How to convert from Rod to Wire rigging?

[Bill Baum]

We have owned Destiny, E33 #5, 1982, for 18 years, and she has taken us from Lake Ontario to as far South as Grenada in the Caribbean.

I am thinking of converting the original 1982 rod rigging, and my thought is to convert to wire standing rigging.

Has anyone done this conversion and have any advice? Even if it was done on a different Ericson model, the process is likely similar.

One area that puzzles me in particular is the upper termination of the lower and middle rods. These rods end in balls which lock into threaded cylinders, cylinders approximately 1"in diameter, which go through 1" holes in the mast and thread together from Port and Starboard sides. What I don't know is how Wire can interface with these 1"holes in the mast.

Thank you for any advice!

 

[Loren Beach]

Uncertain Advice

Sounds like vintage NavTec rigging. Those upper connections might thread into an internal ss cylinder that was placed inside as the spar was assembled. (Our '81 Niagara 26 had NavTec rod rigging, but in a decade we never took it apart - just inspected it externally.)
Try an email inquiry to Brion Toss thru his web site.

 

[Mark F]

When Pajo and Ava (SV Cinderella) where here in Santa Cruz CA we drove down to Buzz Ballenger's (Ballengers Spars) shop in Watsonville and Pajo talked to Buzz briefly about changing the rod rigging to wire on his E35-2. I remember Buzz saying that it was not an easy change. Maybe Pajo has more info...

 

[markvone]

Don't do it!

Hi Bill,

Here's my opinion, all 2 cents worth .

I think you will de-value your boat going to wire. You will also decrease its performance.

It may cost more to switch to wire due to changes you have identified in the end fittings and the need to re-size wire for it's reduced strength compared to rod. Definitely talk to a rigger about this to get details on the cost difference.

Rod has a longer life than wire. It also has less stretch and less weight.

If you setup new rod lengths and turn buckles at re-rig time you can re-head your new rod once in the future without major impact (re-heading shortens the rod). Also available are longer center screws to make up for shorter re-headed rod.

Navtec rod and fittings are still available even though the company is out of business. Some company bought the stock, machines and rights and are currently still producing rod and fittings per Brad Clark at The Rigging Co. I'm a little worried that Navtec parts won't be available sometime in the future for anybody who waits to re-rig rod.

See below for more on rod vs. wire.

https://theriggingco.com/2016/11/28/wire-rigging-vs-synthetic-rigging-vs-rod-rigging/

I am at the same point as you with 1981 original rod standing rigging. I'll also need to address my original chain plates and tie rods. A de-masting which I suspect would cost 2-3 times more than the cost of re-rigging (not counting hull damage or personal injury) could total my boat. I just got an estimate for new rod and fittings and installation for my E36RH from The Rigging Co, which is here in Annapolis - $8800. This estimate is for them doing everything (which is typical for Annapolis, land of the high roller). I will do most of the labor and have them do inspection, new parts, fabrication and installations that exceed my skills. I'll have the mast down and in the yard for the work period, probably over part of a winter so I don't miss any sailing. My boat is in the water all year, but not sailed much Dec - Mar. I am estimating the cost to re-rig to be around $5000 with me providing cheap labor. The Rigging Co will let me do any part of the work.

You need to also consider your future plans for the boat. The longer YOU will use it the more re-rigging makes sense. Re-rigging will help re-sale to some small degree but I doubt anyone will really consider a boat with original rigging to be a deal breaker or pay extra for new standing rigging. I bought mine with 30 year old original rigging.

Mark