View attachment 13536View attachment 13537View attachment 13538View attachment 13539Sunflower - E35-3 - Hull 154. Just bought.
Any ideas about what cause the cracks and/or best way to fix?
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E35-3 cracks on bow - help!
- Thread starter jfibla
- Start date
View attachment 13536View attachment 13537View attachment 13538View attachment 13539Sunflower - E35-3 - Hull 154. Just bought.
Any ideas about what cause the cracks and/or best way to fix?
The Anchor roller is most likely the cause
The anchor roller is pulling down and forward. The bulwarks such as they are a layup over a piece of mahagony, and were never meant to support the loads that end up applied to them in this fashion.
Does the anchor roller have a backing plate so that the bow area is in compression, or is it screwed with wood screws into the bow area? My bet is that if you look you can see that the anchor roller is slightly down, and it has lifted the aft end and the cracks are from that.
The repair shouldn't be horrible, a little finiky, and a bit tight on the inside to get it fixed right.
This is not the first case of this that I have seen.
A bigger photo of the bow area would help.
Guy
Guy
The anchor roller is pulling down and forward. The bulwarks such as they are a layup over a piece of mahagony, and were never meant to support the loads that end up applied to them in this fashion.
Does the anchor roller have a backing plate so that the bow area is in compression, or is it screwed with wood screws into the bow area? My bet is that if you look you can see that the anchor roller is slightly down, and it has lifted the aft end and the cracks are from that.
The repair shouldn't be horrible, a little finiky, and a bit tight on the inside to get it fixed right.
This is not the first case of this that I have seen.
A bigger photo of the bow area would help.
Guy
Guy
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Cracks
Still this is coming from something to do with the anchor roller installation as Guy says. Those cracks can show up in different places based on how the roller is attached...
Still this is coming from something to do with the anchor roller installation as Guy says. Those cracks can show up in different places based on how the roller is attached...
There were no factory rollers
There were no factory Rollers on most of the boats as far as I know. This could have been a custom mod.
Most likely this is from breaking out a really stuck anchor, which should have used the cleats instead, or being on some kind of a mooring or dock where the loads from the boat going up and down were through the anchor roller instead of the cleats.
The anchor roller is only there to take the load of the anchor and the chain, not the load of the boat on the anchor, or the load of the weight of the boat in any situation.
Also look at the leverage on those rollers out there, how much of the roller is even on the boat? This is not a very good install of the roller and is the root of the problem.
Guy
There were no factory Rollers on most of the boats as far as I know. This could have been a custom mod.
Most likely this is from breaking out a really stuck anchor, which should have used the cleats instead, or being on some kind of a mooring or dock where the loads from the boat going up and down were through the anchor roller instead of the cleats.
The anchor roller is only there to take the load of the anchor and the chain, not the load of the boat on the anchor, or the load of the weight of the boat in any situation.
Also look at the leverage on those rollers out there, how much of the roller is even on the boat? This is not a very good install of the roller and is the root of the problem.
Guy
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Xactly
Beat me to it. We did do it as an option on some models, but it was very beefed up and I never heard of this problem when I was the Customer Service manager there. I am thinking this was done by Billy-bob's rigging service....:0
There were no factory Rollers
Also look at the leverage on those rollers out there, how much of the roller is even on the boat?
Guy
Beat me to it. We did do it as an option on some models, but it was very beefed up and I never heard of this problem when I was the Customer Service manager there. I am thinking this was done by Billy-bob's rigging service....:0
Hmmm. Introduces a note of caution for my boat...
I stand corrected
Looking at those rollers, they ARE the optional rollers we put on in the early 80's and onward. I remember because the tack horns arrangement was modified to accommodate it. Something else is going on, but I stand corrected. What IS different on the boat with the cracks is the securing ring aft of the roller. That is NOT factory, and I bet this is the stress point. It looks bolted through the deck and probably does not have the reinforcement it needs.. Guy- what do you think?
Cheers
Looking at those rollers, they ARE the optional rollers we put on in the early 80's and onward. I remember because the tack horns arrangement was modified to accommodate it. Something else is going on, but I stand corrected. What IS different on the boat with the cracks is the securing ring aft of the roller. That is NOT factory, and I bet this is the stress point. It looks bolted through the deck and probably does not have the reinforcement it needs.. Guy- what do you think?
Cheers
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Thanks and conclusions
Keith Parcells - Find the end of the crack and drill a hole there before epoxying the crack.
