Hello All,
Just about completed the windlass installation on my E38. I subcontracted about 80% of the glass work as I simply did not have the time. The original anchor pan was removed, the top was flange was cut off and bonded to the opening. The existing forward V-berth bulkhead doesn't go all the way to the deck because the anchor pan originally passed over it and intruded into the V-berth space. The forward bulkhead was doubled with a new 1/2" marine ply bulkhead bonded on. The new anchor locker space was given a floor 37" down from the deck, a small triangle of marine ply. The existing anchor locker hatch was cut off @ 12" from the back and this was bonded, tabbed, etc. to the original space it occupied on the deck. The new bulkhead below was tabbed in forward and aft, etc. The forward section of the newly bonded on hatch bit was a bit to flexible so I added a laminated beam from G10 across the front, tabbed into the underside of the deck on each side. I added more tabbing and an extra layer of fiberglass in the locker space. Essentially all the new plywood was completely covered and tabbed in with epoxy and fiberglass in the locker space.
The windlass is a Maxwell RC10-8 unit. That means its setup for 5/8" rode and 5/16 chain. I put 60ft of 5/16HT Acco chain with 200ft of 8-plait rode in the locker. The installation of the windlass required that the unit straddled the new bulkhead. Had I installed the entire windlass in the locker the new locker hatch would have been too small to be useful. So I opted to install the motor/gearbox on the inside of the V-berth. The upside to this is the corrosion on the works should be non-existant. I thought that having the chain/rode discharge essentially right down the front of the new bulkhead may pose a problem but it has not. The chain/rode feeds smoothly in both directions, does not castle up or give any trouble at all.
The wiring is 1/0 Ancor cable to the battery bank, wired through the Maxwell breaker, etc. as per the instructions. Currently I only have a wireless remote setup to operate the windlass. I am deciding whether to add footswitches or simply a wired backup switch. I like the un-cluttered look of the deck without footswitches. The pic of the little clamshell vent is covering the drain hole, a 1" hole drilled at the bottom of the anchor well, and capped with the little vent to push rushing water past. Got the idea from a Bavaria in my club. Obviously I have a little trim work to complete in the V-berth but that is not a problem.
Hope you like it,
RT
Just about completed the windlass installation on my E38. I subcontracted about 80% of the glass work as I simply did not have the time. The original anchor pan was removed, the top was flange was cut off and bonded to the opening. The existing forward V-berth bulkhead doesn't go all the way to the deck because the anchor pan originally passed over it and intruded into the V-berth space. The forward bulkhead was doubled with a new 1/2" marine ply bulkhead bonded on. The new anchor locker space was given a floor 37" down from the deck, a small triangle of marine ply. The existing anchor locker hatch was cut off @ 12" from the back and this was bonded, tabbed, etc. to the original space it occupied on the deck. The new bulkhead below was tabbed in forward and aft, etc. The forward section of the newly bonded on hatch bit was a bit to flexible so I added a laminated beam from G10 across the front, tabbed into the underside of the deck on each side. I added more tabbing and an extra layer of fiberglass in the locker space. Essentially all the new plywood was completely covered and tabbed in with epoxy and fiberglass in the locker space.
The windlass is a Maxwell RC10-8 unit. That means its setup for 5/8" rode and 5/16 chain. I put 60ft of 5/16HT Acco chain with 200ft of 8-plait rode in the locker. The installation of the windlass required that the unit straddled the new bulkhead. Had I installed the entire windlass in the locker the new locker hatch would have been too small to be useful. So I opted to install the motor/gearbox on the inside of the V-berth. The upside to this is the corrosion on the works should be non-existant. I thought that having the chain/rode discharge essentially right down the front of the new bulkhead may pose a problem but it has not. The chain/rode feeds smoothly in both directions, does not castle up or give any trouble at all.
The wiring is 1/0 Ancor cable to the battery bank, wired through the Maxwell breaker, etc. as per the instructions. Currently I only have a wireless remote setup to operate the windlass. I am deciding whether to add footswitches or simply a wired backup switch. I like the un-cluttered look of the deck without footswitches. The pic of the little clamshell vent is covering the drain hole, a 1" hole drilled at the bottom of the anchor well, and capped with the little vent to push rushing water past. Got the idea from a Bavaria in my club. Obviously I have a little trim work to complete in the V-berth but that is not a problem.
Hope you like it,
RT