Costs of Pulling the Mast

Eric Miller

Member I
I've not had any leaks (that I know of!) surrounding the mast, but there are some cracks along the base of the mast and while I am working on other cracks/crazing/gouges I thought I would take care of the cracks at the mast as well. But, if this is a larger issue I might need to pull the mast, right? I have no idea what something like that would cost. At the same time I pull the mast I'll be trying to get the standing rigging replaced/repaired and hopefully find a way to re-bed some chainplates in the meantime. So, the question is, Although I am sure it varies dramatically from place to place, I'm in Yorktown, VA by the way, what are some estimates to pull a mast on a 1980 E-35? Has anyone had to do this? I don't know when the last time the mast was pulled, although the PO claimed that the standing rigging was fully inspected in 2005. I doubt if that includes an inspection of the mast.

As a relative newcomer to sailboats, but a veteran of powerboats, I'm inclined to think in terms of everything being horribly expensive and I could see this costing in the 7-9k range. :esad:
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
You will be pleasantly surprised to find that pulling the mast should be in the hundreds, not thousands. I pay about $650 to pull the mast and haul the boat. Also, you may be able to cut the cost by disconnecting as much as you can yourself. The yard may charge you a mast storage fee while you are working on it but that shouldn't be too bad.

New standing rigging should be around $2000.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
As usual around here: "What Tim said!"
I might also add that when you take the boat in to the yard for haul out and some work, be aware that you are going to pay them (about) $70./hour for all labor, no matter how skilled or unskilled.....
:rolleyes:
My point, and I do have one, is that you can save some real $ by "prepping the patient" first.

For pulling the spar, remove all the cabintop running rigging after photographing and labeling. Remove the boom and main and the vang. Anything seized to the rig, like a radar reflector or the holders for the boat hook, should be removed. Turnbuckles should be marked for rethreading and photographed. You will very like have all new ones on such an old rig, but better to be prepared. Wiring that terminates in a terminal block under the headliner needs to be freed up if it has to thread up thru the cabin top and go with the mast -- otherwise undo the on-deck connection.
Clear the fore deck by leaving the pole at home, and consider removing the fore guy tackle. Strangers will be trying to walk around on an unfamiliar surface (cabin top and fore deck) and be both efficient and safe.

When coming into the yard for a spar lift, you may be under the travellift (most of these have a hydraulic winch on the cross beam just for this purpose) and your boat will be between big steel support pilings -- have lots of fenders ready for both sides and dock lines for all four corners at the ready.

I do not mean to underestimate your prior boating background or experience, but am just trying to think of prep details that have helped us in the past.

BTW, good thought on planning ahead to use this opportunity to check out the chainplates -- lots of good guidance on this site about inspecting the interior plate attachments on that particular model.

While the mast is down, do get rid of the ancient coax and 12 volt wiring, too!

Regards,
Loren
 

Steve

Member III
Shop Around

There is a big discrepancy in most regions, for example in SE New England the going rate at most large top-shelf marinas can range from 16 to 18 dollars a foot for the mast then add in the haul-out from +- 40 dollars a foot for standard winter storage plus extras for poppits ($30/ea) and etc... Yikes! Radar removal and storage $90, the list goes on at $90/hr labor rates....

You may find a little day trip or more could save you hundreds... or perhaps thousands...

Short hauls run $250 - $350 plus add mast removal, but are negotiable depending on time of season and contingent on use of a rigger sponsored by the marina.

It's getting to be a huge racket out there...:mad:

Steve
 

Greg Ross

Not the newest member
Private Yacht Club benifits

Our little CYC is quite a different enviroment, we're basically all DIY'ers with usually no shortage of volunteer help.
Here in the Great White North we haul out every Winter and since I have a trailer and store at home the Mast comes down every Fall-no pun!
The Club has on it's premises a Pedestal Crane rated at 5 Tons and a manual Jib Crane for setting masts. SInce my Boat runs about 6.5 T I have to bring in a mobile Crane to do my Lifts. I have used the Jib on two occasions to stand the Mast after launch but will now use the mobile crane to set the mast based on the relative ease.
Biggest cost factor is going to be your state of preparation. By sharing mobilization of the Crane with several other Owners we all save relatively.
After watching a group of Owners waste away 1/2 a day for lack of organization and preparation I concluded I would be selective on who I partnered up with. Imagine "Keystone Cops" in Slow Motion!
My average launch and haul out is typically less the $200. That means all the boom and vang are off, wiring is disconnected, all the turnbuckles have been slackened and I've only left 4 stays connected, all ready to rig for lifting. And there's a place ready for the Mast, ie; saw horses on the ground or the blocking on deck to receive the Mast.
I made a hatch cutout in the base area of my Mast to accomodate access for the junction boxes for Radar and Wind machine and multi-prong plug for lighting/ Gnd. All the wiring is done at my own pace after the crane has been released.
If you're at the mercy of a commercial Yard for these services then the best you'll do is establish clearly their rates, but also get a clear understanding of what they permit you to do yourself.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
In some parts of the world, and in many yacht clubs, there's a permanent mast crane near the haulout area, sometimes referred to as a "gin pole," though a gin pole is something a little different, and boat owners routinely step and unstep their masts themselves. Some do it every single year.

