How do I check transmission fluid?
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Annapolis E-27
Member III
Which engine do you have?
The Atomic 4 shares a common crankcase with the transmission. This helps make it compact and strong. As such, it uses the same oil the engine does. Spec is for a 30 weight motor oil.
You are probably just learning the A4 transmission. The reverse gear does not "lock in", but you must hold the lever hard back in reverse, and when I say hard, this takes a nice firm hand - no two finger stuff. WIth a nice firm grasp on the shift, it should go into reverse, and probably will make a nice gear whir noise to let you know you are there.
There are adjustments that can be made, but I'd be tempted to get someone familiar with an A4 to grab the shift lever for you for a sanity check that you are just learning a new animal.
-David
Independence 31
Emerald
You are probably just learning the A4 transmission. The reverse gear does not "lock in", but you must hold the lever hard back in reverse, and when I say hard, this takes a nice firm hand - no two finger stuff. WIth a nice firm grasp on the shift, it should go into reverse, and probably will make a nice gear whir noise to let you know you are there.
There are adjustments that can be made, but I'd be tempted to get someone familiar with an A4 to grab the shift lever for you for a sanity check that you are just learning a new animal.
-David
Independence 31
Emerald
Last edited:
treilley
Sustaining Partner
Also, do not feel for a detent because there is none. Reverse is actuated through friction and the harder you pull back the tighter that friction will be. I believe there is a lining that can wear but am not sure. In my Pearson 28, I was able to pull back in reverse and it would stay there.
If you are familiarizing yourself with this 'new animal' aka 'old workhorse', your immediate, before-you-do-anything-else move should be to also familiarize yourself with www.moyermarine.com and get the manual (I promise, no kickbacks for me). Besides offering a fantistic discussion board (like this one) specific to A4 issues, Don Moyer is THE expert and is tireless in his efforts to help people like you and me understand become our own experts in maintaining these reliable machines. This is pretty much a necessity given the fact these engines havn't been made in 30 years and knowledgeable mechanical service for thim is spotty at best, and guaranteed expensive.
The good news is these engines are a simple design, and easily serviceable by the owner provided they possess a shred of mechanical inclination. If this engine has never been rebuilt, I wouldn't be surprised if in a year or two you've done it - Yourself!
Best of luck.
The good news is these engines are a simple design, and easily serviceable by the owner provided they possess a shred of mechanical inclination. If this engine has never been rebuilt, I wouldn't be surprised if in a year or two you've done it - Yourself!
Best of luck.
Still no luck in reverse!
In looking at the drive shaft, it does appear reverse is in order. However, when applying throttle, the boat does not back up.
I had her pulled this morning and scraped/power washed. Unfortunately, this made no difference for the power in reverse.
Has anyone experienced this same problem?
In looking at the drive shaft, it does appear reverse is in order. However, when applying throttle, the boat does not back up.
I had her pulled this morning and scraped/power washed. Unfortunately, this made no difference for the power in reverse.
Has anyone experienced this same problem?
If the engine propels the boat in forward and seems to be generally running fine (with the exeption of no propulsion in reverse - I'm assuming the engine revs up fine but just doesnt engage in reverse), then it COULD be that a slight adjustment to the brake band is all you need.
This is where you really need to read up and understand your engine, otherwise you will be at the mercy of a mechanic when perhaps you could resolve this yourself. From a seamanship perspective, understanding your engine is essential to effecting repairs at sea that could mean the difference between a safe venture, or not! The following is a broad explaination of how the reverse gear works, but don't go in there blindly making adjustments without studying it first (ie. get the manual).
The A4 crank-to-propshaft linkage, when in forward, operates as a single unit, which is the design beauty of this engine - it's simplicity! No parts moving against each other, no friction, etc. The only linkage is an adjustable forward clutch assembly that engages the tail shaft directly with the crankshaft, and this should be adjusting only tight enough so the clutch doesn't slip at high throttle. As the engine is engaged in reverse, a few things happen: The shifting lever moves from forward to idle, and the forward clutch assembly is released disconnecting the link between the crankshaft and the tail shaft. As the shifting lever is moved from idle to reverse, two things happen -gears in the gear case assembly are moved into position along the crankshaft which causes the gear case assembly to spin along with the crank - and a brake band (effectively a clutch for reverse) is tightened around the gear case which stops it's spinning, transferring the spin (power) to the prop shaft - in reverse. Your problem sounds like the brake band is not tight enough, so power is not transferred to the shaft. Since there is a problem with reverse, I wouldn't have a lot of confidence that forward is set properly either. If you're going to make an adjustment to reverse, you should also verify that foward is set properly as well.
Don has explained to a member on his forum the steps of adjusting forward (must be the first adjustment) and reverse (must be the second adjustment). His is the 5th post in this thread: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=656&highlight=brake+band.
