E32-2 rudder packing help needed

[Schrewsburyduo]

Hi everyone,

So the lovely people at Foss are making me a new rudder. A very close encounter with the bottom a few years ago had compromised the old rudder which worked ok for a couple of yrs, but the water intrusion over winters had cracked the whole thing up and since the stainless post was slightly bent anyway I decided to take the plunge. So I dropped the old rudder no problem. Before I dropped it I took a couple of pictures.

I am thinking since the rudder is out this might be a good time to redo the packing...

The packing setup seems to be glassed in really well. The question for the hive mind is this:

Do you recognize this packing gland? What size would it take? (or... should I not bother?)

Many thanks for your help.

Eugene

 

[Christian Williams]

That's the classic 4-bolt rudder tube gland. Good remarks in Post #9 here:

35-2: Where to Tap Rudder Log for Zerk Fitting (measurement)?

In addition to repacking the rudder stuffing on my 35-2 (1970, #155), I'd like to follow the advice on other threads to install a zerk/grease fitting. Does anyone know how high I can go on the rudder log without drilling into the bushing/bearing/bronze fixture at the top of the log??? Since...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Loren Beach]

Did you specify the much-newer rudder profile/shape update????

 

[Alan Gomes]

Hi everyone,

So the lovely people at Foss are making me a new rudder. A very close encounter with the bottom a few years ago had compromised the old rudder which worked ok for a couple of yrs, but the water intrusion over winters had cracked the whole thing up and since the stainless post was slightly bent anyway I decided to take the plunge. So I dropped the old rudder no problem. Before I dropped it I took a couple of pictures.

I am thinking since the rudder is out this might be a good time to redo the packing...

The packing setup seems to be glassed in really well. The question for the hive mind is this:

Do you recognize this packing gland? What size would it take? (or... should I not bother?)

Many thanks for your help.

Eugene

Looking at the cable going to the eyebolt, it looks like it might be a good time to redo your steering cables as well.

 

[Guy Stevens]

I think the packing is 5/16 if I remember right. Could be wrong however as it also I think varied by size of the fitting.
The interesting thing is that the packing is in the TOP of the gland, not in the bottom.
You want to make sure you get out all the old packing. I had a small piece stuck in mine that caused leaking for about a year when we were sailing After taking it apart and loosing tools to the bilge a number of times, I found a small separate piece of packing which was only about 2" long that was stuck on one part of the gland. This was by eventually feeling around with a dental pick and it fell out!!! Replaced it all, and no leaks since...

 

[Schrewsburyduo]

Did you specify the much-newer rudder profile/shape update????

yes I think I did. This is the rudder they are making in this pic. (my old rudder was also not stock and was actually longer than the new one (my boat used to be a racer and I think it was modified so it bites deep in a following sea) so the new rudder will probably feel shorter but maybe a better foil.

 

[Schrewsburyduo]

Thanks so much everyone for the suggestions. The cable is fairly new (3-4 yrs) so I might pass on that one I think corrosion is superficial.

So I will have some 1/4, 3/8, 5/16 packing at the ready when reinstalling... and will try to measure the old packing and try to get all the packing out first thoroughly... So basically I undo the 4 bolts and the thing should open up in my hand (since there is no rudder to hold it) and then I can see what is going on and the packing is in the top part, not the bottom that is attached to the boat with fibreglass, right? So I should be able to see all the packing and clean it out really well, right?

On the other hand... the old rudder was never leaking before, and it actually came off with a a bit of wiggling back and forth - it didn't just slide down - it was pretty snug. So I am thinking maybe I can I get away with just greasing the heck of it and sliding the new rudder back? Or that might be a bad idea now that i've opened everything up and i could wreck it all?

Also what grease do people use? lithium? of teflon? I was looking at the Mercury 2-4-C, but don't know if that's any good.

 

[Alan Gomes]

Thanks so much everyone for the suggestions. The cable is fairly new (3-4 yrs) so I might pass on that one I think corrosion is superficial.

I wasn't thinking about the corrosion. Something looked odd to me about one of the strands in that photo. But maybe it's just fine.

 

[Guy Stevens]

Thanks so much everyone for the suggestions. The cable is fairly new (3-4 yrs) so I might pass on that one I think corrosion is superficial.

So I will have some 1/4, 3/8, 5/16 packing at the ready when reinstalling... and will try to measure the old packing and try to get all the packing out first thoroughly... So basically I undo the 4 bolts and the thing should open up in my hand (since there is no rudder to hold it) and then I can see what is going on and the packing is in the top part, not the bottom that is attached to the boat with fibreglass, right? So I should be able to see all the packing and clean it out really well, right?

On the other hand... the old rudder was never leaking before, and it actually came off with a a bit of wiggling back and forth - it didn't just slide down - it was pretty snug. So I am thinking maybe I can I get away with just greasing the heck of it and sliding the new rudder back? Or that might be a bad idea now that i've opened everything up and i could wreck it all?

Also what grease do people use? lithium? of teflon? I was looking at the Mercury 2-4-C, but don't know if that's any good.

Replace the packing it is cheap, and why take a chance....

 

[kapnkd]

Hi everyone,

So the lovely people at Foss are making me a new rudder. A very close encounter with the bottom a few years ago had compromised the old rudder which worked ok for a couple of yrs, but the water intrusion over winters had cracked the whole thing up and since the stainless post was slightly bent anyway I decided to take the plunge. So I dropped the old rudder no problem. Before I dropped it I took a couple of pictures.

I am thinking since the rudder is out this might be a good time to redo the packing...

The packing setup seems to be glassed in really well. The question for the hive mind is this:

Do you recognize this packing gland? What size would it take? (or... should I not bother?)

Many thanks for your help.

Eugene

YEP!! ...Exact same packing gland and set up as on our ‘73 32-2.

We also currently have our rudder out having noticed the upper support bearing surface ID is worn and now slightly out of round. Over the many years, the top plate was able to move due to water intrusion softening the area around the four bolts. (A separate major fix story in itself!!)

To your question - Our choice for new packing material on the lower end plates will be to use 1/4 inch “GFC”.....(link below)

GORE® GFO® Fiber

Plant operators often are not aware that similar looking compression packings do not perform the same, leading to significant hidden costs. While procurement has a tight hold on the upfront packing cost, the greater cost takes place in operation.

www.gore.com

 

[goldenstate]

I recently re-packed mine and found 5/16" flax. Here's a little write-up:

E32-200 - Rudder Post Observations and Anatomy

Summary: I studied my rudder mechanism and made a section drawing for future reference, included below. It seems important to have an abundance of grease squirted into the post sleeve. My rudder is currently out of my boat and I thought this...

ericsonyachts.org

The packing was in the lower part of the metal casting. The top just functions like a squeezing lid.

I used Syntef for lubrication, which is a PTFE grease, and recommended by the maker of the flax packing.
PTFE is an abbreviated generic chemical name for Teflon, a trade name which is copyrighted by DuPont.

The rudder log body will presumably be filled with grease, doing most of the work of keeping water out.

As I understand it, the rudder will not spin or rotate enough to generate any meaningful heat, so just about any packing material should be fine, provided it fits well.

 

[kapnkd]

Looking at the cable going to the eyebolt, it looks like it might be a good time to redo your steering cables as well.

Agreed, looks like a broken strand of wire (meat hook) coming through the eye bolt!