Exit Plates + Boom = Snags?

[hcpookie]

Question about exit plates on the boom.

I’m running a jiffy reef system on my '75 E27. I plan to run the line internally through the boom (vs. externally) and run them back to the cockpit for single-handed reefing. I plan to use exit plates on both ends of the boom. Since there are enough machine screws inside the starboard side of the boom to make this “challenging”, I plan to run the reef lines along the port side.

My worry is a snagged line. All those screws worry me that they may snag the reef line at the worst of times. The machine screws all appear to be at least 3/4" long and stick farther into the boom than I would have guessed. The longest that they need to be is about 3/8".

Should I replace all the screws with shorter ones and round the ends to minimize snagging? If I had a 3-foot-long socket extension I would even consider acorn nuts… would there be an alternative? What about aircraft-quality blind rivets vs. machine screws? Are there any tips or tricks to running the line internally?

TIA
- Jerry

 

[Seth]

snags

Are you talking about the aluminum plates that cover the rectangular cutouts where the reefing lines enter and exit the boom?

If so, rivets are a good way to help this problem out, but if it were my boat, i would get rid of the cover plates altogether!! They do nothing for ease of operation and just cause problems. Take 'em off, file down any rough spots around and insiude the cutout, and you are good to go!

On that reefing system, don't use fixed cheek blocks or a track on the side of the boom..just take the reefline from the back end of the boom up to the clew cringle, and down around the boom. If you do not have a loose footed main, just cut a 8" slit in the foot of the sail directly under the clew cringle, so you can tie off the reef line there. This system will self-adjust, so you get the ideal division of tension between foot and leech.

Simpler, cheaper, lighter, and much more optimal for sail shape! You WILL need a winch to get enough tension on the leech..

Cheers,
s

 

[hcpookie]

Seth, thanks for the response!

“Yes”, but I have yet to install them. This is intended to be the answer to my single-hand reefing questions. I’m looking at this one:

http://images.westmarine.com/full/03248_f.jpg


My concern was the ability of the line to snag on the bolts inside the mast. I plan to install either the "flat" plates that are simply exit holes, but I'm starting to lean toward using a “through-deck block” (that’s what Harken calls them). I see no reason not to use them in this application. The fact that you are saying that filing the rough edges for the exit plates makes me wonder if the Harken solution may be a better all-around solution since ball-bearing blocks are redirecting the force.

 

[Seth]

That's the one

That is the cover I would do away with-it does nothing for you and is simply something to snag lines on. Just make the cutouts in the boom and feed the line through the cutouts.

Regarding the through-deck blocks, they are overkill UNLESS you need to TURN the line RIGHT as it exits the boom. Normally at the front of the boom,
the line will exit straight towards the boom, and then to some kind of turning block to aim it down to the deck, where it turns again back to the stoppers.

While the "cheek blocks" might work if you put them right a the front of the boom to turn them down to the deck, I see no reason to put them anywhere else..
Does this help?

 

[wurzner]

Seth,

Thanks for you response to the backing plates. As you likely saw, I will be retrofitting my gooseneck extrusion on my 38. It currently has 2 jam cleats for the reef lines and I'm not too wild about that set up. The lines pull through unless you really hammers on the leavers and then shaking out the reefs are really tough. I think I put a conventional cleat on each side and have the reef lines exit just prior to the gooseneck like on my 32 (which is still for sale). The previous owner did this and it worked great on the 32. It may not be as "finished" a look, but it never failed me. I need the boats that currently hold the clutch levers in place to bold though material that I will need to have machined to repair the gooseneck. It will be a stronger set than original, but will cost me those two jam cleats.

shaun

 

[Seth]

Last sentence?

Not sure I was following the last sentence, but on the original setup, there are sheaves and stoppers in the fwd end of the boom. You can do 2 things:replace the old sheaves and stoppers with nice new ones that will work fine, or remove the stoppers and replace the sheaves (unless the old ones are in good shape-but I doubt it), then run the lines down and aft to a winch and stopper on the cabintopm.

I am assuming you still want the reef lines led aft-and your idea on jam cleats on the boom concerns me. If you plan to use those without the winch, forget it-you NEED a winch to reef properly. Without it, you can actually damage the sail-the sail needs to have the loads in the right locations, and without proper tension when reefed, the loads can move around so that the wrong part of the sail is taking strain it was never meant to.