Good luck.
This is where you really need to read up and understand your engine, otherwise you will be at the mercy of a mechanic when perhaps you could resolve this yourself. From a seamanship perspective, understanding your engine is essential to effecting repairs at sea that could mean the difference between a safe venture, or not! The following is a broad explaination of how the reverse gear works, but don't go in there blindly making adjustments without studying it first (ie. get the manual).
The A4 crank-to-propshaft linkage, when in forward, operates as a single unit, which is the design beauty of this engine - it's simplicity! No parts moving against each other, no friction, etc. The only linkage is an adjustable forward clutch assembly that engages the tail shaft directly with the crankshaft, and this should be adjusting only tight enough so the clutch doesn't slip at high throttle. As the engine is engaged in reverse, a few things happen: The shifting lever moves from forward to idle, and the forward clutch assembly is released disconnecting the link between the crankshaft and the tail shaft. As the shifting lever is moved from idle to reverse, two things happen -gears in the gear case assembly are moved into position along the crankshaft which causes the gear case assembly to spin along with the crank - and a brake band (effectively a clutch for reverse) is tightened around the gear case which stops it's spinning, transferring the spin (power) to the prop shaft - in reverse. Your problem sounds like the brake band is not tight enough, so power is not transferred to the shaft. Since there is a problem with reverse, I wouldn't have a lot of confidence that forward is set properly either. If you're going to make an adjustment to reverse, you should also verify that foward is set properly as well.
Don has explained to a member on his forum the steps of adjusting forward (must be the first adjustment) and reverse (must be the second adjustment). His is the 5th post in this thread: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=656&highlight=brake+band.
Good luck.
Believe me, if I can work on this engine, anybody can.
Mine needed a rebuild, and based on some ridiculously high bills from the yard for previous work ($400 to replace and install a carburator and $250 to replace distributor cap, rotor, wires & plugs, plus other high $$$ bills for seemingly simple work
), I knew I had to roll up my sleeves and do this myself. So I pulled the engine last winter. My friends thought I was crazy.
I am no mechanic. Heck, until now I never even changed the plug in my lawnmower. But I learned a ton in this process, aquired some useful tools, and successfully completed the project. Engine runs great!
Keep us posted on your progress.
John
Mine needed a rebuild, and based on some ridiculously high bills from the yard for previous work ($400 to replace and install a carburator and $250 to replace distributor cap, rotor, wires & plugs, plus other high $$$ bills for seemingly simple work
), I knew I had to roll up my sleeves and do this myself. So I pulled the engine last winter. My friends thought I was crazy.I am no mechanic. Heck, until now I never even changed the plug in my lawnmower. But I learned a ton in this process, aquired some useful tools, and successfully completed the project. Engine runs great!
Keep us posted on your progress.
John
Part of what makes the Atomic 4 such a golden engine (yes, bad pun intended ), is that they are near bullet proof and dead simple to work on. It's a great engine to learn about engines on. Engines are far simpler than I think most folks realize. It's stuff like the injection systems (read diesel here), where you start getting into the tricky stuff, and then it is often knowledge and tools, versus it being "hard".
Have fun on your A4!
-David
Independence 31
Emerald
), is that they are near bullet proof and dead simple to work on. It's a great engine to learn about engines on. Engines are far simpler than I think most folks realize. It's stuff like the injection systems (read diesel here), where you start getting into the tricky stuff, and then it is often knowledge and tools, versus it being "hard".Have fun on your A4!
-David
Independence 31
Emerald
I love the Atomic 4
All,
I am very lucky. I had the knoledge of working on engines my whole teens and 20s,30s and about to start the fortys. I found the atomic 4 to be a incredible engine. Mine was flooded in a boat on the hard for years. Routinely having more than a foot of water in the cabin. We were able to free the drive shaft regain compression and free the valves without pulling the engine. My life long secret to engine greatness you ask??? Marvels Mystery Oil. If you dont use it in,on,inside your A4 I highly suggest it. I add it to oil, add it to gas, and add it to the cylanders if the engine hasnt been started in more than two weeks. I drained the oil/water when i got this boat and fiiled the crank case and each cylander to the top and let it sit for two months. Walaw I had a working engine not to long after.
I love the A4 and have no big issues since it came to life over a year ago.
Truely Bulletproof Machine!!!!
