E-27 outhaul

BrianP

Member II
I have an outhaul that's less than pratical to me, likes to bind and was wondering if anyone has an upgrade that has worked well. I do have a loose foot main.
 

Seth

Sustaining Partner
Kiss

BY all means, take the end of the outhaul line about 6-8" fwd of where it exists the outhaul block (just make sure you have about 6-8" of adjustment), and attach this to a 4:1 (minimum) block and tackle using flush blocks held close top the side or bottom of the boom, with the adjusment cleat up near the fwd end of the boom-so you can adjust no matter how the main is trimmed.

Much has been written in more detail here, so this is just the basic idea.

Cheers,
S
 

Mike Thomas

Member II
I stripped the boom on my 29 of all the external hardware and installed an internal out haul. I rigged a fiddle block with two beckets inside the boom and added an exit block on the end of the boom and an exit with cam cleat in the bottom of the boom. There are some pictures below. it finishes up the boom nice and keeps the noise down to a minimum. If you (or anyone else) want more info, just let me know.

Mike T
76 E-29
 

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BrianP

Member II
Mike,
I like your set up, did you use T track and cut away the triangle sides. I was thinking of doing this just didn't know if it would effect the strenth of the boom. If you could send some more info on it.
 

Mike Thomas

Member II
Brian,

The OEM put the T track on the boom but the outhaul blocks were mounted on the port side of the boom. I just made the modifications that allowed the system to be mounted inside. The way that the original manufacturer put the t-track on the boom was to make two vertical cuts in top of the boom down to the plate that the foot of the sail would sit on (once it’s slid into the boom) and remove the material in between the cuts. The end cap is easy to take off if the fasteners are in good condition. Remove the cap and take a look at the thickness of the plate.

One of the differences that I have noticed between the 27 and the 29 is that the spars on the 29 are considerably heavier made so make sure that your boom has a thick enough plate before you start cutting. Also, keep in mind that you can’t weld onto the boom so if you’re concerned about the thickness seriously consider a backing plate inside of the boom longer and wider that the track.

In as far as the other steps to the project. I made the riser for the cam cleat and the riser at the end of the exit slot with thickened epoxy and added a rod across the mast end boom cap for one of the beckets to attach to.

My set up is close to the Harkin 5.1 internal shown on
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/outhaul.php

If you need more info just let me know…
 

BrianP

Member II
Mike,
I'm going to defender on Saturday with a sailing buddie of mine looking at lewmars sm boat main sheet car to use as out haul car on clearence 4 $50. I have taken the end cap off and think a backing plate is in order on the bottom of the triangle. I hope to go with a 4 to 1 on the purchase. Thanks for the info the boat next to me is an e-29 and has the same boom as mine with the same issue.
 

Seth

Sustaining Partner
That's the ticket!

And the beauty of this website...This is definitely the "right"' way (going internal with 4:1 or better) to go-I sometimes hold off out of respect for the guys who want to improve things but may not be up for the full monty, and I try and keep most of my comments in line with the desires of the majority (since I seem to get plenty of chances to show my true racing colors anyway) at least until the discussion goes that way..


BTW-Mike-Gorgeous boom! One thing I noticed is that you have the mainsail clew attached directly to the outhaul car..If you recall I have mentioned outhaul cut up as one of the measured dimensions for a mainsail, and I see you have a sewn-in clew ring. From the pic it looks as though the sailmaker designed about .75" of cut up-meaning if you had a shackle connecting the clew ring to the OH car the sail MIGHT fit better. The way to tell is simple: If you have a wrinkle coming out of the clew with the current set up, this is likely the reason. Or, go out one day with a small "D" shackle joining the clew ring to the O/H car, and see if the main looks better. Having said all that, it may be the ring is sewn without providing for this "cut up", but since the ring looks a bit twisted, I am making a guess at this-and it might make the main set up smoother (to go along with the beautiful work you have done already)..

Let me know!


Anyway-good exchange of ideas-all of it is right on!

S
 
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Mike Thomas

Member II
was E-27 outhaul - now cew cut up

Seth,
Thanks for the compliments.
It was a fun winter project and I'm very happy with it.

In as far as the sail goes. It's a little too long (stretched) for the boom. With the outhaul socked up tight with this set up, it’s just right for 8-10. I would prefer to be able to get it tighter above 10 but I haven’t found set up yet that will give me an attach point just a little more aft. You have to look close at the pictures. In the close up of the clew, you’ll notice that the Kevlar line runs through the ring on the car then attaches to the clew. The clew can actually fly free of the boom by 6-8 inches when the out haul is full loose. Nice effect down wind in light air. It’s not the best set up but it will do until I can get a better main sail.
You’ll also notice in the picture that shows the Viking end cap, that there is a block attached to the boom. That set up did not work out so well so I went with the current set up.

The twist in the clew is probably because the sail is flaked and tied down on the boom. I removed the cover to take the picture.

If you have any ideas as to how I can keep the outhaul functional and move the attachment point back 1” I’m all ears.

Mike T
 
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