%##^* Jabsco electronic valve failed again !

Sven

Sven

Seglare
The new solenoid/breaker is just over 2 years old and it has already failed ! The old one may not have lasted much longer considering how little use the head was getting before we bought Senta II. I opened up the old one after the new one started leaking too and I'm confused why it failed partially open, like the new one. I see nothing wrong with the little membrane and the solenoid spring seems strong enough. I tested it with a 9-volt battery and it clicked just fine. There was no visible debris that would have kept it from closing, at least not that I saw.

DSC_4965.jpgDSC_4966.jpg

Other than going ahead with a Vacuflush installation which will have to wait, are there any alternatives to ordering yet another solenoid/breaker ? Is it even worth spending an afternoon cleaning and o-ring-greasing the membrane and seal to see if that fixes it ? What is the most likely failure mode ? :confused:

Frustrating as we have other installations that need attention right now :mad:

Thanks,



-Sven
 
Shamwari

Shamwari

Please Contact Admin.
solinoid valve

Sven
I bought 3 valves that looked just like those yesterday for a product I'm working on. They came from a plumbing supply that specizes in sprinkling and were about $13 each - very cheap fot a liquid solinoid. If it's easy to get at I'd buy a few spares, but if it is hard to change there are better designed commercial solinoids available - see the hydralic/ pneumatic suppliers.
 
Sven

Sven

Seglare
Shamwari said:
Sven
I bought 3 valves that looked just like those yesterday for a product I'm working on. They came from a plumbing supply that specizes in sprinkling and were about $13 each - very cheap fot a liquid solinoid. If it's easy to get at I'd buy a few spares, but if it is hard to change there are better designed commercial solinoids available - see the hydralic/ pneumatic suppliers.
Click to expand...

Do you have a part, manufacturer or other info for the ones you bought ? I did a google image search for 'anti-siphon sprinkler valve' and none of the pictures looks like this one. A sprinkler valve might still be a solution even if most of them are bigger.

Thx.



-Sven
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Puzzled, I am.
Where do you put a solenoid valve/breaker in the head plumbing?
(Totally new concept to me.)

:confused:

Loren
 
Sven

Sven

Seglare
Loren Beach said:
Puzzled, I am.
Where do you put a solenoid valve/breaker in the head plumbing?
(Totally new concept to me.)
Click to expand...

Senta has what is probably a relatively recent fresh-water flushed electric head. It is the fresh water supply that need the solenoid.



-Sven
 
bayhoss

bayhoss

Member III
Sven, have you tried Sporlan? They manufacture a wide range of solenoid valves for liquid handling.

Best always,
Frank
 
Flight Risk

Flight Risk

Member II
Sven,

We use a lot of valves from Asco. I think their trademark is something like "Asco Red Hat" from the "Automatic Switch Company". They typically have a brass or bronze body with pipe threads so you would need to install hose barbs. The coils on top are sealed and seperated from the valve body.

We use them with diesel, propane and a host of other liquid and vapor applications. Grainger sells the part number below for 59.00 over the counter. 1/4" pipe theads, normally closed coil, 12VDC. Autocad drawing below..... Asco part number is 8262H020 if you go to their website at ascovalve.com. They also have 3/8, 1/2 etc. The Grainger part number for the 1/4" valve is 6WTT7. You can also order a similar one rated for LPG if the solenoid valve back at your propane tank takes a dump.....

Not that I have had that issue........
:egrin:


Chris
E34 Flight Risk
asco valve.jpg
 
Sven

Sven

Seglare
Flight Risk said:
Sven,

We use a lot of valves from Asco. I think their trademark is something like "Asco Red Hat" from the "Automatic Switch Company". They typically have a brass or bronze body with pipe threads so you would need to install hose barbs. The coils on top are sealed and seperated from the valve body.
Click to expand...

Many thanks for the info. We'll have to decide how to proceed when we get back in town later this week.



-Sven
 
Sven

Sven

Seglare
Sven said:
There was no visible debris that would have kept it from closing, at least not that I saw.
Click to expand...

I had kept the old solenoid for possible future spare part scavenging and rinsed out the membrane and put o-ring grease on it. In desperation I installed the old one again just to see if there had been any debris that was too small to see. Sure enough, the "re-conditioned" membrane solenoid almost doesn't leak at all, just a seep that is so slow that it doesn't even ripple the water surface. It is still not an acceptable situation but good enough to give us time to consider a manual Lavac replacement.

When I looked at the most recent solenoid membrane I did indeed find a tiny speck of copper oxide (copper fresh water piping). The grain was smaller than a typical sand grain, but visible. I rinsed it out and put grease on the membrane to store the solenoid away for the time being.

I gather that the problem is that the valve is much too sensitive to particulates that one would expect to find in the piping of an older boat. The Jabsco user manual and installation instructions say nothing about filtering the fresh water but a fine filter before the solenoid/valve might have taken care of the problem. Paying 25% of the complete toilet's cost for a new solenoid (list price) every 18 to 24 months is not the solution.



-Sven
 
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