E38 Windlass

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CaptnNero

Accelerant
Hi Paul,

The answer is neither. Just like modern deep anchor wells, I made a 3/4" hole several inches from the bow on the port side of the new locker bottom draining directly overboard. I put a stainless cone shaped vent over the outside hull side pointing aft and slightly downward to prevent dirt collecting there.

The original drain thru the front edge of the bow is several inches too high to use as a primary drain. I'll just leave it there. I noticed some of the newer deep well boats have a bottom drain as well as a "high water" drain in case the bottom drain gets plugged or can't keep up I guess.

Shadowfax said:
Neal,

Does your new chain locker drain into the bilge, or have you reused the orginial drain?
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CaptnNero

Accelerant
try Lewmar

It's a Simpson Lawrence Sprint Atlantic which has been discontinued. If you look at the Lewmar website they have a bunch of verttical gypsy only models.

Richard Elliott said:
CaptnNero: What make and model vertical windlass did you choose? I'm having problems finding a Gypsy only model.
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ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
I like I like. Please more pics if you can of the finished version. Tell me more about the windlass too. Where did you mount it? Is it electric? How did you do the wiring? With the glass work what did you use for cloth? Any core material? This is precisely how I am hoping to proceed. You have the deep well and it drains over the side and not into the bilge. Thanks
 
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CaptnNero

Accelerant
The current state is that it's glassed in and seaworthy, but I haven't added the windlass yet. I need to get a piece of stainless made to mount it on first. I'll post more pics and fabrication details when I do the windlass part. The triangle in the well bottom was made from the old shallow well bottom material, which was marine plywood backed fiberglass. The other three new bulkhead pieces were made from marine plywood, hand laid glass, and some Home Depot variety FRP panel. Remember, the structural bulkhead already existed, so this one is forward of it and just needs to be watertight and strong enough to store the ground tackle. I also need to pick up a stainless plate for the chain to ride over at the front of the locker on its way to the windlass on the rear shelf.

From the windlass instructions it looks like I can use 2 AWG or possibly 1 AWG from the aft cabin battery location.

ted_reshetiloff said:
I like I like. Please more pics if you can of the finished version. Tell me more about the windlass too. Where did you mount it? Is it electric? How did you do the wiring? With the glass work what did you use for cloth? Any core material? This is precisely how I am hoping to proceed. You have the deep well and it drains over the side and not into the bilge. Thanks
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ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
You mention a vertical gypsy only windlass type. I understand the vertical part but what does the gypsy only part mean? Is that chain only? I was hoping to get a horizontal type that I could mount inside the locker there to keep the deck clear. Any thoughts?
 
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CaptnNero

Accelerant
Vertical was a deal; Horizontal still in play

Well Ted, you see I got this close out deal at Fawcetts on the Simpson Lawrence Sprint Atlantic vertical gypsy only windlass. It is low profile, so I didn't investigate fitting a horizontal one in there, but I think maybe you could.

I found that the whole vertical assembly will fit on top of the old shallow well without protruding into the vberth at all. I just need to make a fiberglass housing box and mounting plate on top of it, cutting out underneath so the motor is nice and snug and accessible recessed in the ceiling of the vberth. The forward cut out portion of the old shallow well has enough fiberglass in it to recycle into the windlass housing box, which makes it a relatively easy glassing project.

The gypsy on my windlass accepts both chain and rope. Surprisingly, the higher pulling strength for the gypsy is on the rope.

Are you going to be at the Ericson rendezvous the first weekend in August, or are you racing to St Marys ?

ted_reshetiloff said:
You mention a vertical gypsy only windlass type. I understand the vertical part but what does the gypsy only part mean? Is that chain only? I was hoping to get a horizontal type that I could mount inside the locker there to keep the deck clear. Any thoughts?
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ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
I see. Makes sense to me, but still would love to see some shots. Where do you keep your boat? I am on the South River near Annapolis. I am actually going to visit the outlaws that weekend. I would much rather be doing the Gov cup or meeting up with the rest of you guys but such is my lot. I did catch up with Chris Miller a few weeks ago on the Little Choptank. His 38 is coming along nicely.
 
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vbenn

Member III
Windlass

I have a Lofrans windlass which my hands and back are very happy with. My only recommendation re adding a windlass is to increase the hole diameter of the scupper in the anchor well (prefer a flush mount), as well as the drain hose and exit thru-hull. Mine is always getting clogged up with mud.

Incidentally, The OEM washdown sytem in the anchor well draws water from the water tanks - - this makes no sense to me. Should it draw sea water?

Vince Benn
 
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Captron

Member III
Windlass Question

Why doesn't anyone offer 120v AC windlasses? I would think that with today's inverters and charging systems that a 120v AC windlass would be a better solution. Sure you're still using 1000 to 1800 watts but the wire size could be a small as say size 12 ... you'd still have to run the charging system while using the windlass but you have to recover the consumption for 12v or 24v systems anyway.

Thoughts anyone?:devil:
 
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CaptnNero

Accelerant
AC windlass ?

I'm aware of two issues. First, starting loads are 2-6 times higher than continuous loads. My Sprint Atlantic is rated at 70amps 12VDC continuous. That's 840 Watts, but for startup the inverter has to handle 2-6 times that for some duration. Your hypothetical AC windlass motor is going to have a similar load profile for the same job. Secondly, motors don't run as well on modified sine wave so you're going to be paying top dollar for that pure sine wave inverter unless you don't mind shortening the life of the motor.

Though pricey, that heavy DC cable is going to be much less than the inverter with small cable solution, assuming an AC windlass existed. My boat needs about $150 of tinned 2AWG at current prices. That's a fraction of what an inverter would cost.

If the new hybrid power plants take hold in new vessels (see Nigel Calder in Sail, March 2006) we will see some interesting things with the high voltage power bus systems running the length of the vessel. In the case of the windlass, the high voltage bus could be stepped down at the bow for the windlass, even if high voltage windlasses are not produced.

Captron said:
Why doesn't anyone offer 120v AC windlasses? I would think that with today's inverters and charging systems that a 120v AC windlass would be a better solution. Sure you're still using 1000 to 1800 watts but the wire size could be a small as say size 12 ... you'd still have to run the charging system while using the windlass but you have to recover the consumption for 12v or 24v systems anyway.

Thoughts anyone?:devil:
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rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Here is a dumb question:
How does the chain gypsy pull a rope rode? I have heard of this but don't see how a 180* wrap on the gypsy would do much of anything. I have also seen combination gypsy/capstan setups which I assume means you wrap the rope rode, haul it in feeding it by hand into the locker and when the chain appears you swith to the gypsy?

I have also seen the rope-to-chain splice directly without shackle/thimble. I assume this is for use with the gypsy only type windlass? I got "dinged" for having a setup like this on my boat when I got it. The insurance company had me swtich it out to a standard shackle/thimble setup. Didn't matter to me as I pull the anchor with my back....

just curious, RT
 
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Captron

Member III
Gypsy Rode Question

Some windlasses have combination gypsys that will work on line. Most require a rope/chain splice although Maxwell has a model that will handle the thimble/shackle supposedly.

I prefer the rope/chain splice over a thimble and shackle anyway. I think it's stronger so long as it's in good condition. Either an eye splice around a thimble or a splice to a link in a chain will hold to the break strength.
 
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Chris Miller

Chris Miller

Sustaining Member
Finis?

Hey Ron & Neal...
How did your projects turn out? I'm particularly curious about the lower drain and how you ended up doing the windlass mounting. I also liked Mark's set-up- simple and effective.
Thanks,
Chris
 
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