New windlass and chain ... great !

[Sven]

I can't remember who it was that suggested that the hole between the chain locker and the first compartment under the v-berth could be enlarged to allow the chain to be distributed aft ? I searched but came up empty handed ... anyway, many thanks !

After about a month of actual work we now have the brand new Maxwell 1500 lb windlass installed. The old 3/8" BBB chain has also been replaced with 300' of 5/16 HT chain. We still have the 66 lb claw anchor.

We also enlarged the hole from the chain locker into the forward compartment under the v-berth so the last 200' of chain can be helped in there for better weight distribution.

The new setup is outstanding !

The old chain put the bow down almost 3" and while Senta still sailed very nicely we probably lost 1/2 knot due to the weight.

With the new setup the bow is only down only an inch or so and we have a truly cruise-capable ground tackle setup.

Can't wait to try it out !!



-Sven

 

[Greg Ross]

Shifting the chain locker one space aft.

Sven,
I may be the the individual who discussed this concept, I've been developing this idea for a number of months. I recently secured an Ideal Windlass with chain wildcat to replace a 12v capstan I've had on the boat for about 5 years. Included below is an image of the new-to-me Windlass as it currently sits at Glyns' in Santa Monica, I'll be collecting it from there late next month. The first image is the concept I came up with to resolve a couple of issues concerning putting a load of chain aboard.
I've purchased a 1/2 barrel/ 275' of 5/16" chain and was convinced the boat would behave much better with that chain somewhat further aft and stowed lower in the hull. From the chain pipe on deck I'll have plastic tube leading directly to the next space aft beneath the V-berth. This arrangement has a distinct side benifit, my back-up rope rode will still occupy that exisitng separate rope locker. Sketch attached represents how I see this arrangement being set up.
Last details to address is rinsing/ washing down the chain. Potential is to have a spray nozzle rigged beside the forward chain roller. Trigger a pump (a second relay) from the same foot switch that runs the windlass and haul anchor. Secondary consideration to that is establishing some means of handling drainage from this new chain locker further aft. Still working on details for that.

 

[Sven]

Sven,
I may be the the individual who discussed this concept, I've been developing this idea for a number of months.

It was someone with a 39B I think but I've looked at your suggestions too ! So thanks. Glyn had also sent me a picture of an Independence 31 that had a pipe set-up, that one is in Ireland.

At one point I'd considered putting some kind of motor to help pull the chain back but it is pretty obvious from the v-berth extension that it wouldn't be needed if the pipe was even somewhat smooth. As Maxwell's instructions note, the pipe should be non-metallic (for corrosion reasons) and you may need to put a bell or funnel shape at the lower end.

If we weren't already incredibly pleased with how the bow has lifted out of the water with the new arrangement I'd seriously consider the pipe idea.



-Sven

 

[Mike Tinder]

Chain Locker Drain

Sven,

Glad to see that you went with the set up I have for storing chain, it is an absolutely beautiful set up we have getting the chain and so much of it below the water line, we are so lucky with our anchor chain set up. I attached a 1" hose to the aft bulkhead of the cubby hole that is under the v-berth. It is completley sealed in to the small bulkhead in the cubby hole. I then ran this new chain locker drain hose under my sewer holding tank, then to the bilge area by the mast. That is where I attached the chain locker hose to my shower drain hose. Just put in a tee. My shower drain and chain locker drain both drain in the deepest part of the bilge, which is under the engine. All other bilge areas stay completely dry.

I have a anchor wash down system to install now, so now when I put that wet chain away it drains with ease, all that water just heads aft to be pumped overboard. We have no other way on our 39B to get rid of water out of a chain locker that is below the water line of the vessel.

No way am I installing a pump in the chain locker, more wire runs and maintenance, one hose and problem solved.

It is 56" from the lowest part of our bilge to the cabin sole. I turned off the bilge pump one day before my wife took her shower. That deep bilge area holds a lot of water, so much that it did not over flow into the other bilge areas after her shower.

Mike
E-39B
Port of Brownsville, WA

 

[Sven]

Hi Mike,

I have a anchor wash down system to install now

Which washdown system did you get ?

We installed the through-hull for a washdown pump (and water maker) but haven't picked a pump yet.

