E-27 Deck Painting

[ragamuffin]

I am going to attempt to paint my decks. Any suggestions on what paint to use that will be easy to apply and look good. Also any tips on prep priming and application would be great. I plan to remove all the deck hardware once the mast off and she is on her cradle at the end of the season. I will then fill all bolt holes with epoxy then paint in the spring. Does this process make sense? I know this is a big job but it needs to be done.

 

[Frank Langer]

I have painted two former sailboats, and both turned out well. One of the key decisions is whether you want to use a one or two part polyurethane paint. The one part are much easier, as there is no mixing and they are less sensitive to temperature and humidity, but in my experience, the one part will last only about 5 years, and then will either need significant touch-up, or redoing. The two part are a bit more expensive, need to be mixed and are more "finicky", but last about twice as long.
I used the one part (like Interlux Brightside or Petit Easypoxy), and both turned out well, though it takes time and attention to detail. As with any paint job, preparation is key to a good outcome, and follow directions carefully re: use of primer, drying time, recoat time, etc. I would count on at least two coats.
Many people use the roll and tip method, but I have not found it any better than careful rolling or brush use.
If you are taking all hardware off the deck, ensure it is bedded correctly when you reinstall. If you are filling all existing holes with expoxy, make sure you know where everything is supposed to go when you re-install.
Good luck!
Frank.

 

[ragamuffin]

Thanks for the info Frank I plan on using 1 part as I plan on selling the boat within the next year. I was told it is best to remove deck hardware but I know what a pain it will be can I get away with only removing some i.e. cleats and winch's hand rails and traveler mount? Will the paint react to the hardware if it is not removed stanchions bow and stern pulpit?

 

[Frank Langer]

I didn't remove the hardware when I repainted, and it worked out fine. It means you have to be a bit more careful. If you are good at house painting, this is very similar. At this point, I don't even mask things like handrails, I just paint carefully, with a rag in hand in case I drip somewhere.
If you are planning to sell within a year, I certainly would not take everything off, as that's a whole lot more work. On the other hand, you want to sell the boat in good condition, but if you have no leaks now, then I would just go ahead and paint. But the prep (cleaning, filling spots, primer, etc.) is still very important to get a good job.

Frank.

 

[ragamuffin]

Cool, I may still remove cockpit hardware. The good thing is no leaks at all turnbuckles where re bedded 3 years ago. How may quarts do you think I will need for a 27 footer. I am going to use Interlux Brightside.

 

[Frank Langer]

I can't recall how much paint I used, but there is a calculator on the Interlux web site where you can insert your boat measurements and they will estimate how much paint you'll need. Alternatively, the tech support by phone at Interlux is excellent, and they will answer questions about how much you will need, proper preparation/priming, etc. Their phone number is on their website.

The main thing I learned is the importance of preparation--fixing any gouges carefully, ensuring that the surface is sanded lightly to increase adhesion, only going over each surface once (ie. don't go back for a missed spot, as that will mess up the drying process), don't worry about the odd little fly that gets stuck on the paint as you can easily wipe them off when the paint is dry without leaving any marks (trying to get them off the wet paint will leave finger nail marks!), avoid painting when it's going to rain or be windy (stirs up too much dust), etc.
Good luck!
Frank.

 

[ragamuffin]

Thanks a lot! The Interlux web site was very helpful. What is the best way to sand the deck by hand or with a electric sander?

 

[Frank Langer]

An electric sander risks that you go deeper than you would like. If the deck is generally in reasonable condition, I would clean it thoroughly before sanding or you risk sanding the dirt into the gelcoat--ie. use TSP or Simple Green or something like that. Then rinse it well, let it dry and sand it by hand gently with about 180 grit sandpaper, just to reduce any gloss and give it "teeth" for the paint to adhere properly. You don't want to create any real grooves by sanding, just dull it a bit. Then clean again really well to get rid of any dust, grit, etc. And when you have temperature between about 50 - 80 degrees, not hot sun beating down on the boat, little wind and no chance of rain, you can paint. Follow all paint can instructions carefully.

As well, develop a plan to divide the deck into sections, doing one section at a time so there is a natural break point. That way you will be able to keep a wetted surface of new paint over the whole section and have a new section start at a natural break point, like a non-skid section or cabin top, etc. Also allows you to take a break as needed.

