Oil Change Process

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
What is the process for changing the oil on a Universal M18?
There appears to be a hose attached to the sump. Is it just a matter of attaching a vacuum pump of some sort to that hose?

What about changing transmission fluid?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Try some searching on this site. Lots (!) of threads on engine and trans. oil changes. Some with photos.

I run the pick-up tube down thru the Universal pan hose all the way to the bottom, to the banjo fitting. My vacuum slurper gets out all four quarts from my M25XP with no problem.
Your trans, probably a Hurth, is more "challenging."
Check your manual; ours holds 10 oz of ATF.

Cheers,
Loren
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
What is the process for changing the oil on a Universal M18?
There appears to be a hose attached to the sump. Is it just a matter of attaching a vacuum pump of some sort to that hose?

What about changing transmission fluid?


If you are one of the lucky ones to have a hose attached to the center of the oil sump, then indeed all you have to do is warm up the engine, attach a pump to that hose and away you go. We had one on our E38 and it made the job a breeze. I bought some type of 12V oil change pump at West Marine for $20 or so, and scrounged up some adapters so I could attach the output of the engine sump hose to the inlet of the pump.
 

newgringo

Member III
I use an old 2 gallon refrigerant bottle fitted with a suction hose and ball valve. Before I go to change oil I evacuate the bottle down to 25 inches or so, connect to the engine oil change hose, crack the valve and let er suck the oil out. Use same setup with different suction hoses for my Hurth tranny. Very clean and no messy pump full of black oil. Hey, some new marine engines come with a built in oil change pump. Kind of costly solution. But, just to dream a little. Don't think I can sell the wife on this one.
 

EGregerson

Member III
oil

My M 25 had a hose connected to the bottom of the oil pan probably similar to yours; I used a drill attachement (older Jabsco); worked fine. I now have the Jabsco Little Pal ; pumps like a champ. In researching these, I think the more expensive ones can handle hot oil. Happy boating!
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Thanks.

I tried doing a search on "oil" and "oil change" before posting this thread. For the word "oil" all it returned was "No Matches Found." For the words "oil change" it returned just about every thread ever posted that contained the word "change."

:(
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Oil Changing

I have not yet been able to make this search engine do phrases, either.
:rolleyes:
It's probably just me!

In this situation, knowing that some words are quite specific to changing oil, I put in "tempo" for the company that made the vacumm changers and got better hits.
Like:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=3403&referrerid=28

and

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=2095&referrerid=28

and

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=5977&referrerid=28

Cheers,
Loren
 

chaco

Member III
Beer Can Pump

I lilke the Quik-Drain 12V Oil Removal Pump. Drained the old M-30 in a minute
or so. Permanently installed for use when you need it. No hauling around and
storing MESSY oil removal equipment. Just pump er' in to the Recycle Jug...
no muss..... no fuss :nerd: Look around and purchase online. NOT from WM !
Now I will have to plug the Beta Marine Engine with BuiltIn Manual Pump :)

Happy Oil Change :egrin: :egrin:
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Crankcase draining method.

All, Every one of the above methods outlined is good appears to work for the users. I have a similar system fitted to my Yanmar 3GMF. At the time I had the engine rebuilt, I asked the mechanic drill out the center of the aft, starboard donut foot on the bottom of the crankcase that he threaded a 1/2" brass street elbow into. He added a brass barb to the female end to which he clamped an oil resistant length of hose. After the was replaced in the boat, I installed an OP-6 Reverso oil pump, http://www.reversopumps.com/impeller_pumps.php to the engine room bulkhead. I have a threaded cap on the the discharge end and stow that length to a modified Nylon cable clamp adjacent to the pump. The neat thing about this pump is that it'll drain the crankcase in a matter of seconds and with a flip of the same switch, will deliver new oil back to the crankcase just as quickly. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 

Gary Peterson

Marine Guy
Glyn,
Next time you change oil, my opinion would be to change the Brass fittings to Stainless steel. Much stronger. It would be quite expensive if the street "El" cracked.
 
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Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Brass vs. stainless steel.

Gary, Good point well taken. I'll chase a stainless steel elbow down and swap them out. That said, it must have been close to 10 years that the brass one has been in place but a failure in the brass could happen any time I suppose. Thanks for the tip, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Banjo Pix

While cleaning out our camera this morning looking for another bunch of boat photos...
I found a couple of shots of the Universal sump banjo fitting that I put a new hose on last year.
As noted by others here this is available as a parts kit from Universal dealers, if your engine does not already have it installed.
Loren
 

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