Wes Zimmerman
1975 E29
SAILSCALL
GRAND LAKE OKLAHOMA
All,
I am very lucky. I had the knoledge of working on engines my whole teens and 20s,30s and about to start the fortys. I found the atomic 4 to be a incredible engine. Mine was flooded in a boat on the hard for years. Routinely having more than a foot of water in the cabin. We were able to free the drive shaft regain compression and free the valves without pulling the engine. My life long secret to engine greatness you ask??? Marvels Mystery Oil. If you dont use it in,on,inside your A4 I highly suggest it. I add it to oil, add it to gas, and add it to the cylanders if the engine hasnt been started in more than two weeks. I drained the oil/water when i got this boat and fiiled the crank case and each cylander to the top and let it sit for two months. Walaw I had a working engine not to long after.
I love the A4 and have no big issues since it came to life over a year ago.
Truely Bulletproof Machine!!!!
Wes Zimmerman
1975 E29
SAILSCALL
GRAND LAKE OKLAHOMA
How important can reverse really be...
Turns out the brake band has an accomplice! Apparently there is a bolt involved and without this bolt the brake band cannot be adjusted, therefore preventing tension from being applied to the drive shaft in reverse. My A4, of course, appears to have lost this bolt some time ago! This is my translation and may not be exact, but I specifically recall the words "pull the motor" being uttered.
This is just starting to get fun!!
Turns out the brake band has an accomplice! Apparently there is a bolt involved and without this bolt the brake band cannot be adjusted, therefore preventing tension from being applied to the drive shaft in reverse. My A4, of course, appears to have lost this bolt some time ago! This is my translation and may not be exact, but I specifically recall the words "pull the motor" being uttered.
This is just starting to get fun!!
There are two bolts associated with the brake band. A small secondary bolt holds a wire clip around the primary, larger bolt preventing it from turning due to normal engine vibration during running (you go thru all that effort getting the primary bolt set correctly, and you don't want it to turn, right?). The primary bolt, as just mentioned, is what adjusts the tension on the brake band.
Right now, you have one, perhaps two bolts and maybe a spring hanging out in the bottom of your oil pan. Certainly not an ideal sitiuation, and there is the potential that while motoring in rough conditions, those items could jostle around enough to get in the way of the crank which would certainly cause catostophic damage.
My advice would be to join Don's forum and pose your question there. There are many knowledeable members, and Don will likely chime in himself to help you assess your situation.
If it does require pulling your engine, know that doing so is not as intimidating as it sounds, and I'll be happy to offer my suggestions that worked well for me (I can get my engine from the boat to the bed of my pick-up in about 45 minutes). Once pulled, it's a reasonably simple matter of removing a couple of housing components (flywheel housing and oilpan), retrieving the bolts and putting them back in their proper postion, replacing a couple of gaskets, reinstalling the housings and then reinstalling the engine. I know it sounds like a royal PITA, (and is, actually...), But you could feasibly be able to do this in a weekend.
Other consideration is that if you're going thru all this effort, do a compression check prior to doing ANYTHING else, and deterimine if more extensive work is necessary. Will be happy to explain this as well.
Sorry you have to deal with this, but you will learn alot about this and build your confidence and ability by dealing with it. As sailors, at some time or another we've all been there, or are going to be, again...
Let us know what Don says.
John
Right now, you have one, perhaps two bolts and maybe a spring hanging out in the bottom of your oil pan. Certainly not an ideal sitiuation, and there is the potential that while motoring in rough conditions, those items could jostle around enough to get in the way of the crank which would certainly cause catostophic damage.
My advice would be to join Don's forum and pose your question there. There are many knowledeable members, and Don will likely chime in himself to help you assess your situation.
If it does require pulling your engine, know that doing so is not as intimidating as it sounds, and I'll be happy to offer my suggestions that worked well for me (I can get my engine from the boat to the bed of my pick-up in about 45 minutes). Once pulled, it's a reasonably simple matter of removing a couple of housing components (flywheel housing and oilpan), retrieving the bolts and putting them back in their proper postion, replacing a couple of gaskets, reinstalling the housings and then reinstalling the engine. I know it sounds like a royal PITA, (and is, actually...
), But you could feasibly be able to do this in a weekend.Other consideration is that if you're going thru all this effort, do a compression check prior to doing ANYTHING else, and deterimine if more extensive work is necessary. Will be happy to explain this as well.
Sorry you have to deal with this, but you will learn alot about this and build your confidence and ability by dealing with it. As sailors, at some time or another we've all been there, or are going to be, again...
Let us know what Don says.
John
Thanks for the vote of confidence! I think I'm just going to roll up my sleeves up on this one and jump right in.
I actually spoke with Don Moyer this afternoon and he mentioned the same thing you did - certainly don't want a loose bolt rattling around. As luck would have it, he is located in the same town where my boat is currently docked. Definitely looking forward to picking his brain!
I actually spoke with Don Moyer this afternoon and he mentioned the same thing you did - certainly don't want a loose bolt rattling around. As luck would have it, he is located in the same town where my boat is currently docked. Definitely looking forward to picking his brain!