u079721
Contributing Partner
I once talked to Don Kohlmann at PS/Ericson about this very point. They had apparently done at least two E-38s with factory mounted windlasses. The floor of the anhcor locker pan is suggested to be strong enough to handle the load, and all that was done is cut an opening in the locker lid to allow the top of a vertically mounted windlass to protrude a few inches. The challenge would probably getting access to the underside of the pan that far forward, which is darn limited due to the smallish opening in the forepeak of the E-38s.
I thought about trying this, but was a bit too scared off by cutting a hole in the locker lid, so I decided to just limit myself to a 33# Bruce with about 15 feet of chain as ground tackle, which I found to be manageable. But any more chain and I would have needed that windlass!
I thought about trying this, but was a bit too scared off by cutting a hole in the locker lid, so I decided to just limit myself to a 33# Bruce with about 15 feet of chain as ground tackle, which I found to be manageable. But any more chain and I would have needed that windlass!
Hull #20 Windlass Installation
I'm not sure if this is production. The windlass is installed immediately aft of the bow locker and I have the shallow locker, too. The motor is a head-knocker in the forward part of the v-berth, but it is encased in an nice wooden box. It is a very old Simpson-Lawrence that I need to either overhaul, replace or remove.
I have seen a thru-the-lid installation on a later year E-38, as Steve described, but I haven't been able to ask the owner about it. It looked good, though. I would hesitate to install one in the locker pan without reinforcement - a personal observation not based on knowledge of the structure of the pan. I don't even like to step into it when I'm working with the anchor. My deck is backed up with something like 3/4" plywood, but I don't know if it's just a backing plate or if it's glassed in. The mechanical installation is pretty straight-forward, in my case.
With my 60' of chain and 33# Bruce, I will either have to have a working windlass or not anchor very often. I may shorten the chain to about 25 feet if I stay in manual mode.
I hope you find a solution. Anchoring out is usually a lot cheaper. I mean more fun.
I'm not sure if this is production. The windlass is installed immediately aft of the bow locker and I have the shallow locker, too. The motor is a head-knocker in the forward part of the v-berth, but it is encased in an nice wooden box. It is a very old Simpson-Lawrence that I need to either overhaul, replace or remove.
I have seen a thru-the-lid installation on a later year E-38, as Steve described, but I haven't been able to ask the owner about it. It looked good, though. I would hesitate to install one in the locker pan without reinforcement - a personal observation not based on knowledge of the structure of the pan. I don't even like to step into it when I'm working with the anchor. My deck is backed up with something like 3/4" plywood, but I don't know if it's just a backing plate or if it's glassed in. The mechanical installation is pretty straight-forward, in my case.
With my 60' of chain and 33# Bruce, I will either have to have a working windlass or not anchor very often. I may shorten the chain to about 25 feet if I stay in manual mode.
I hope you find a solution. Anchoring out is usually a lot cheaper. I mean more fun.
Attachments
-
Front_E38.jpg
38 windlass......
Just getting ready to install an electric windlass on my 38. The anchor pan on my boat is definitely NOT strong enough to handle windlass loads. My plan is to remove the pan and strengthen it with a plywood core in the floor and extra glass all around. This will be pretty simple and done from the underside so the inner gelcoat will remain intact. I chose a Simpson Lawrence Horizon 600 with a capstan. It only draws 45 amps and weighs about 22lbs. I dont carry heavy ground tackle so should be plenty of grunt to get up the anchor and chain. I plan to put a stainless rub rail strip on the forward edge of the locker so the chain and rope can angle down to the windlass.
Wondering if anyone has any comments or suggestions.
Just getting ready to install an electric windlass on my 38. The anchor pan on my boat is definitely NOT strong enough to handle windlass loads. My plan is to remove the pan and strengthen it with a plywood core in the floor and extra glass all around. This will be pretty simple and done from the underside so the inner gelcoat will remain intact. I chose a Simpson Lawrence Horizon 600 with a capstan. It only draws 45 amps and weighs about 22lbs. I dont carry heavy ground tackle so should be plenty of grunt to get up the anchor and chain. I plan to put a stainless rub rail strip on the forward edge of the locker so the chain and rope can angle down to the windlass.
Wondering if anyone has any comments or suggestions.
Trucker Doug
Member II
Anybody ever think of using the area furthest forward to store chain? Obviously there would be a need for a small type of bilge pump installed to keep it relatively dry and not stinking but I think it's a crash area or something so it'd be plenty strong. PVC pipe thru the deck, windless on top, glass in the locker lid and cut a hole in the box for access as storage in the V berth. Ambitious, but I think it'd work.
windlass install
Finally snapped some pics of the windlass. As the project got more rushed, the design changed. Ended up adding 3/4 marine ply inside the pan set in epoxy/cabosil with a notch at the front for the drain. Then added another 3/4' "half" piece in the rear of the pan. The windlass mounts on the 2 layers (1.5" total). Chamfered the top layer down to the bottom layer and added 2 layers of cloth and epoxy on top of the wood. Fillet of epoxy/cabosil around all the edges and painted with urethane.
I was actually surprised how rigid the structure became with the additional thickness of flooring. It doesn't flex even slightly under the windlass load. Was a pretty simple job and after a year has worked perfectly. Also added a washdown which is mandatory since the chain now goes below.
Finally snapped some pics of the windlass. As the project got more rushed, the design changed. Ended up adding 3/4 marine ply inside the pan set in epoxy/cabosil with a notch at the front for the drain. Then added another 3/4' "half" piece in the rear of the pan. The windlass mounts on the 2 layers (1.5" total). Chamfered the top layer down to the bottom layer and added 2 layers of cloth and epoxy on top of the wood. Fillet of epoxy/cabosil around all the edges and painted with urethane.
I was actually surprised how rigid the structure became with the additional thickness of flooring. It doesn't flex even slightly under the windlass load. Was a pretty simple job and after a year has worked perfectly. Also added a washdown which is mandatory since the chain now goes below.
Attachments
-
e38 windlass.jpg -
e38 windlass2.jpg
hey Rob,
the chain goes down into the space right under the anchor pan. No watertight locker. Have 120feet 5/16HT spliced onto 100ft of 5/8 megabraid. The gypsy is a rope/chain style. Thinking about letting it all slide down into the next locker aft since i dont use it. Maybe make that one water tight and put in a small bilge pump. so far I havent gotten much water at all below, other than the wet chain. the windlass has a lip around the hawse hole so water doesnt run down. I would only worry if the locker drain clogged and filled with water.
the chain goes down into the space right under the anchor pan. No watertight locker. Have 120feet 5/16HT spliced onto 100ft of 5/8 megabraid. The gypsy is a rope/chain style. Thinking about letting it all slide down into the next locker aft since i dont use it. Maybe make that one water tight and put in a small bilge pump. so far I havent gotten much water at all below, other than the wet chain. the windlass has a lip around the hawse hole so water doesnt run down. I would only worry if the locker drain clogged and filled with water.