Fuel filters

[Curtis]

Hi Everyone,

Last weekend as we were approaching the slip after a lovely day sail, the engine suddenly died as I was maneuvering through some difficult crosswinds at the slip (went from forward to reverse and to forward again - dropping the rpms before shifting back and forth).

The engine started right back up as we were drifting, but we had no power. It idled fine, but would would quietly putter out when I put it into gear. We managed to drift into an empty slip (not ours) while we assessed the situation.

After running around like a chicken with my head cut off for about 30 minutes, we decided to try the engine again and had power. We managed to limp back into our slip. Of course, everyone at the dock agreed that we needed to inspect the fuel line/filters.

For reference, we have an Ericson 38-200 (1986) with a Universal M-40 diesel engine (model 5432). The fuel system is served by a Facet Electric Fuel Pump. The boat is new to us as of July.

I swung by our local West Marine in Sausalito to pick up new fuel filters thinking that procuring new filters would be a relatively straight-forward thing. I couldn't find what I needed on the shelf, so I asked the guys at the counter for help. They all gave me blank looks as I told them I needed fuel filter 298854 for a Universal M-40 diesel engine.

Then to confuse matters further, the primary fuel filter is a Parker (for Racor) R15S 2-Micron filter. My confusion has only grown as I've gone down the rabbit hole trying to figure out replacement filters for the fuel system (it seems like the common standard for the primary filter is 10 microns and the secondary is 2-5 microns). The previous owner has a brochure for Racor spin-on filter/separators for the 20 series.

Where do y'all get your fuel filters?? And any ideas on why the temporary loss of power? Many thanks!!

 

[Christian Williams]

It does sound like a filter change.

If you have a Racor 200 series primary filter, the spin-on replacements come in micron rating of 2 ("S"), 10 ("T") and 30 ("P").

Most people use a 10 as primary and a 2 on the engine (secondary).

The numbers do get confusing. Best bet is go to the Racor Web site and eyeball your filter assembly model.

I have ordered them on line, once having figured out the right one, since WM does not always have what you need in stock, and I like to carry several.

The current boat has a 500-series filter, which is much easier to deal with, and the filters are cheaper. Spin-on filters are OK, but harder to change than they look because slippery and usually in an awkward position.

It is important to bleed the system of air after a filter change (air in system, engine won't start). There are many good articles about bleeding marine diesels on line.

 

[Frank Langer]

I have also found the secondary fuel filter on the engine much more expensive when bought at a marine diesel shop. I think it was Tom Metzger on this site who posted equivalencies from other filter manufacturers for both fuel and oil filters. I now buy mine at the NAPA auto parts for half the cost. But ensure you buy the right one for your engine model and get a good quality one.
You can probably find the post with those equivalencies if you do a search.
Frank