John Wressell
Member II
Because of water leakage we need to replace a section of the deck on our 1983 35 Mark III. Any ideas on where to find a replacement piece for the non-skid material?
Thanks, John Wressell
Thanks, John Wressell
Deck Repair
- Thread starter John Wressell
- Start date
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- deck
Upside down?
Generally we try and save the top skin and reuse it. There are two ways to go about that. 1> Cut the bottom skin out, and replace the core from the bottom. 2> Carefully using a fein tool and a very small blade cut the top skin off and when replacing it recut the non skid pattern in the small border area where the repair takes place with a set of small files.
If there is no way that the skin can be saved, then you would have to make a mold of it from another part of the deck.
Liberally apply mold release agent to the area of the deck that is good, and is bigger than the area to be replaced. Apply gel coat, or slightly thickened epoxy to the area that is good, then do a limited lay up sufficient to hold the gel coat or the epoxy together during removal and reuse as a pattern later.
If the area that you need to replace is say 6" by 6" the mold idea works, get much over that and it starts getting to be a lot more work to keep everything together, and to make sure that the mold releases well. (This case the boat is the mold).
More information would allow a better answer.
Guy
Generally we try and save the top skin and reuse it. There are two ways to go about that. 1> Cut the bottom skin out, and replace the core from the bottom. 2> Carefully using a fein tool and a very small blade cut the top skin off and when replacing it recut the non skid pattern in the small border area where the repair takes place with a set of small files.
If there is no way that the skin can be saved, then you would have to make a mold of it from another part of the deck.
Liberally apply mold release agent to the area of the deck that is good, and is bigger than the area to be replaced. Apply gel coat, or slightly thickened epoxy to the area that is good, then do a limited lay up sufficient to hold the gel coat or the epoxy together during removal and reuse as a pattern later.
If the area that you need to replace is say 6" by 6" the mold idea works, get much over that and it starts getting to be a lot more work to keep everything together, and to make sure that the mold releases well. (This case the boat is the mold).
More information would allow a better answer.
Guy
John Wressell
Member II
Thank you for the info. We're dealing with a much bigger area so I suspect that we'll end up using Treadmaster or something like that toi replace the non-skid.
NateHanson
Sustaining Member
You can also use a layer of heavy glass cloth for the non-skid area. The glass cloth gives it a little texture for visual purposes, and then use grit additive when painting.
I repaired a soft deck (2 foor square) from the top using an injection technique as follows:
1. Drill tiny holes in the valley of the non-skid about every 3 inches. The holes are just big enough for the tip of the West System syringe to enter.
2. Inject denatured alcohol in the holes to speed the drying out process and to see where the epoxy will stream out. If a hole does not take the alcohol, the core is in tact.
3. Allow as much time as possible for the deck to dry out. - Over the winter is ideal.
4. Inject West System epoxy in the holes applying as much pressure as possible to force epoxy out other holes. Plug holes with round toothpicks as necessary to prevent too much out flow. BE CERTAIN EPOXY IS NOT FLOWING INTO THE CABIN BELOW.
5. Clean off all epoxy from the deck before it cures using lacquer thinner of equivalent.
6.Remove tooth picks and fill holes with color matched gel coat.
I did this to my deck six years ago on my E38 1981 and have had no problems since.
Tom
1. Drill tiny holes in the valley of the non-skid about every 3 inches. The holes are just big enough for the tip of the West System syringe to enter.
2. Inject denatured alcohol in the holes to speed the drying out process and to see where the epoxy will stream out. If a hole does not take the alcohol, the core is in tact.
3. Allow as much time as possible for the deck to dry out. - Over the winter is ideal.
4. Inject West System epoxy in the holes applying as much pressure as possible to force epoxy out other holes. Plug holes with round toothpicks as necessary to prevent too much out flow. BE CERTAIN EPOXY IS NOT FLOWING INTO THE CABIN BELOW.
5. Clean off all epoxy from the deck before it cures using lacquer thinner of equivalent.
6.Remove tooth picks and fill holes with color matched gel coat.
I did this to my deck six years ago on my E38 1981 and have had no problems since.
Tom
Geoff Johnson
Fellow Ericson Owner
You might want to consider using acetone instead of alcohol and penetrating epoxy (such as Smith's CPES); it is supposed to be able to displace water.
I have read that Denatured Alcohol displaces water - not rubbing alcohol. Acetone may have a solvent action on some of the paints and possibly glues. I know acetone will cut many types of paint, even some epoxy-based paints. DNA will cut shellac but is safer on paints. Also makes a good stove fuel!Geoff Johnson said:
Geoff Johnson
Fellow Ericson Owner
You may be right. But he neeeds to use a solvent that is compatible with epoxy (and water). Also, I think acetone is more volatile and, therefore, will evaporate faster. He might also try using a shop vac on some of the holes he drills. (The Mythbusters folks tried to blow up a vacuum by vacuuming gasoline fumes. Didn't work and they were very disappointed.)
NateHanson
Sustaining Member
DNA is water-soluble, so I don't think it will displace water as well as acetone will. You'll dilute the water, and leave less as the alcohol evaporates, but you won't drive it out the way the acetone potentially could.