buckski

New Member
I finally decided it was time to clean up the ice box covers. All in it took almost 2 weeks, and about 15-20 hours but the end result was very satisfying!

Here’s a 3 minute video time-lapse:

First Step, starting the project. I took home the small cover and started getting an idea of what I was up against. Firstly, the insulation is glued in with silicone and the bottom needed to be scraped with a razor and cleaned with some thinner/goo-gone. Then took to the bath tub and used a chemical Teak Cleaner, let it dry, then used a Teak Brightener. The laminate on the larger refrigerator lid was coming off so I used a zip tie to push in wood glue, and clamped that overnight. Then Sanding begins: started with 150, then 320, and 400 which is overkill.

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Next Step is taping and varnishing. I used a household Minwax semi-gloss. Freehand was hit and miss, tape worked well and peeled off clean after 4+ coats

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In parallel to varnishing the wood, I scrubbed the plastic insulation covers, then sanded lightly with 220 grit just to rough up. Some nicks I cleaned up with a razor blade then put down a very light coat of spray primer. Built that up with a few minutes between coats. Lesson learned on the first set- is that I could have put down MORE PRIMER because on the first set I sprayed on about 4 coats of semi-gloss, the last coat putting it on really thick until it is just about to run, this gave the bumpy surface a smoother finish. The dimples in the old plastic made a lot of air-bubbles that looked like tiny moon craters until the final thick top coat. It came out mostly smooth in the end. The second set I did a heavier primer coat, then only 2-3 coats of semi-gloss, the last one again- as thick as I could spray without it running. It took 1 can of Rustoleum primer, and 2 cans of Semi-Gloss to paint all 4. I know they'll get banged around so I hope this holds up being thick coats.

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buckski

New Member
I put on about 5 coats of varnish, and turns out that was too much. I had to sand down quite a bit to get the lids to fit and close without being TOO snug. In hindsight, and for the stove-cover, I will only put one very thin layer on the SIDES. the top can take 3+ coats, the bottom and sides might be better off with one thin coat or even teak-oil so they don't end up too sung.

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The plastic corners were already broken and some had been screwed in new locations during a previous repair.

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Extra silicone on the corners where plastic was broken.
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Previous repair has new screw holes bottom right...
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Very satisfying job!
 

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buckski

New Member
The last step- I need to source the 3”x1” handles. Of the 4, only 1 is completely in tact, 2 are in really really bad shape and 1 I rebuilt with a makeshift piece of teak that is better than nothing. The refrigerator box lid can hardly be opened because both handles are destroyed.

I contacted Whitecap who makes almost all the Teak bits you can buy, https://www.whitecapindustries.net/products/teak-teak-accessories they tell me the part # 60135-A is exactly 3"x1" but I'm having a hard time finding exactly this part on the two sites they recommended GO2MARINE.COM or IBOATS.COM.

Once I get the part, I imagine it will be a pickle to pull out the 40 year old handles that are glued in-place. I was surprised to see underneath the assembly the handle is not visible (see photo below), it is covered by the laminate so if I have to drill and chisel it out, I will need to do so carefully - especially now the insulation boxes are already screwed on and sealed with Silicone. I was originally thinking of making a loop out of cord in place of the handle but that's not a great solution. Will post an update when I find the handles, or LMK if you have a tip! Thanks!


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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Your project came out really great.
:)
Our ice box single lid is smaller than yours (and the interior is probably smaller too). I note that EY must have been producing those teak inset finger-pulls by the dozen. And no matter where they used them they are sometimes difficult to use. They do look nice, tho.... (sigh)

I have replaced the whole counter top for our galley, but did not do the ice box lid since it was in good condition. The EY-chosen Formica(r) color is - or was recently - still available. When I refurbish that lid someday I will remove the old plastic with a heat gun. I learned that technique when removed the larger piece.
Hopefully, your boat has the same EY laminate color, Formica Color #858-58 Pumice.
If you refinish that lid, that would be a good time to install a more useable finger pull, also.
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
 

buckski

New Member
Thank's mike, that's a pretty well engineered solution! Even the OEM handles are hard to open- especially because I put too thick varnish on the sides of the covers.

I Ordered the Teak handles # 60135-A that Whitecap .tells me have a 3" x 1" recess from Anchor Express. They should arrive this weekend and I'll report back with how difficult it will be to get the old piece out and try and fit them in. Hoping they are a close fit at least, but it will probably take 5 more hours for the 2 handles...

@Loren Beach - when you redid your counters, did you touch up the liner on the inside of the box? It looks like barely a 1/2 inch ... I was looking at something like this :rolleyes:
Edge Supply White Melamine 1/2 inch X 25 ft roll of White Edge Banding – Pre-glued Flexible Edging – Easy Application Iron-On Edging for Cabinet Repairs, Furniture Restoration (1/2 inch X 25 ft), Opens in a new tab
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I left the small teak perimeter ledge as is. One improvement I did make was to place a thin piece of soft insulation foam all around, on it. This seals the flange of the lid and keeps a lot of moisture out, and thereby reduces the ice on the evaporator plate/box.
The inside of our ice box is gel coated FRP, and glued to the underside of the galley counter with resin.
 
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