No problem
Keith Parcells - when at anchor you can tie a dock line to the anchor rode with a rolling hitch, tie off that line to the port cleat, bring the rode around to the starboard side and you have made a bridle to distribute the load to the cleats on both sides.
I will do
Seth - That is NOT factory, and I bet this is the stress point. It looks bolted through the deck and probably does not have the reinforcement it needs..
I will reinforce on the back with a U-Channel
Wheelerwbrian – Open the crack and ground it out from the top, fiberglass and gelcoat it.
I'll see how it works, I never did before but ….
Keith Parcells - Find the end of the crack and drill a hole there before epoxying the crack.
No problem
Keith Parcells - when at anchor you can tie a dock line to the anchor rode with a rolling hitch, tie off that line to the port cleat, bring the rode around to the starboard side and you have made a bridle to distribute the load to the cleats on both sides.
I will do
Seth - That is NOT factory, and I bet this is the stress point. It looks bolted through the deck and probably does not have the reinforcement it needs..
I will reinforce on the back with a U-Channel
Wheelerwbrian – Open the crack and ground it out from the top, fiberglass and gelcoat it.
I'll see how it works, I never did before but ….
Making progress
I removed the securing ring aft of the roller. It was a stress point. It was not bolted tight through the deck and the wood reinforcement under was wet damaged.
I drill holes at the end of the cracks.
I open the cracks, ground it, and apply stepped layers of fiberglass. I used clamps to return the board sides to original position at the same time I applied the first layer.
The cracks are fixed and the result looks strong.
Next step; the cosmetics final gelcoat after sanding.
I removed the securing ring aft of the roller. It was a stress point. It was not bolted tight through the deck and the wood reinforcement under was wet damaged.
I drill holes at the end of the cracks.
I open the cracks, ground it, and apply stepped layers of fiberglass. I used clamps to return the board sides to original position at the same time I applied the first layer.
The cracks are fixed and the result looks strong.
Next step; the cosmetics final gelcoat after sanding.
Factory anchor rollers.
Guy and all, Not to the point of your observation about the anchor roller on the E35 causing cracks, but to respond to your musings that you didn't think Ericson supplied factory equipped anchor rollers on their boats. The exception I'm aware of is the mighty E31. My notes and photos indicate that Ericson fitted at least four, if not five iterations of roller from a single, small roller bolted on, to a stemhead casting incorporating a roller, to large ones of 1/4" aluminum plate topped with teak and two large rollers still for the sloop models, to the massive teak anchor platforms including two wide bronze rollers found on the cutter model. I wonder if the E36C or any others have similar rollers? Glyn, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
Guy and all, Not to the point of your observation about the anchor roller on the E35 causing cracks, but to respond to your musings that you didn't think Ericson supplied factory equipped anchor rollers on their boats. The exception I'm aware of is the mighty E31. My notes and photos indicate that Ericson fitted at least four, if not five iterations of roller from a single, small roller bolted on, to a stemhead casting incorporating a roller, to large ones of 1/4" aluminum plate topped with teak and two large rollers still for the sloop models, to the massive teak anchor platforms including two wide bronze rollers found on the cutter model. I wonder if the E36C or any others have similar rollers? Glyn, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
Rollers and things
The I 31/36 style rollers were totally different. What we are seeing in these pics is the optional factory rollers for the non-Independence series boats. The I 31/36 used a completely different type of hardware all over, and of course they often had sprits on which rollers were mounted, but the point is the hardwrae and engineering used for those boats does not belong to this discussion-different issues and parts...
Cheers
The I 31/36 style rollers were totally different. What we are seeing in these pics is the optional factory rollers for the non-Independence series boats. The I 31/36 used a completely different type of hardware all over, and of course they often had sprits on which rollers were mounted, but the point is the hardwrae and engineering used for those boats does not belong to this discussion-different issues and parts...
Cheers
Looks good.
I have the factory roller, which is similar. It works fine, but does show hairline cracks at the mount.
We have to use these things gingerly. They simply won't support winching up a stuck anchor, or using wave action to free one with a vertical pull.
For heavy work, it's necessary to take the chain off the roller.
I have the factory roller, which is similar. It works fine, but does show hairline cracks at the mount.
We have to use these things gingerly. They simply won't support winching up a stuck anchor, or using wave action to free one with a vertical pull.
For heavy work, it's necessary to take the chain off the roller.
