Boxster2nr
New Member
I have just recentley acquired a e-27 and am in need of main compaion way hatch. Any Thoughts or ideas would be help full Thanks
Main Companion Way Hatch E-27
- Thread starter Boxster2nr
- Start date
Walter Pearson
Member III
I have not heard of a source where you could just order a replacement hatch. Most people figure out a way to do it themselves or find a craftsperson willing to do it. I've seen posts saying it was simple and reasonably inexpensive and others indicating how expensive and hard it is to duplicate the compound angles. One suggestion I would make is try to save as much of the original as possible - even if unusable, the parts make valuable patterns.
I made a temporary hatch using three layers of 1/4 plywood epoxied together over a form to obtain the original curvature. The outer framework was only pine since it was intended to just last over the winter. I've been repairing it and repainting it for several years while I have been making another. This one has teak ply on either side of honeycomb for the top and will have teak framework - if I ever get it done.
Searches will turn up various materials and ways to go about constructing sliding hatches. The second method I chose had more to do with available materials and a desire to get the lightest hatch possible. The downside will probably be the low durability and possible problems repairing dings in the veneer surface.
I made a temporary hatch using three layers of 1/4 plywood epoxied together over a form to obtain the original curvature. The outer framework was only pine since it was intended to just last over the winter. I've been repairing it and repainting it for several years while I have been making another. This one has teak ply on either side of honeycomb for the top and will have teak framework - if I ever get it done.
Searches will turn up various materials and ways to go about constructing sliding hatches. The second method I chose had more to do with available materials and a desire to get the lightest hatch possible. The downside will probably be the low durability and possible problems repairing dings in the veneer surface.
Jack Crowe
Junior Member
I took my delapitated and delaminated cover to a cabinet maker (a large shop with all the right tools). The owner was a boater (power) and took sympathy with me to undertake the project. After about 2 months and $800.00 I received a beautiful replica of the orginal hatch - the shop owner said that he would not do it again. They claimed they used marine teak plywood along with the solid teak pieces, however, within one season in the weather it began to delam again. I put 8 coats of a top shelf marine poly varnish to protect it - what a shame! If I were to do over I'd look into a plastic or fiberglass alternative.
Best of luck!
JCC
Best of luck!
JCC
Jeff Asbury
Principal Partner
Do a search on this site!
Do a search on this site. I recall someone offering the use of a mold for a E-27 companion way hatch with some good pics of the rebuilding process. Another guy made one out of that "PlasTeak" stuff.
Do a search on this site. I recall someone offering the use of a mold for a E-27 companion way hatch with some good pics of the rebuilding process. Another guy made one out of that "PlasTeak" stuff.
bill nixon
Junior Member
Companion hatch cover
Did you ever find a fix for your hatch? My top surface is bad, I am considering having it planed down and recovering, but the frame would get planed as well. Plane with an electric hand plane? Maybe go with teak/mahog strips somehow and bevel the edges and seal? Another thought is to take the frame to a local plastic supplier and have them heat a smoked lexan piece to screw to the frame top. This intriques me the most.
I keep my 27 at Sandusky Sailing Club, there are 2 others here also a 28 maybe a 29. You should see the other vintage glass boats here!
Bill Nixon :
Did you ever find a fix for your hatch? My top surface is bad, I am considering having it planed down and recovering, but the frame would get planed as well. Plane with an electric hand plane? Maybe go with teak/mahog strips somehow and bevel the edges and seal? Another thought is to take the frame to a local plastic supplier and have them heat a smoked lexan piece to screw to the frame top. This intriques me the most.
I keep my 27 at Sandusky Sailing Club, there are 2 others here also a 28 maybe a 29. You should see the other vintage glass boats here!
Bill Nixon :
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FWIW - a few observations from my E27 hatchway.
My hatch is wood that has had some topcoat put over it. To be honest it looks like automotive undercoat paint or bedliner. I'd love to strip it but I strongly suspect some cheap wood is hiding underneath.
The frame appears to be standard rectangular wood slats on the sides. The front and back pieces are flat on the bottom, with a curve cut into the top.
The bottom (inside) of the companionway wood is exposed, and you can plainly see the parallel router marks that were made into the wood to add flexibility. It would seem to me that another bottom piece should be there, covering the routed piece and adding strength. I've not tried tap dancing on it but it seems sturdy enough to support your weight when reefing or when transitioning from the top to the cockpit.
It would appear that the wood was nailed to one side, then making use of the added flexibility, was "rolled" over the frame and nailed to the other side and front/back pieces. I can post pics if you wish. Honestly, it looks pretty basic. If I were to rebuild, I think I'd go with a really nice looking wood frame - something that looked good - and liberally varnish it to keep it looking that way.
hth,
- Jerry
My hatch is wood that has had some topcoat put over it. To be honest it looks like automotive undercoat paint or bedliner. I'd love to strip it but I strongly suspect some cheap wood is hiding underneath.
The frame appears to be standard rectangular wood slats on the sides. The front and back pieces are flat on the bottom, with a curve cut into the top.
The bottom (inside) of the companionway wood is exposed, and you can plainly see the parallel router marks that were made into the wood to add flexibility. It would seem to me that another bottom piece should be there, covering the routed piece and adding strength. I've not tried tap dancing on it but it seems sturdy enough to support your weight when reefing or when transitioning from the top to the cockpit.
It would appear that the wood was nailed to one side, then making use of the added flexibility, was "rolled" over the frame and nailed to the other side and front/back pieces. I can post pics if you wish. Honestly, it looks pretty basic. If I were to rebuild, I think I'd go with a really nice looking wood frame - something that looked good - and liberally varnish it to keep it looking that way.
hth,
- Jerry