If others have an additional advice, that may be helpful as well.

Good luck!

Frank.

 

[lonokai]

Frank,

How thick is this paint? I am planning the same job on my 27, but I dont want to smooth out the existing patterns of the non-skid...and I dont really care for the look of sand...though I will do it if I have to.

 

[Frank Langer]

This paint looks and feels alot like house paint. It goes on smoothly and is not thick and goopy. As with all paints it's important to follow the instructions and paint in the appropriate temps and humidity.
I don't know if you will need to add sand or other stuff to maintain the non skid. I would do the first coat without, and then decide what to do for the second coat.
I've also heard lots of positives about Kiwi Grip as a paint for decks but have no experience with it.
Frank

 

[Christian Williams]

Allow me to translate what Frank is saying: this is an advanced job.

 

[tenders]

I've found Brightside to be much thinner than house paint and not hard to apply on nonskid as long as one has spent a lot of time sanding and masking. It hides nothing, not spider cracks and certainly not gouges, so those need to be addressed before the paint goes on.

Painting nonskid does slightly reduce the degree of "relief" in the pattern but you can get away with it with two or three coats before you have to go with sand or Kiwi Grip.

 

[Christian Williams]

Yes, I find Pre-Kote really necessary. Sand it almost all off, and it leaves the imperfections nicely filled.

Painting boat exteriors can be challenging, that's all I meant about "advanced." Sun and a breeze complicate things. Although I have done a lot of this as a boat owner, I recently hired a freelance pro to paint the big reverse transom of the E38 with two-part paint. He also painted the entire surfaces of a Merit 24 nearby during the same job period.

A breeze came up and ruined his primers.

He applied a beautiful final coat, which was -- we think-- ruined by a heavy dew. Even the painter was not sure what happened to the gloss, which disappeared.

In the end he put three coats on my stern before we were both satisfied.

And the primary reason I did not choose a competing E38, when boat shopping, was that some previous owner had painted the decks. It was a sloppy job, and was the first thing you noticed when boarding the boat.

As we say--FWIW.

 

[davisr]

I think Christian is giving you some good advice. I considered painting my boat until I read Maine Sail's article, "Tips for Compounding" on Sailnet. My boat went from shabby to chic - at least I think it did - by following his tips.

Check out these pics.

Roscoe

 

[bgary]

Painting boat exteriors can be challenging

+100

Years ago, while working in a boatyard, was part of a crew doing paint-prep on a 55-foot aluminum IOR boat (one of the Dora line). Spent the better part of a week getting the surface perfectly fair and smooth.

When we were ready, the painter came down and set up to spray. Forecast was for a late-afternoon fog to come in, so he mixed the 2-part a little hot to make sure it went off before the weather changed.

Well, it went off just as the fog rolled in. And the damp turned that carefully-sprayed LP on that perfectly-prepared surface into something akin to stucco.

Spent the whole *next* week grinding it all off and starting over.

On the painter's dime.

There's a lesson there somewhere. Maybe more than one ;-)

 

[bigd14]

This is a Really Big Job. I did it twice because the temperature dropped too much the first time and the paint didn't dry properly. I used System 3 the first time since it was supposed to be less toxic, and it totally failed. In my research I found reports of Brightsides only lasting a few years so I went with the finicky two part Interlux Perfection the second time around. It turned out really nice and still looks new 4 years later. I had the boat in a shelter so I could control rain and dust and bugs and (sometimes) temperature. You will have to clean any polishing compound off the boat before you sand, or it gets sanded into the gelcoat, and the paint may not adhere properly. If silicone sealant was used anywhere, forget about painting that area. You may be able to remove some of it with various deadly chemicals (even more deadly than the two-part paint, which contains isocyanate and will kill you if you breathe it-not sure how bad Brightsides is). But areas with silicone will be at risk of failing to properly adhere. Make sure you use the right sandpaper (if you can find it and don't mind paying an arm and a leg for it). Most of the sandpaper available at home improvement stores contain stearate anti-stick compound which are not compatible with some paints. So if you don't use the right sandpaper, anywhere you sand the paint may fail to adhere. Any for epoxy repairs, don't forget to wash the amine blush off, or, you guessed it, the paint may fail to adhere. And that is the easy part! Prime it, sand it, clean it, then the tricky part, getting the paint mixture just right so it flows, but doesn't drip. And this mix changes based on temperature, direct sun, indirect sun, humidity, wind, etc. While you are painting, maintain a wet edge at all times or you get brush marks. Roll with a foam brush (but not too thick), then tip with an expensive china bristle brush. Each foam roller lasts about 12 minutes before the solvents start to get to it and it expands into a useless mushy mess. So a dozen packs of foam rollers and 3 or 4 of the expensive brushes should get you through. Let the first coat, dry, then sand (use the right sandpaper!!!!), clean and repeat. Practice your yoga for a few weeks before, since you will have to be in unusual positions to reach over areas you have already painted. All this while wearing a bunny suit, respirator, goggles and expensive nitrile gloves so the paint doesn't kill you or make you sick. And never, ever drop a full tray of paint all over the side of the boat!:0

