Removing cabinet under sink to install engine(E-32)
- Thread starter Steve A
- Start date
Strictly in the "FWIW" dept.... both our prior boat and this one have some common construction eatures in their basic wood cabinet and most corners where a 90 degree piece of wood meets another wood surface.
One the hidden (back) side there is a cleat. Sort of a square piece of wood about an inch by an inch... maybe a bit larger, and it runs down the whole joint.
The carpenter would then countersink holes in that piece on two sides and inset screws into each back side of the face material. You will not see these from the front or finish side. Sometimes in a high stress area screws will be driven from the front and the holes plugged.
I have found this method used even in hidden places way back in the lazarette areas in the stern sections where plywood panels met.
This is probably old hat to trained cabinet makers, but I found it interesting and i liked the inherent strength in the joint.
The EY shop would have been great fun to visit back in the day....
:nerd:
Loren
One the hidden (back) side there is a cleat. Sort of a square piece of wood about an inch by an inch... maybe a bit larger, and it runs down the whole joint.
The carpenter would then countersink holes in that piece on two sides and inset screws into each back side of the face material. You will not see these from the front or finish side. Sometimes in a high stress area screws will be driven from the front and the holes plugged.
I have found this method used even in hidden places way back in the lazarette areas in the stern sections where plywood panels met.
This is probably old hat to trained cabinet makers, but I found it interesting and i liked the inherent strength in the joint.
The EY shop would have been great fun to visit back in the day....
:nerd:
Loren
bradh
Member II
Just was there, and just did that.....
Steve,
I just went through this conundrum myself. I ended up staying with the 3/4" shaft after talking to Moyer and a couple of people on their forum. It sounds as if the 3/4" shaft being undersized may not be based on much data; more lore than fact (I'm an engineer and ran some numbers too and it does not come back as being undersized at least for my configuration). FYI - I needed to change my shaft for a bad key way (the wrong size key was used).
As far as hardware:
As far as labor:
My vote: stick with the 3/4" and go get a split coupling. If you are doing the engine, you have to do alignment and you should do the cutlass too. Go get one of the split couplings and repack the current stuffing box (is it 3/4"?).
Most of my hardware came from here: www.deepblueyachtsupply.com
Brad
Steve,
I just went through this conundrum myself. I ended up staying with the 3/4" shaft after talking to Moyer and a couple of people on their forum. It sounds as if the 3/4" shaft being undersized may not be based on much data; more lore than fact (I'm an engineer and ran some numbers too and it does not come back as being undersized at least for my configuration). FYI - I needed to change my shaft for a bad key way (the wrong size key was used).
As far as hardware:
- If you upsize you will need to change the stuffing box (?), prop, cutlass, and possibly the strut (I did not need to change the strut if I went to a 7/8" because they make a 7/8" ID, 1.25" OD cutlass). You have a 1" coupler, but as Afrakes points out, you may not be able to get a 1" shaft cutlass into your strut.
- If you stay at 3/4", it's just the cutlass, a new (split) coupler, and repack the stuffing box.
As far as labor:
- If you don't have to do the strut.... I think it is a wash on labor as the toughest items have to be done for both. The toughest things are getting the shaft out of the old coupling (was easy for me because on the bad key and not a factor for you), getting the cutlass out can be tricky (but doable with patience), getting the new cutlass in (fairly straight forward with a home made tool), getting the shaft into the coupling (two person job and it takes some work if you get a single piece coupling), and then alignment.
My vote: stick with the 3/4" and go get a split coupling. If you are doing the engine, you have to do alignment and you should do the cutlass too. Go get one of the split couplings and repack the current stuffing box (is it 3/4"?).
Most of my hardware came from here: www.deepblueyachtsupply.com
Brad
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