Paint / Bottom work complete and then some..

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
Bottom work was completed today and boat back on the water minus the mast / rig which I’m having all standing rigging ( rod ), furler and much of the mast hardware replaced.

The hull work including all materials and crane was about 5k . This included sanding the old paint off , filling blisters and any imperfections . For this price , I also had the prop wire wheeled and the cutlass bearing replaced . ( does that seem expensive? ) The engine was much smoother on my return to the home slip, no doubt due to the wobbly cutlass bearing .

I am a little nervous about the raw water pump ( engine ) which seems to take time to prime and some oil seems to come out of the outlet when it first fires. I’m thinking maybe the shaft seal is leaking oil from the crankcase . Is that possible?
 

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K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
beautiful boat!
Thank You . I fell in love with the late 70’s IOR style boats and this was the closest I could find in an Ericson that was restorable . Most of the others are in the grave or require mega work . .
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
[raw water pump] is leaking oil from the crankcase . Is that possible?

Pretty common when a raw water pump gets old. Needs a new seal. There's a rebuild kit, although I chose to just buy a new Oberdorfer.

Here's one of several threads on the topic

 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
[raw water pump] is leaking oil from the crankcase . Is that possible?

Pretty common when a raw water pump gets old. Needs a new seal. There's a rebuild kit, although I chose to just buy a new Oberdorfer.

Here's one of several threads on the topic

I think I will order a new pump . Having replaced the impeller and removed the shaft , i think this is a project I can do myself. The old pump also seems to take time to prime and I think the impeller is not getting a good seal in the pump housing and cover plate. Fortunately last time the pump failed, I could sail the boat close to the slip and just do a short engine run without overheating, but that might always be possible. ( and jib sailing into my slip in Sausalito is a dicey operation best , especially in typical windy conditions. I’ve done it but my slip neighbors got very nervous)
 
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Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
( and jib sailing into my slip in Sausalito is a dicey operation best , especially in typical windy conditions. I’ve done it but my slip neighbors got very nervous)
At my marina, at any rate, sailing in and out of the slip is against the rules and would be a good way to get kicked out. Maybe they'd cut some slack in an emergency.
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
I understand the concern, but I just came back from a trip to the Gulf islands with a stop in Port Townsend's Port Hudson's marina. It has a very different vibe to it where quite a few boats don't even have auxiliary power. There's even a company that offers tours where they frequently sail in and out of the slip. It's interesting to see the differences in marinas.

Thankfully, Everett has a long guest dock at the entrance where it's easy to sail into with the help of current and prevailing winds. I've had to use it a few times while I was going through the growing pains of learning about ethanol gas in carbureted outboards.

$5k for the bottom work you listed doesn't sound too far out of the norm, especially where you are located. The boat looks great and will provide some piece of mind with the cutlass and new rig.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
[pump replacement] this is a project I can do myself

Absolutely. Consider the paper gasket, some say it doesn't come with the pump and needs to be ordered separately.
 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
At my marina, at any rate, sailing in and out of the slip is against the rules and would be a good way to get kicked out. Maybe they'd cut some slack in an emergency.
It is in our marina too , but if I was stuck in a bad spot and couldn’t get an anchor out ,I would sail it in with the jib ( reefed ) and I think it’s a good skill to have in an emergency.
 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
Looks great! 5k seems reasonable especially including the cutlass bearing replacement.
The bearing part itself was around 100.00 I believe. They charged about 2 hours labor to replace it . They told me it was either going to be 2 hours or 8 hours , depending on whether they would need to remove the prop shaft . In my case , they didn’t have to . I’m happy with the smoother engine run . I thought it was all engine mount but the loose cutlass bearing contributed to a lot of the vibration.
 
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