Espar heater install in a 1988 38-200

[Bob Robertson]

Hi,

I would like to install an ESPAR heater in my 1988 Ericson 38-200. I would prefer, but I'm open to other ideas, to install the heater in the starboard cockpit locker or in the aft locker.

I was planning to run the exhaust out the stern, or possibly near the engine exhaust.

I would prefer to install forced air heat, but I'm open to water as well.

Do you have any thoughts on how I can run the ducts or the water tubing forward from one of the aft lockers?

Guy, Martin any thoughts?

Thanks,
Bob
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[Greg Ross]

Installing an Espar

Bob,
Not directly familiar with the 38 but have a few general thoughts. I have an Espar Forced Air machine I have not installed yet but here's what I've encountered;
First thing is that the Forced Air machines are less expensive initially and would likely cost parallel long term for maintenance, spares, glow plugs, etc.
If you want to heat domestic water as an option then the Hot Water machines are better suited.
In general, Hot Water installations are easier where routing hoses is simpler then running the approx. 3" diameter duct hose. You'res sure to be able to finnd existing wire runs and water hose runs thru cabinetry the length of the boat you could follow with the hot water runs.
Routing the Duct is a challenge if you want to service the fwd .cabin/ head. From my recollection there's a recommended maximum length of duct hose with the Espar instructions and it's not alot, something like 10-12'. I was considering adding a small fan 'inline' fwd. to boost the circulation/ reduce the back pressure.
Where to locate the furnace is inportant and again, they only recommend a maximum, I think it's about 3' of the metalic flexible exhaust. Also consider insulating it for safety/ fire hazard prevention.
So all that said, I will mount mine fairly well aft as I prefer to run the exhaust out the transom as well. The gadget boxes have recently been renewed in my cockpit so they're removable, that's to be my access point for installation. There's a separate approximately 1" diameter combustion air intake hose as well plus the hot air and return air larger duct hoses to locate.
An acquaintance of mine recently had a Hot Water installation done on his Catilina 38 with, I think was three exchangers/ blowers and installed/ complete was in the $7000. Canadian area.

 

[footrope]

Search the board for Espar, or Webasto

Bob,

There are a few good heater threads on the board. I put an Espar hydronic in the aft lazarette, up high, exhausting to the right, below the color stripe and just forward of the transom. I agree with the warnings about air duct routing, but there are a few who managed to do it. I have a different interior than you, so I can't help much with that. Hoses are easier than ducts, generally.

We put in two heat exchangers. One below the companionway and one amidships. We're happy with it. We also plumbed it for instant hot water with a coolant to water heat exchanger in the circuit, at the outlet of the water heater.

I hope you can figure out what you need to do. Plenty of options between air and hydronic.

 

[Bob Robertson]

Hi Greg and Craig,
A friend of mine installed his system using PVC pipe. For his boat it worked out really well.
I wouldn't have a chance. I guess for some reason I had PVC in my head when I was thinking about a water based system.

I was wondering what size hose your systems used?

Thanks,
Bob

 

[footrope]

The coolant hoses on my Espar Hydronic system are either 5/8" or 3/4" hoses with the red insulating jacket on the outside. That means they are about an inch in diameter overall.

 

[Bob Robertson]

Thanks Craig,

1" hoses, that's much easier to deal with than the large air ducts, but it will none the less be a challenge. I'll be spending time on the boat soon getting it ready for the summer sailing season. I think I can figure out a way to bring the hoses forward from the aft cockpit locker.

Thanks again,
Bob

 

[Loren Beach]

Moving heat: liquid or air

One additional bit of trivia about going with a hydronic system...
Remember that you are dealing with "hoses" plural. You have coolant out and back, with a nominal hose ID size of 5/8 or 3/4".

Outer dia. will be more like 1 1/4" or so, leaving some room around the hose where it goes thru bulkhead cutout holes. Then you may want some snap-on insulation over all the outbound line to preserve heat for the individual radiators. You need to chafe guard every hose at the point it goes thru every cutout. Some parts of the boat may well get by with two 1 1/2" holes, for each hose. Other places will have more room and you can get by with one 3" hole.
The hoses are filled with liquid coolant and are relatively heavy, on a per-foot basis -- good support hangers will be needed every foot or so.

All this is doable, and some parts of the job will be easier than routing 3 or 4" ducting for a forced air system.... But, "there is no free lunch."

I do not mean to doggedly belabor this point, but I often hear sailors argue that a hydronic system is as much easier to install as it is multiples of cost higher to purchase (over a forced air system). Going by the experience of some owners in our moorage that have done a Full Monty hydronic install, I would say that you have to truly scope out every inch of the hidden innards of your own boat, beforehand, before buying either system.

Advice handed out weakly/weekly, deposit .02 please,
Loren


And then there's this prior good discussion -- http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=2542&highlight=webasto