Rebedding compounds-advice?
- Thread starter jkm
- Start date
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- Tags
- compoundsadvice rebedding
I rebedded all of my stanchions and pulpits this year and went with clear Boatlife "LifeSeal". I have previously used the black version of this to rebed our lexan fixed ports a decade ago, with never a leak since.
Best,
Loren
Best,
Loren
Nigel Barron
Notorious Iconoclast
I use Sikka Flex for just about everything. It is easy to work with, and cleans up pretty easy with stove fuel.
NateHanson
Sustaining Member
Any polysulfide compound should work. Cleans up well, lasts, and is removable without cutting a hole in the deck, for the next time you have to take off the stanchions.
NateHanson
Sustaining Member
I'm pretty sure I've gotten sikaflex at Hamilton Marine (Portland would be your closest location), and you should be going there anyways, because the prices are about 25% lower across the board, compared to West Marine.
I wouldn't personally use 4200 (or any polyurethane sealant/adhesive) for rebedding stuff, because it's more of an adhesive than a sealant in my mind, and would not be easy to remove, if that was necessary down the road.
Rebedding Stanchions?
I concur with Nate - a polysulfide will stop the leak and permit you to open the joint again whenever you want/need to. You really want to take the time to match the material to the job - and stanchions need to be sealed, but need to be removable in the future.
Do not, under any circumstance use an agent that is more of a permanent adhesive. See the following thread if you need convincing:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=3121
Attached is a nice article from Cruising World Magazine on rebedding stanchions...
Do us a favor - take lots of images, and we'll put your project up on the site for others to see!
//sse
I concur with Nate - a polysulfide will stop the leak and permit you to open the joint again whenever you want/need to. You really want to take the time to match the material to the job - and stanchions need to be sealed, but need to be removable in the future.
Do not, under any circumstance use an agent that is more of a permanent adhesive. See the following thread if you need convincing:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=3121
Attached is a nice article from Cruising World Magazine on rebedding stanchions...
Do us a favor - take lots of images, and we'll put your project up on the site for others to see!
//sse
Adhesion and... the Future
One factor to keep in mind when working with SS stanchions is that the sometimes-feared adhesive property of 3M 5200 is kind of a non-issue. When you (or your heirs...) rebeds them again in 15+ years they can soften up whatever wonder goo that you used with a hair dryer or heat gun set on low.
We discovered this, by neccessity, when painfully prying up our old aluminum alloy fore hatch frame. After futile efforts with every putty knife we owned or could borrow, it turned out that heat was the answer...
Just another $.01 worth.
Loren
One factor to keep in mind when working with SS stanchions is that the sometimes-feared adhesive property of 3M 5200 is kind of a non-issue. When you (or your heirs...) rebeds them again in 15+ years they can soften up whatever wonder goo that you used with a hair dryer or heat gun set on low.
We discovered this, by neccessity, when painfully prying up our old aluminum alloy fore hatch frame. After futile efforts with every putty knife we owned or could borrow, it turned out that heat was the answer...
Just another $.01 worth.
Loren