New masthead sheaves for Ericson 29

simdim

Member II
Folks,
While the mast is down I am installing mast step rigging plate and replacing halyards from wire to ropes. I know that this had been asked and answered, however here it goes again:

Original sheaves in the mast box are OD 2 3/4 with ID 3/8 and are in a bad shape. Each halyard is using two sheaves and feels like one too many to me.
I had surveyed available sheaves and the best fit is Garhauer 27MH - it is smaller 2" vs 2 3/4" however it is the same ID. Going with smaller sheaves should allow me to go with cheaper 3/8" XLE rope insted of 5/16 Spectra from Cajun Trading(Thanks to Rhynie for the tip).
Is there a better solution? Should I try to move to single sheave configuration?
 

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Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Why not double your halyard possibilities?

The Garhauer sheaves should be fine for that application. They make a great set of products.

Is the area below the sheaves welded shut or open into the top of the mast?

If it is open, why not convert to interanal instead of external halyards while you have the mast down. This way you have single sheave possibilities of 4 halyards.

You also have 1/2 the possibility of skying a halyard provided you tie a stopper knot into the end of the dead end, you have a way to protect the halyards from UV a lot better by using a messenger line. I can't think of any negatives with going internal.

Guy
:)
 

simdim

Member II
Guy,
Thank you for the idea - sounds like the way to go. I am not 100% sure - forgot to check last time I was balancing on the ladder, but i think the mast top is not welded shut. If any of E29 owners can chime in - it will save me a 2 hr trip to the yard.
Lets assume I can drop halyards down:
Do I just install (cut in) something like Garhauer [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Mast Exit Blocks[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]EB-2 (http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=69) on both sides of the mast?
Right now i am not ready to move all my lines aft and was planning to do in 2 steps - change halyards and install mast step plate and later this summer put in turn blocks deck organizers etc. If I put halyards inside now - can I put exit blocks not at the base but higher so i can use existing mast mounted winch?

[/FONT]
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
Dont need the exit blocks just cut a slot and use a schaefer SS exit plate. Make sure holes all have rounded corners not squares. Try http://www.zephyrwerks.com/ for good custom sheaves at a great price. Nothing personal but I have never had good experience with Garhauer stuff although many others have.
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
The shaefer exit plates

The Shaefer exit plates are generally a fine solution and probably what I would recommend as well.

I am not crazy about the garhauer mast exit blocks because of the square nature of the hole that has to be cut in the mast to install them, (Square holes are a no no on spars).

Garhauer Roller Bearing Sheaves in the top are an amazing addition to the whole situation, and one that I have installed on a number of boats and recommend heartily. Raising and lower sails are a lot easier if you eliminate friction and nothing beats bearings for that purpose.

I would not bother to run everything aft. Raising and reefing from the mast is a fine place to do it on your boat. You are going to add significant friction running everything aft, add a lot more holes to the boat etc. Have to move winches install winches, it is a huge mess of a project that few people are happy with once they do it. Besides you are still going to have to go forward to reef, so it really only solves at most 1/2 of the problem.

So the first step is to make everything function well from the mast, and I suspect that you will find that you don't need to move it aft at all.

Even if the top of the mast is welded closed that are some solutions that are not all that expensive to the problem that work well. Getting 4 internal halyards instead of two external ones is a big help for boat handling and ease of use.

Guy
:)
 

simdim

Member II
Guy,
As always thank you for insight!
My launch day is getting close (4/29) and my decision making is getting more complicated... So I decided to go with the middle road solution.
The opening on the top of the mast consists of two 1.5" holes and they will require some sort of sleeves to alleviate chafing, so i will keep (for now) outside the mast two sheaves halyard design. Will re drill 3/8" shaft holes on the box to 1/2" to accommodate Garhauer 30MH sheaves. Originally I was planning to go with 2" sheaves but with sheave width of 3/8" it might not be wide enough to accomodate 3/8" rope. Also since I have 2 spare small winches I will mount one on the mast to compliment the one that is already there and will think long and hard about moving lines aft - maybe all i need is 2 winches on the mast and 1 by the companionway. But that can wait till summer.

Cheers,
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Wait with the drill..

If you call Garhauer they will make the sheaves for you with a 3/8 axel.

That way you don't have to drill anything....

Guy
:)
 

simdim

Member II
Guy,
I will definitely talk to them! Couple of questions remain:
1. Looks like i will have to put all wiring in conduit (as other thread suggests)
2. What do I use at the mast top to protect rope from making contact with opening in the bottom of the sheave box?
3. How far from the mast step do I need to exit?
4. Should I install 4 exit plates even if 2 will stay empty for now?
5. Is putting second winch on the mast a good idea?

Sorry for so many basic questions - we all have to start somewhere :)
 

SASSY

Member II
Masthead sheaves

I just ordered 4 custom masthead sheaves from Garhauer. They will take three to four weeks to produce. They were a little more expensive than there standard production shivs but not bad. My old shivs were were finished, it was like pulling the halyard over sandpaper.
good Luck
 

larossa

Member II
Mast replacement sheaves for E31 C

Even if the top of the mast is welded closed that are some solutions that are not all that expensive to the problem that work well. Getting 4 internal halyards instead of two external ones is a big help for boat handling and ease of use.

Guy
:)[/QUOTE]

Guy,

I saw this thread and am in the process of replacing my sheaves for my E31 C. I have external halyards with the mast head welded shut on the top. I would love to go with internal halyards. You had mentioned in a previous thread that there are some solutions for this type of mast. I was wondering if you could share them. The problem I see to going internal for a welded shut mast is access to the inside of the mast to run the halyard down inside. I'm not sure how you would be able to remove the metal with the mast head in the way. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

thanks,

Brian

E 31C Hull #2
 

Randy Rutledge

Sustaining Member
Make an L shaped template to determine the proper place to cut the hole in the plate on the top of the mast. You want the hole to be in line with the halyard when it comes off the sheave. Be sure the hole is faired smooth to prevent chafe.
The top plate on the E-29 T was about ¼’’ thick; I drilled a hole in the top of the mast head to have access to drill the holes for the halyards. I drilled a hole for each halyard and then used a die grinder with a metal bur to cut out the center between the holes on each end of the mast head.
I ran halyards back to the cockpit, On the 29 I paced the rope clutches at the back of the carriage top and use the back set of Jib winches in the cockpit. The line deflection is within specks for the clutches and this saved weight and MONEY.
 

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