On the other hand, if you were planning to go through the jam cleats, then fwd, down and aft to a winch, you still have to go out of the cockpit to un- reef-not very convenient.

If you want to leave a more complete description of the current situation and your plans I can help work it out-or you can contact me off the website and we can work it out together..

Good luck!

 

[hcpookie]

That is the cover I would do away with-it does nothing for you and is simply something to snag lines on. Just make the cutouts in the boom and feed the line through the cutouts.

Regarding the through-deck blocks, they are overkill UNLESS you need to TURN the line RIGHT as it exits the boom. Normally at the front of the boom,
the line will exit straight towards the boom, and then to some kind of turning block to aim it down to the deck, where it turns again back to the stoppers.

While the "cheek blocks" might work if you put them right a the front of the boom to turn them down to the deck, I see no reason to put them anywhere else..
Does this help?

Seth,

Yes, that does help. Thanks again for the input! The hardware companies of course want you to 'trick out' every system and so its good to have real-world input about these systems.

My plans are to run it back to the cockpit via deck organizers near the winch. I'm keeping the main reefing points so that I can properly reef the sail when I have ample prep time, and use the jiffy reef system for single-hand and "at a minute's notice" reef situations. Not that I'll be doing much hard-weather single-handed sailing, but it will make me feel better to know its there if and when I need it to be.

Snags are still my worry, and I've had someone suggest that a "runner tube" could be put inside the mast. That would be a 1" PVC pipe secured at both ends inside the boom to give the line a smooth and clear path in which to run. I'm trying to figure if that is worth the extra effort, and may add this tube at a later time. Don't know if this is a good idea? Can't see any down side to it...?

For now, I'm going to trim the bolts and round the ends to minimize snagging. I'm going to see what type of those aircraft-grade rivets I can find... my boss builds kit airplanes so I can probably get some for free!

- Jerry

 

[wurzner]

seth,

I made a typo. What I was driving at is in the course of repairing my gooseneck, I will need the bolts (not boat) that hold the jam cleats in place. The jam cleats slip under load and are difficult to release...I don't like them. On my 32, I had the reef lines coming out of the side of the boom close to the gooseneck and had a small #8 winch to provide the mechanical advantage. When reefing, I need to go the the mast anyway since I have mutiple cringles for the various reef points (3 on my current sail). I also think I will keep the main Halyard at the mast as well, but the jury is out on that. I have spinlocks that will accomodate 7 lines running aft. Assuming 3 for the halyards, 2 for the spinnaker pole, 1 for the outhaul, and 1 for the vang, that consumes all my rope clutches.

What do you think of this option? When racing, I have 1 or 2 people at the mast anyway. If I need to shake a reef out or put one in, I have the autopilot for that.

Comments?

thanks
Shaun

 

[Seth]

You are right-you will need to go to the mast anyway to lock down the tack fitting (DO NOT use single line reefing). If you are going to exit the boom on the side like on the 32, you could use cheek blocks near the front of the boom to turn the reef lines down to turning blocks at the deck/partners, and then aft to the organizers/stopper/winch.-OR you could use a small winch on the boom-I actually like that idea-I always thought it was a false comfort to think you were actually doing "cockpit reefing" anyway. If the main halyard is up there anyway, leave it all there. I used to reef a Tartan 37 myself with everything right there by the mast in very short order..

One thing-there is really no difference between "Jiffy" reefing and "real" reefing. They are the same in the the important elements of reefing never change: 1). Ease the sheet and vang. 2). Lower the main hayard, lock the new tack in place, raise the halyard tight. 3). Grind in the leech reef line.
4). Sheet in and go. In that order! The only item is if you have grommets going across the body of the sail so you can secure the body of the sail from flapping around. This is rarely critical, and should be done only if you are having problems with flapping (rare), or are scooping jup water from big waves. Usually, if the reefing is done right (read: enough tension on halyard and reefline), the body of the sail will not move much at all.

I hope I am on the right track-I am still not 100% sure about your situation. Whatever you do, AVOID those cover plates-they do nothing for you.

Also, a PVC tube might help. but I think if you stay away from those plates you will be OK without it.

Cheers,

S