The fancier cranes can be trained out over the water a few degrees so the block is positioned better over the mast step of wider boats.

One knowledgeable person and four helpers can easily do this with an E35 mast: one each at the bow, stern, shrouds, crane, and one to rove. It gets hairy and can be downright dangerous if there's wind or waves or, if you wait too long, driving snow. So, don't do it on those days.

With a bit of skill it can be done with finess rather than sloppy brute force. When I was a kid I used to do it every year on Lake Erie with a keel-stepped mast, and threading the foot of the mast through the cabin and past the partners was always the hard part. My current club has a fixed gin-pole and when I remove my deck-stepped mast (as infrequently as possible) I hire a rigger to direct the process. He had somebody climb up the steps on the pole to keep the mast from swinging--a leverage point which proved so useful the fact that the pole didn't tilt wasn't missed.

I've also had my mast stepped and unstepped in a few places by a crane that came by after the boat was hauled out. However, I was never around to observe it. As I recall that arrangement was relatively inexpensive.

The most attractive work for boatyards must be mast removal at $15 a foot and bottom painting. Just not that hard or time-consuming.
 
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Phil MacFarlane

Member III
Well this may sound nuts but…

In 2003 I had to pull the mast for the second time. The first time in 98 it was to make new (wooden) spreaders and replace the standing rigging. That time I did it my self using the small boat hoist at the marina I had “Sail a Vie” at. That was easy enough and free.

The last time in 03 the marina with the hoist was gone and the hoist with it. So I called the yard and It wasn’t going to cost that much, under a thousand if I did the work. But they were booked out a few months for a place to set the mast down. So this is where it gets good. The two boats on either side of Sail a Vie are sailboats also. The skippers are good friends of mine so I asked if they would mind…
We used there spinnaker halyards, tied them to my mast under the upper spreaders and with a person at each of their halyard winches we hoisted up my mast and then lowered it down onto the pulpit and push pit while walking the base to the stern. The mast hung over at both ends as it is 42 feet and the boat is only 35. It was down for several months as I was replacing the main bulkheads. The marina never complained nor did anyone else. It went back up the very same way but with a larger crowd watching and helping. It worked out great and was totally free except for the beer.

Cheers

Phil
 

Randypa28

New Member
Just to add on to Phil's remarks...I just helped a buddy of mine re-step his mast. The only difference from the way Phil did it was instead of lifting and setting with the spin halyards we hooked the two spin halyards to a block and tackle. We slacked out the block and tackle, hoisted it up over the boat, tied off the spin halyards and let the block and tackle do the the actual lift and set. We thought that might relieve some of the side loads on the masthead sheaves (sp?). If certainly worked for us.
 

Gary Peterson

Marine Guy
Eric,
Call Virginia Boat and Yacht Service at 757-673-7120 in Portsmouth.
They are a division of Western Branch Diesel and they will be very reasonable on their prices and they are highly qualified.
:)
 

Frank G

Member II
There are two electrical blocks under the headliner on my 32. I numbered all the wires and drew a picture before I demasted my 32 before trucking it.Haul someone up the mast to remove your windex and any other instruments on top before you start as the lifting line/cable may smash them.

good luck and let us know what it cost you

Frank
 

Emerald

Moderator
I've not had any leaks (that I know of!) surrounding the mast, but there are some cracks along the base of the mast and while I am working on other cracks/crazing/gouges I thought I would take care of the cracks at the mast as well. But, if this is a larger issue I might need to pull the mast, right?

Do fully check out the cracks. Take note if any part seems sunken, as this would indicate core failure. I had this scenario on Emerald, without any leaking below.

It is a repair you can do yourself. These types of things aren't difficult if you just work through them step by step. Here's a link to a write-up I did on redoing the core on Emerald's mast step:

http://home.comcast.net/~independence31/core/looksbad.html

Hopefully this will help you survey what you have and get a better feel for what you are up against. If it's minor cracking in the surface, you can probably grind out the cracks and fill them. If the skin is cracked all the way through, water intrusion will probably be an issue, and then you will probably need to cut it open.
 