This is a long way of saying that if there is any way that you can work on the gelcoat as Roscoe did, you should go for it.

Good luck.

 

[tenders]

I guess we all have different definitions for what a "really big job" is but I don't think painting the nonskid with one-part Brightsides really qualifies. You can definitely do all the prep work in a day, then paint as weather dictates. If you think about how long it would take to paint the deck with a coat of primer and two coats of paint, and multiply that by 10, you have a pretty good idea of the time involved for thoroughly cleaning the deck, removing the hardware, sanding the surface, and masking. That's typical for painting jobs: it's 90% prep time, 10% paint time.

Two-part paint like Perfection is slightly more involved and about triple the cost, for about double the service life. I don't think that's a bad tradeoff myself, for big jobs. Dealing with the catalyst, etc. isn't worth it for small jobs like a single hatch cover.

One Perfection tip: don't use foam rollers, as bigd points out they fall apart disappointingly quickly in the two-part paint solvents. Instead use a short-nap roller. I can confirm that "Wooster Brush R206 Super Doo-Z 3/16" Nap" are easily acquired on Amazon Prime and hold up beautifully with Perfection.

Also keep in mind that horror stories of painting aluminum hulls are a lot worse than what you'll experience painting nonskid. Aluminum is tough to paint no matter what, and requires special primers. (Note that the zinc chromate coat that aluminum used to require is now virtually unavailable due to environmental concerns!) Aluminum hulls are also very smooth, and show off every imperfection, so to speak. Your nonskid, being fiberglass, is both easier to paint and much more tolerant of flaws. When all is said and done I think you'll consider the masking job you do to be the part that gives you the most grief - both in terms of how much of a hassle it is to mask around corners and how annoying it is to discover paint that's crept under your masking tape as you pull it off. But the day after you do that you'll stop noticing it and the deck will look great.

 

[Randy Rutledge]

Painting full boat, deck to keel

I plan to paint GettinAir in a few weeks, deck to keel, I will spray with two part urethane, If the non skid needs redoing I will use Kiwi Grip, I used it on Shakedown my Mirage 236 in 2012 and she has been in the weather except for the 18 days she was on the bottom of mobile bay and the nonskid looks just like when I finished it. If you apply if when it is really hot it will leave tips that are very aggressive and uncomfortable, I wet sanded using 220 sandpaper on a block and took off the tips and love the finish.

 

[e38 owner]

Yes, I find Pre-Kote really necessary. Sand it almost all off, and it leaves the imperfections nicely filled.

Painting boat exteriors can be challenging, that's all I meant about "advanced." Sun and a breeze complicate things. Although I have done a lot of this as a boat owner, I recently hired a freelance pro to paint the big reverse transom of the E38 with two-part paint. He also painted the entire surfaces of a Merit 24 nearby during the same job period.

A breeze came up and ruined his primers.

He applied a beautiful final coat, which was -- we think-- ruined by a heavy dew. Even the painter was not sure what happened to the gloss, which disappeared.

In the end he put three coats on my stern before we were both satisfied.

And the primary reason I did not choose a competing E38, when boat shopping, was that some previous owner had painted the decks. It was a sloppy job, and was the first thing you noticed when boarding the boat.

As we say--FWIW.

Can you send me the info on the free lancer
Thanks
Jeff

 

[Christian Williams]

Freelance boat painter Joel Gonzalez
Inglewood
310 590 0753

I've only used him once, but he gets lots of work at CYC.

A little eccentric, maybe. That is, he has painted his hat. But I have known freelance writers to do much worse.