of decal detritus (new band name!) that I was able to easily remove using small amounts of acetone. Unfortunately this did not make a dent on the gray lettering. When I feel the letters they are raised (barely perceptibly) to the touch.

Any ideas on what it might be, or how it might be removed? Should we just try EZ Oven cleaner to see what happens? Pay someone?

This is my first post but I've been poking my head in here every once in a while—happy to finally say hello!

Thanks,
Cole

 

[Loren Beach]

When I removed the prior hailing port from our transom, the (slightly) raised original gel coat underneath the lettering remained visible for about 5 years. Mostly if you looked at it sideways in a flat light.
UV erodes the gel coat surface, except under the former name where the surface was protected. Same for a large font boat name on each flank of our boat. The name was painted on and it took a lot of acetone and old rags to remove it. Wear protectives gloves and use a respirator mask.

I could imagine power buffing it out, but am leary of removing any get coat thickness. Others may have ideas if your leftover 'shadow' is just glue residue.

 

[Christian Williams]

As Loren says, if it's raised gelcoat under old letters (not just old glue) you'll need new tactics.

The goal is to reduce the raised letters to the level of the existing gelcoat, which has been worn down by UV and atmosphere. I had to have my transom sanded and painted with Awlgrip because the former owner had a huge vinyl coat of arms there which left a vast shadow.

But on the hull I'd attack with compound on a polisher to knock down the shadows, followed by polish. I'd be locally aggressive, but watching nervously for any sign of "darkening," which would indicate the layer of gelcoat has been breached. There's no return from gelcoat sanded through to the blackness below.

 

[goldenstate]

Easy Off (for ovens)

Removing a painted boat name

sailboatrefit.com

embedded YT video is probably more helpful than my post.

 

[movingcastle]

Thanks all for the help. You've given me the keys to more-educated Googling, and I've been able to find some resources. Makes perfect sense that the UV-protected Gelcoat would be raised.

Christian, you're referring to something like the 3M Cutting Compound, correct? I will tread lightly...

 

[patrscoe]

Have you tried wet sanding starting with 800 and end with 1500?

 

[Prairie Schooner]

We had the same problem on our transom. I used 800 > 1500, being observant and careful. I'm a big believer in using a backup board. That way you mostly just sand off the high spots. If you go at it with a buffer and compound first, you're more likely to abrade the low whiter spots too. It would help if the block approximated the curve of the hull shape. I would get some chunks of insulation foam. Lay a piece of ~100 grit sandpaper on the hull facing out. Then rub the foam block on the sandpaper to take on the curve of the hull. You might want to make several blocks for sanding vertically, horizontally, and different sections. The foam is waterproof. Other block materials would work.
Of course, there are a number of ways to tackle this. You'll get a sense of what feels right for you.

 

[Christian Williams]

Yes, I think 800-1500 by hand is better than a machine.

 

[Mr. Scarlett]

The advice against machines for this is spot on. If it were the transom a regular 1/4 sheet block would be enough. These will do a better job on that part of the hull.