Thanks,



-Sven

 

[Mike Tinder]

Washdown pump

Sven,

I will have to pull it out of the locker I have on my pier and check the name. I still have to make a seperate purchase for the wash down hose/nozzle. I want the one that will plug into a socket on the deck. I saw them on line but cannot remember where.

Mike

 

[Mike Tinder]

Anchor wash down pump

Sven,

We bought a Jabsco pump, nothing fancy, says 5.0 on the outside so I think that is a fare amount of water and water pressure. I will fiberglass in a small shelf in the chain locker this spring. That is what I will mount the pump on. I am going to put the shelf about a foot down from the top of the locker and put it on the port side, my hole for the chain is more to the starboard. Also going to put a couple of other shelves in that chain locker. The damn thing is so big and empty even with the chain in there.

Anyway I carry spare hoses for everything on the engine, gasket material, toilet parts. I am thinking this is where I will put these things. Vacuum seal them and put them in the chain locker. They are light weight and I have a lot. Figure that would be my best access for an emergency without digging through a locker.

 

[Lucky Dog]

Sven,How much space is needed for your chain? I really like the reaction a 1/2 knot increase by moving the weight aft.Mark

 

[Sven]

Sven,How much space is needed for your chain? I really like the reaction a 1/2 knot increase by moving the weight aft.Mark

We could probably fit almost all 300' in the first space under the v-berth if we dropped it from straight above instead of through the hole into the chainlocker. With a little bit of help more than 100' slipped in from the chain locker.

I think most of the improvement came from switching from 3/8" BBB to 5/16" HT. I think that saved 100# or 25%.



-Sven

 

[Lucky Dog]

Do you know how long it takes to bring up 300 feet and the amps used. I suspect the advertised specs are optimistic.Mark

 

[Sven]

Do you know how long it takes to bring up 300 feet and the amps used. I suspect the advertised specs are optimistic.Mark

With the given specs and no load it would be 5 minutes at 20 A or 1.7 Ah. Since the windlass draws up to 1200 W that would be a max of 100 A running under load (not including momentary stall spikes up to 200 A). I don't know how much the windlass slows down under load but let's say it is as much as 50%. So, integrating from 100 A to 20 A (~60 A) over 7.5 minutes gives 7.5 Ah.

But those are just best guesses based on the info I have.


-Sven

 

[Lucky Dog]

Last question...s Where is the battery and is it dedicated to the windlass?

 

[Sven]

Last question...s Where is the battery and is it dedicated to the windlass?

Didn't install a dedicated battery after all. Wired to the 400+ Ah house bank about 30' aft of the windlass using 1/0 cabling. Pulling the cable was a pain with too many ugly holes but once we finish securing the cabling better and protecting it better from shifting loads it should be just about perfect.

In retrospect I wish the boat had a fused 2/0 bus running the length of the boat with branches to separately fused bus bars as needed, instead of the individual wires all over the place, but I'm not about to redo it



-Sven

 

[Greg Ross]

Operation of a windlass

From what I've read and been told over the past few years you don't operate the windlass from the Batteries alone. Rather, you would have your engine running providing direct topping up to the Batteries plus motoring ahead to slacken the load. The windlass is expected to hoist the chain only and does not see the loads of wind and (water) current.
Stands to reason, when you're coming off anchor you would be motoring anyway as you would from a mooring.

 

[Sven]

The windlass is expected to hoist the chain only and does not see the loads of wind and (water) current.

Correct.



-Sven

 

[Mike Tinder]

Lucky Dog,

I have a two batteries just aft of the engine. One for starting the engine, one for the windlass. The windlass breaker is also right next to the battery. I ran cable like Sevn did. It works like a charm. House batteries are a different bank.

Mike Tinder
s/v Sea Maid
E-39B

 

[rwthomas1]

From what I've read and been told over the past few years you don't operate the windlass from the Batteries alone. Rather, you would have your engine running providing direct topping up to the Batteries plus motoring ahead to slacken the load. The windlass is expected to hoist the chain only and does not see the loads of wind and (water) current.
Stands to reason, when you're coming off anchor you would be motoring anyway as you would from a mooring.

Provided the alternator is up to the task, there should be very little impact on the battery bank. An added plus is the alternator is producing 14.4volts if it is running wide open, which it likely is if it is "seeing" a load like a windlass in operation..... More volts means less amps right? Easier on the wiring and the windlass motor.

RT