E38-200 windlass

michaelsanders

Junior Member
We are currently refitting a 1986 E38-200. We are stripping the deck hardware to repair and repaint the entire deck and hull. I know that there are many threads on windlass installs. What would be the downside to removing the plastic pan and glassing the whole hatch in? Then mounting the windlass on deck, with the only access to the chain locker from the forward cabin? We already have to replace the foward bulkhead, as it is rotten out at the bottom from standing water, so It would be easy to make the access to the anchor locker larger at this time. And we are already doing a whole lot of glass work.. I would appreciate others input!
-Michael
 

nquigley

Sustaining Member
my 2c - you're adding great functionality by adding a windlass, but if you glass-in the anchor well entire lid, you're reducing key functionality: i.e., easy access to the bow area hardware mountings (cleats, stanchion bases, stemhead fitting, wiring for bow running lights) and storage of things other than just the rode (the actual anchor if you want, an extra anchor and rode? fenders? bags of trash, etc).
Also, you'll need access to the below-deck portion of your windlass assembly for maintenance and repair.

The access door in your forward bulkhead may let someone reach in and knock down a chain castle, but I bet it won't let you reach those hardware mounting points, and the windlass installation, much less work on them.

But, my comments are only worth what you paid for them ;-)
 

michaelsanders

Junior Member
Let me rephrase me inquiry: If you could reconfigure the chain locker/windlass setup on an E38, without consideration of the costs, work difficulty, etc., what would you do? The only real fixed parameter we have at this point is the location of the forward bulkhead. We have already removed the old plastic chain pan to gain access to remove the forward most deck fittings. It is a blank canvas right now.
Thoughts?
-Michael
 

Drewm3i

Member II
I think your plan is a good one. I would want the windlass on deck. My biggest mistake trying to add a windlass to our e-38-200 was trying to save the OEM pan to make it seem "stock." Maybe add a glassed in pipe so the chain falls down straight?
 

michaelsanders

Junior Member
Thanks Drew,
It does seem like most of the windlass installations documented here have attempted to preserve the stock look and pan. At this point it would probably be more trouble to repair poorly conceived pan and hatch to stock than it would be to start from scratch.. I'm thinking about reconfiguring the setup like done in this thread: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/e-38-anchor-locker-upgrade.10618/ Does anyone know of an off the shelf waterproof access hatch that would work on the deck to access the chain, as opposed to reusing and shrinking the existing one?
-Michael
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
I did a "submerged" anchor windlass project on my 1980 E-38 a few years ago. My anchor locker door is unmodified and the windlass isn't in the way on the deck. I didn't have to deal with replacing the plywood bulkhead in the v-berth, but I did glass in a Coosa board bulkhead in front of it. I ended up sealing off the anchor locker completely from the rest of the interior. I removed the pan but saved the aft 7 or 8 inches for storage, but you might not have the same bulkhead location on your -200. I put in a floor to seal water from getting into the v-berth "bilge" and a drain hole on the side of the bow above the new floor.

Here is a link to my project. It was a big job.


The result is strong and opens up the anchor locker from above for easy clearing of the pile, avoids any mud or vegetation stink from getting below, etc. It works great, too. After several seasons we've really had no significant issues. Windlass maintenance is pretty easy and clearing a jam is very easy. You certainly don't have to go to the extent that I did in some areas. There are many good threads on anchor locker re-building and it ends up being a matter of what problem(s) you are trying to solve along with the convenience of the mechanical help, not to mention budget and time.

My washdown pump installation, under the sink in the head, is basically untouched from the previous owner's job. It works great, too. It gets water from the saltwater toilet flush thru-hull in the head. There is a manifold under there that preserves the saltwater flush functions. The hose runs forward with the windlass wiring.
 
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