E26 Porthole Leak

[BDEidson]

I have a 1988 E26 and the porthole in the head is leaking. Any ideas about where to start with either fixing the existing porthole or replacing it? If anyone knows of a location that gives detailed instructions about how to go about making this repair, that'd be a great help.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[mherrcat]

You didn't mention if it is the original fixed port or a replacement and from where it is leaking. If it is the original and is leaking because the sealant between the frame and hull has failed you can remove the port, clean it up and rebed with butyl tape. There are a few threads on this (a couple by me) you can search for. It's kind of messy and it can be difficult to separate the frame from the sealant, but since the port is small you may get lucky.If the port is leaking from the gasket holding the glass in the frame, you may want to consider replacing the port with one that opens. Lewmar makes one that is almost a direct replacement. You'll have to enlarge the cutout a little, but not much.If you do use butyl tape make sure you clean the hull surface and frame surface very well to remove any silicone residue, otherwise the butyl may not adhere and you will leak again. I rebedded all my large fixed ports with butyl several months ago and they have not leaked at all since.

 

[BDEidson]

E26 porthole leaking

Thanks, Mark - it is an opening port and I assume it is the original. I did find some links (maybe yours) after posting the thread. I'm going to start by assuming that the tape is old and needs replacing.

I'm I reading it right, I should start by removing inner screws and then try to tap the existing porthole out, correct. And where should I find the correct tape?'

All the best,

Bill

 

[mherrcat]

There should be a retaining ring/flange of some kind on the inside of the boat. Remove the screws and the flange and try pushing the port out. You may have to use some Marine De-Bond around the outside frame and run a razor knife around between the frame and hull. Then it's a matter of pushing, prying and wiggling the port out; hopefully without breaking anything or bending the frame if you plan to reuse it. The butyl tape can be found at RV supply stores or online; 1/2" or 3/4" wide by 1/8" thick should work.

 

[BDEidson]

E26 porthole leaking

Thanks, Mark -

That's clear advice, I'll give that a shot. I looked online and Marine DeBond - never heard of it before, but it certainly sounds like a good product for the job.

Once I get the porthole out and apply the new tape, should I still be using a goop of some kind like 4200? Or will the tape be enough?

All the best,

Bill

 

[mherrcat]

I have used the Marine De-Bond, but whether it or the razor knife is doing the heavy lifting I can't say for sure, but I have some and I use it.

The butyl should be sufficient to make a watertight seal...if the two mating surfaces are clean. It is not really a "tape" per se, although it comes in a roll like tape. It is more like a sticky, putty-like substance. It is used to install RV windows, which are very similar to our boat ports. Maine Sail has a good write up on butyl on his website.

If you use it be careful, because once it contacts the two surfaces to be mated you may not be able to reposition them without removing the port and starting all over again. (Guess how I know this...) I have seen instructions that say you can apply water to one of the surfaces to aid in positioning, but I have always been afraid it will compromise adhesion, so I didn't do it when I rebedded my ports. I was just very careful to center the ports in the cutouts.

When you tighten the screws on the retaining flange the butyl will ooze out from under the frame on the outside of the hull. You can trim it with a razor blade, Xacto knife, etc. It will probably continue to ooze out for a while, but you can trim it as needed.

Here is a link to a post by Maine Sail regarding the use of butyl for bedding hardware:

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...Deck-Hardware-With-Butyl-Tape&highlight=butyl

 

[BDEidson]

E26 porthole leaking

Thanks, Mark -

This is just the kind of detail I was looking for. I'll be tackling the job in the next few weeks and will let you know how it goes.

All the best,


Bill

 

[Stu Jackson]

Bill,

Mark's suggestions are very good.

4200 and 5200 should not be sold to boaters. The ONLY place glue should be used on a boat is the hull to deck joint.

That's my rant, repeated regularly, and I'm stickin' with it!

Most, if not all, things on a boat need a sealant, not an adhesive, 'cuz most of the time you need to remove things and rebed them, and an adhesive is not usually a good sealant, too.

Don't glue it, screw it (and bed it with sealant). :nerd:

Did you read this topic about a glued down sole? http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?1526-Removal-of-glued-down-cabin-sole