E 32 Lexan Hatches

[scourge]

I want to replace the Lexan material in my two hatches on my 1976 Ericson 32. I checked at the Local 'Rubber/Plastics' distributor and they had clear Lexan. I didn't check on smoked because I'm not sure about the light they allow into the boat. The lexan on our boat is opaque, not clear. Is there something that you can put on the Lexan to 'etch' it to become opaque. I was thinking about lightly sanding it, but that is a last option.

I read some of the old posts and none talked about clear vs. opaque. I really don't want clear hatches.

Any and all information anyone could lend would be muchly appreciated.

thanks
Len Buchanan

 

[Kevin Johnston]

Len,
You could sand blast the interior side of the lexan to create a opaque hatch, if you can't find one premade. I personally would not use a sander but if I had no other choice I would only use a dual-action (DA) sander so that there would be no visable directional scratches using 220 grit or even finer like 400 grit.
KJ

 

[Dferr]

Check McMaster-carr. They may have something.
http://www.mcmaster.com/

 

[chaco]

Acylic NOT Polycarbonate !

Your Plastic Supplier will inform you that Lexan is a Polycarbonate Plastic and
is stronger than Acylic.....but crazes out from UV sooner than Acylic
My Supplier uses 1/2" Acylic (Plexiglass...Acylite) for replacement lenses.
As I am in the middle of a Hatch Cover and Lense replacement I am using
1/2" Acylic - Dark Smoke/Green Color #2074 :nerd:
The sealant is DowCorning 795-Silicon Structural Sealant-Black.

Keep That Rain off your Nose

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

www.selectplastics.com send hatch, pay invoice. Get fully rebuilt hatch with warranty. Had my fwd hatch done last year by them. Awesome work included new seals and hardware, basically a brand new hatch. You can get the lens in just about any color you want.

 

[Kerry Kukucha]

Lewmar Hatches?

Chaco & all:

I am just starting a hatch retrofit on our 1988 38-200 & was advised that acrylic was definately the way to go.

What have you done about gasket replacement? Our Lewmar "superhatches" have two gaskets - a 3/16" wide gasket that fits tight against the lense & frame; & an extruded gasket that provides the seal between the hatch cover & cabin frame. Do you have a similar system & were you able to find replacement gaskets? Where did you apply the Dow Corning product? I will probably be able to re-use the extruded gaskets, which are in not bad shape, but would be interested if anyone has found a source for these.

I looked into shipping our hatches out to Select Plastics, but the cost for one 26x26" hatch was expexted to be about $500 (excluding shipping) & with three, it was getting a bit pricey vs sourcing the acrylic locally for a fraction of the cost (provided I can resolve my gasket challenge).

While undertaking this project, I 'd also like to replace the the 1/2" "T" molding inside the cabin - has anyone found a source for this material.

Many Thnx to all,

 

[Gary Schroeder]

for T Molding ....

... see thread "T Molding for Sale" in FOR SALE AND WANTED section, dated about Dec. 10, 2007. Thomas got it to me in a couple of days.

 

[Tom Metzger]

Outwater Plastics

Outwater Plastics

http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

Select Plastics rebuild is not cheap but what you get with it is not either. They basically give you back a brand new hatch with new latches and all the seals. If you look at the time it will take you to correctly replace the acrylic lens and all the seals and hardware you probably wont save much. Especially if you have not worked with the material before. I liked the idea of having them do the professional job they did and me not having to try and locate materials, cut and fit acrylic, bed it with the right sealant, find seals and hardware that may or may not fit or leak. Select warranties their work and they have the CNC files from Lewmar to correctly cut the acrylic lens and latch holes. They are also a dealer for Lewmar and have the OEM seals and hardware. Just my opinion here and I have not relation with Select other than being a satisfied customer.

 

[Loren Beach]

One note about rebuilding an 80's Lewmar "Roll Stop" hatch...
The hinge design was *totally* changed on the next model, leading to cheers from sailors around the world with hatches that fell down all the time.

The current design has an adjustable friction device in the hinge that works very well. Our '88 boat had two of the old style hatches and I changed them both out for new ones.

FYI.

Loren

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

Select replaced the roll stops on mine and it has been working well. That being said I have heard the part that does the stopping will wear out and that the newer models dont have that problem.

 

[chaco]

Go Local !

Well.......on the E35II we have old style wood hatches built from 1"x 2"
hardwood with 1/2" acylic screwed in to the top of the frame
I have replaced this design with 1"x 1 1/2" stainless steel tubing and a
3/4" x 2" stainless steel flashing over the 1/2" acrylic lense.
The lense is sealed on to the frame with DowCorning 795 and screwed in to
ONLY the corners to prevent lifting from the frame due to heat deflection.
The flashing is also sealed to the top of lense and fastened to the sides
of the frames with ss screws. Will forward pics of the Project :nerd:

Check with your LOCAL Marine and Plastic Suppliers for a Hatch Rebuilder.
Our Plastic Supplier PSS in Costa Mesa rebuilds hatches and their is most
likely a rebuilder in your area

Drips on the VBerth are the Mother of Invention

 

[John Bouchard]

Shaded Lexan

My friend Mark (E32 - 1974) replaced his opaque white hatchcover with shaded a few years ago. It lets in enough light for him... I need to replace mine (E32 - 1971) one of these days, and I'm leaning strongly to the shaded stuff. It looks pretty sharp, too.

I also had a friend that "scratched" his clear hatch, and it also worked and looked pretty darn good.

John B.

 

[ref_123]

We rebuilt both our hatches with 3/8 smoked Lexan. Local plastic shop was able to cut and drill both for under $100. Pulled out old lenses, cleaned up frames with thin screwdriver, sharp knife and steel wool brush. Final cleanup/degrease with rubbing alcohol. Put a new sealant - voila! Looks great and keeps the water out... Took two iterations though - used a pure silicone sealant the first time. Did not work.

Regards,
Stan
E32-3 Fire Eater