Eric Miller

Member I
Wow. I never expected such a response! Thank you!

I'll let you guys/gals know what I find out from my marina and I'll definitely look into the Portsmouth company as well. I'm in the process of prioritizing jobs to be done and this one may or may not make the list for this winter/spring. I just had my fuel tank/fuel system replaced and am in the process of around $3k of other repairs as well including new head system, barrier coat, serious bilge repair, new running rigging, new winch/winch rebuild, shackles, sheaves, new interior cushions (extremely pricey, aren't they?), and I'm taking down the headliner and trying to rewire as best I can along with some new batteries.....you get the idea.....

If the mast/rigging is going to be under 2-2500.00 it might make sense this year, if not, I'm sure I'll inadvertently break something else and I can add the mast/rigging to next year's list....

This vessel is on its way, some of you may remember it, The First Lady. I bought it last year, while I lived in Maryland. I moved to VA and sailed it down here. The trip approx 120nm, ended up taking 7 days....rudder post leaking badly while at the same time the bilge pump died while at the same time the storm came....two days in Solomon Island (expensive docking fees) waiting for the repair guys. Then we moved on and the engine died for the first time outside of Deltaville. Spent a day there walking miles into town in a rain storm to get fuel filters, replaced those. All was well for 5-6 hours until we found ourselves, sails down, motoring into York River Channel. Engine died again, will not start. As we realize we are directly in the path of a massive composite tug my wife (a 100ton Capt. but with very little sailing experience) and I get the mainsail from under wraps to fully flying in less than 2 minutes. We slowly sailed out of the channel and anchored .25 nm from the channel while we waited for BOATUS to come save us.

So, after all of that, I want the boat to work, and work consistently, at least for the summer.

Anyway, no more whining. I have the time and maybe enough money to get this thing up and running properly!
Eric
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Wow was I spoiled at my marina - $75 to pull the mast.

We pulled the mast every fall on our E38, so I have much more experience at this than I should. Just as everyone said, prep work is the key - pull the boom, collect the halyards and lazy jacks, disconnect the wires, all that has been mentioned.

A couple of other points that can help. Get a bin or plastic bag ready to collect all the loose hardward (clevis pins and such) and show it to the crew so parts don't get lost in their pockets. And have someone (usually my wife in my case ) whose job it is to run up to the mast head the moment it is dropped horizontal and pull the masthead wind instruments and rush them back to your car for safe keeping out of the way - the antenna too in you have time. Those instruments are pretty darn fragile, and it doesn't take much of a mishap or collision with someone to bend them out of shape.

Good luck!
 

SASSY

Member II
1987 E-34 Mast, and rigging

I was quoted today. $100.00 down $100.00 up and $10.00 a day to do my own work on their horses in their yard. I was aslo quoted $2940.00 parts and labour to fabricat a complete new rig. And I would do the install with the mast down. MMSI INC St Petersburgh Florida (727) 823-4800.
My home port QCYC in toronto has a mast crane, and a boat railway. We haul the boats, and the masts out ourselves.

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BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">1/2"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">1/2"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">STD</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">Marine Eye</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">1/2"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">STD</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; 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BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">3/8"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">U-Bolt</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">T-Ball</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">N/A</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">STD (2)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>FWD.Lowers</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">1/4"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">16'-9 3/4"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">Navtec</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">7/16"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">7/16"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">U-Bolt</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">T-Ball</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">N/A</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">STD (2)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Aft Lowers</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">1/4"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">17'-3 1/2"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">Navtec</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">7/16"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">7/16"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">U-Bolt</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">T-Ball</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">N/A</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">STD (2)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Running Backs</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">3/16"</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">31'</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">N/A</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">N/A</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">N/A</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">N/A</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">T-Ball</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">N/A</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">STD (2)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>BabyStay</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">?</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:str="? ">? </TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">?</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">?</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">?</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">?</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">?</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">?</TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">?</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


Andy
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Last winter the mast was pulled on my E38. The yard charged by the hour to remove/restep. About 2hrs each way at $90/hr. No storage charge on the mast. I removed the rigging and dropped it off at a local shop. All new, 2 cap shrouds, 2 intermediates, 4 lowers and a backstay, (headstay new in '04) totalled at $1800 and change. Not too bad.

After seeing how much the hull "moved" when the mast was out and the keel off, my boat will be spending as little time as possible out of the water and with the mast down. Cannot be a good thing to move the hull around more than needed.

RT
 
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