How to Replace Through Hull Handle

dlmarx

Junior Member
My through hull for my raw water broke off. Picture below is before it broke. I am unsure of the best way to remove the nut as using a wrench just causes it to spin indefinitely.

Now I am turning it off with a wrench but is not practical for long term.

My idea is to cut the nut off with a dremel tool or hack saw and replace the handle and nut.

Is there a better way to do this?

Thanks in advance.

IMG_1640.jpg
 

hodo

Member III
Raw water thru hull

Hi. Is it the handle that broke off? It also appears those fittings may not be bronze. More info?
Thanks, Harold
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi,
On my 1984 E30+ the handle would no longer turn the valve inside, so I considered options. The professionals I spoke with said that any time there's a problem with operation of a thru hull, it's best to replace the whole seacock. Yours in the pic looks pretty rusty, so I'm not sure the inside is still in good shape.

While it's possible to remove a seacock with the boat in the water by plugging it from the outside, or covering it with a suction cup, I couldn't find someone who felt comfortable doing this. They said that often when you remove the nut inside the hull, the pressure loosens the seal on the cap outside the hull, creating an instant boat leak. I decided to haul the boat and remove it with the boat out of the water.

Replacing the valve with the boat out of the water was quite easy, and the new seacock worked great! It gave me peace of mind knowing that it had been done right and that the new seacock would last another 30 years or so.

In summary, I would replace the whole thing, not just remove the nut and replace the handle. Mine was less than $50.00 for all the parts.

Good luck!

Frank
 

Emerald

Moderator
The whole thing really needs to go, and that includes the through hull given the age. I've had a through hull snap off on me right below the ball valve ( '64 Columbia 24, many years ago, literally 5 minutes before launch when I pushed a hose onto the barb on the other end of the ball valve - would have sunk....), and that leads to another problem. The through hull will be straight thread, and the ball valve is going to be tapered most likely. This is a common thing, and shouldn't be done, but it is over and over. The threads really don't match up well, and you don't have the engagement you really need for the application. If the current through hull is 1/2, upgrade it to 3/4 with a new seacock and proper fittings, and you'll be set and safe. It's really not that hard or expensive, and I'd recommend doing all seacocks while you're at it. Good winter project. :egrin:
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Yes, and a good surveyor will reject straight threads to tapered threads, which may mean the insurance company will want them changed anyhow.
 

716Ericson27

Lake Erie Viking
I replaced one of my through hulls a couple years back, and have the remaining three on my short list of things to do. Attached is an invoice of the parts needed including the proper adapter to convert the straight threads to tapered threads. I ordered direct through http://www.groco.net since there was no distributor near me. Also, here is a link to the steps I followed for the project http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/backing_blocks. I ordered the G-10 board at McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com Hope this helps. It seems like an overwhelming project but isn't too bad once you get into it. I also recommend doing this with the boat hauled out. In my parts of the country the boat comes out every winter allowing for projects like this to occur, so I understand the pain of having to pull the boat out if you are in an all seasons area. This is also a project to entice a friend with beer and pizza to help out.
Through Hull Parts.jpg
 

hodo

Member III
Thru hull

You will also need the tool to insert into the thru hull fitting to keep it from spinning, as you install the nut. They are stepped so they fit several sizes of fittings.
Harold, Mischief :devil: Maker
 

bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
DIY Step Wrench

Angle grinder and a socket sized to just fit inside the thru hull. Works perfectly.




Socket Step Wrench.jpgSocket Step Wrench In Action.jpg
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
IIRC, I just used a piece of hardwood that was the right size to engage the little tabs, and a Stilson. Worked, and so I did not escalate to spending money on a new tool.
 
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