Martek Folding Prop for E 38-200

[ted_reshetiloff]

Okay I know the prop thing has been beaten to death on this site but... I am considering getting a martek folding prop and want to know if anyone would strongly recomend against it. I need a new prop as the one on the boat is the wrong size. (3 blade 16x12) I can't quite belly up to the cost of a new feathering prop. I was looking for a decent used fixed 2 blade 16x10-11 but have not been able to find one. I can get a decent used 2 blade martek folder 16x10x1 for $100 in town at Bacons. Question is how bad will the folder be under power and in reverse? Would I be best to keep looking for the fixed 2 blade 16x10? And lastly if the 3 blade 16x12 is too much pitch, which it appears to be, by going to a 2 blade do I need to change my pitch any? Said another way, I believe I should have a 16x10.5 3 blade feathering prop. Would I get similar results with a 2 blade of the same spec, or should I maybe try for a 16x12 since I am losing a blade by going from 3 to 2?

Thanks,

Ted Reshetiloff
1989 E 38-200
Currently named Last Mango, new name TBA...

 

[Loren Beach]

"to Fold or Not to Fold..."

I would first call Martec and chat with them about your particular Ericson and engine and present pitch.... and etc.

They have always been very helpful when I called up.
In my limited experience, the folding props will give the best performance (i.e. least drag, by far) for sailing. The down side is reverse power. Ya gotta rev the engine really high to bring the boat to a halt. Backing up in a tight moorage situation is not as good as with a fixed prop, IMO.

The feathering props are the "bee's knees" for reverse power, if I may say so.

I agree that the cost of a featherer is more daunting, but ask them if they have an specials on a feathering two blade... heck, asking's free....

Best of luck,

Loren in PDX
Olson 34, Universal M25XP, Martec 2-blade feathering prop

 

[u079721]

My experience with Rag Doll

Ted,

The 1989 E-38 came with a fixed two blade 16x13, and a two blade 16x12 would probably be OK. With three blades you need to drop the pitch down to about 10" tops. (That was our experience adjusting the pitch on our three blade Max prop.) A two blade folder at 16x10 would be WAY underpropped, but whether it would work would depend on how you use it. I ended up motoring a lot (more than I care to admit) and needed performance, as I sometimes had 200 miles to go non-stop. But if you only need the prop for a couple of miles to and from your sailing grounds, it would work, just not well.

As for reverse, folding props have a bad rap for reverse power that is not completely justified. Turns out they do work fairly well, but most folks don't put the rpms high enough to get the blades fully open in reverse. But with the prop being too small to begin with, reverse could be a concern.

Since you have a lot of other things to spend money on just now, I would keep looking for a used Michigan Wheel in a two blade 16x13 or 16x12.

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

89' e 38-200 Prop and other questions

Thanks a lot Steve. This was what I was trying to figure out, the correct size for a 2 blader. I agree that a 3 blade 16x10 should be good as I have a 3 blade 16x12 and need about 400 more rpm. I heard that you can get about 200 rpm for every degree of pitch, roughly. What I did not know was what would be a comparable 2 blade. I guess I should look then for a 2 blade 16x12-13 and give it a go. I am trying not to spend too much on the prop as I hope to replace it with a feathering version at the Annapolis Boat show this coming october, but I need something for the summer. Used to be so easy to find used props all over Annapolis, but a lot of the used boat part shops have gone out of business. Thanks again, BTW have you ever tried replacing the lower rudder bushing? Mine is bronze about 3/16" thick. I wanted to replace it but did not know how hard it would be to get that old bushing out? Rudder is already dropped. And while I'm asking... How hard is it to replace the hoses that run under the cabin sole from the sink area to the engine area? I would like to organize that area under the galley sink better and in doing so replace some of the hoses.

 

[Seth]

Props

Right on Loren! Obviously the feathering is the ultimate, but the comments are right in that with the proper size folder you will have more than adequate performance in both directions-so if you find a good deal-go for it. Fixed (non-feathering or folding) 3 bladers may offer somewhat better powering, but KILL your sailing performance. You can make a HUGE difference if you end up keeping the 2 blade fixed by lining it up vertically when you shut down, and locking it in place in reverse gear. You will have to mark the shaft anyway if you go with the Martec (they also should be aligned when sailing-or one blade often hangs down).

Procedure: Shut down engine, put it in reverse to stop the prop (you NEVER want the shaft spinning while sailing), then neutral again so it can be spun by hand. Lose some weight, then crawl down and rotate the shaft by hand until the mark on the coupling (which you did at the dock) is in the correct location (usually up), then have your mate put it in reverse again, and off you go-1/2-3/4 knots faster!
Same procedure for 2 blade fixed types who want the best performance!
Have a ball

Seth

 

[u079721]

Never had to do that

Ted,

Sorry, but I never got around to working on the rudder bushing, so no advice there.

I did try to replace one of the hoses on the 38 that went from under the galley to the engine area, the engine water intake hose. I couldn't get the damn thing to budge at all, so I left it in place and just spliced the extra length I needed to install a raw water strainer under the sink.

I was thinking that on my 15 year old boat the polybutylene fresh water tubing would start to give out fairly soon, and need replacing, and that access to all of those hoses and pipes under the cabin sole would be necessary, but I never did figure it out. The polybutylene would be easy to slide through, but the rubber engine water hose had too much friction to move easily. I sure hope it isn't necessary to remove part of the cabin sole just to get at the stuff!