Changing horizontal oil filters

[u079721]

I came across this suggestion in the Dashew blog that I though might be of interest to most Ericsonians.

http://setsail.com/changing-horizontal-oil-filters/

They point out what a mess it is to change a horizontal oil filter - something all of us Universal engine owners would certainly agree with. My solution (which works pretty well) was to wrap a zip-loc bag around the filter and hold the opening up close to the engine, then use the filter wrench on the outside of the bag to remove the filter inside the bag - which would usually catch just about all the drips.

The Dashew suggestion is to just poke a hole in the end of the filter, with an air hole above, to let most of the oil drain out into a cup. I guess I might worry about putting a strain on the threads as I poked the hole, but it could be worth a try.

 

[newgringo]

I have done this for years on my cars where spillage is inevitable. I think I will give it a try the next time I change filters on the boat. For my M25 I have been using a garbage bag with rags tightly packed. That seems to catch most of the oil. Nice tip.

 

[treilley]

Thanks Steve. That is an old auto mechanic's trick I have been using for years.

I will poke a hole in the top edge(rounded section) and then another in the face down low. It let as much drain as possible and then turn it half a turn the get the last bits out of the original hole.

 

[pick]

What about using a drill to make the holes? Could shavings get into the engine? Seems a little less violent, or is the can easily punctured?

 

[Emerald]

No on the drill. Get out a nasty old screw driver with a less than perfect tip, and give it a sharp rap with a hammer, and you'll punch a hole into the filter without any problem.

If you can't get the filter to unscrew, just tap it all the way through, and you've got a handle (and a mess to clean up, but it works when the wrench slips....)

 

[newgringo]

Ditto Emerald

 

[treilley]

I use the can opener blade on my Leatherman. It is sharp enough that with a few twists it punctures the canister. Actually did my oil/filter change today.

I have never needed an oil filter wrench to remove a filter. I never tighten them that much and I change them frequently enough that they do not seize.

 

[Frank Langer]

Tim, do you just hand tighten it? If so, is there any risk that engine vibration will gradually loosen it and cause leaks? Any further tips?

I changed my engine oil for the first time (my boat mechanic had done it previously), and I put the filter on by hand til it was snug, and then tightened a further 3/4 turn using the filter wrench as the directions suggested, and then snugged just a bit more to ensure it won't leak--it doesn't, and I probably shouldn't have done that last snug, but I really didn't want a leak.

Thanks for any tips.

Frank

 

[Loren Beach]

Doing it by Hand

Tim, do you just hand tighten it? If so, is there any risk that engine vibration will gradually loosen it and cause leaks? Any further tips?

I changed my engine oil for the first time (my boat mechanic had done it previously), and I put the filter on by hand til it was snug, and then tightened a further 3/4 turn using the filter wrench as the directions suggested, and then snugged just a bit more to ensure it won't leak--it doesn't, and I probably shouldn't have done that last snug, but I really didn't want a leak.

Back when I used to do all my own oil/filter changes on my cars, the mechanic's advice I recall was to hand-tighten the spinn-on filter, as tight as I could with one hand. That way it could still be removed with a filter wrench the next time.

Nowadays I am older and weaker and install them with both hands. (It's hard to put much manual torque on it anyhow, jammed in behind the alternator on the Universal diesel...)
They always come off with use of the strap wrench.

I have never had one leak around the threads. I have had to skewer a filter with an 18" screw driver a couple times over the decades, though -- what a mess that was.


Loren

 

[treilley]

Here is how I do it:

First, I apply oil to both sides of the O-ring. I then spin it on until it gets snug. Then about another 1/2 turn at the most. It could go further but I do not turn it any more. Never use a wrench. If you tighten it too much you risk distorting the O-ring. Run the engine up to temp and check for leaks. Shutdown, wait 5 minutes and check the oil level. Add more if necessary.

I have always changed my own oil/filter since I owned my first car or boat. In the last 27 years I may have used a Jiffy lube type place maybe 5 times. My filters have never leaked or come loose.

I found a new technique yesterday. Instead of a bag I used a small piece of Press and Seal(like Saran wrap) over the filter after draining it. Contains the mess much better than a loose fitting bag.

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks Guys

Thanks, Guys,
These are very helpful tips, as always!
Frank

 

[footrope]

Changing oil - warm engine or cold?

Great tips. I do dread the mess with the filter. The PO installed an oil pump to get the old oil out, so that part is easy.

I've always warmed the engine for 20 minutes or so, and then wait for awhile before draining the oil. The waiting period is to let the warm oil drain back down into the pan. Cars, boats - I've always warmed the engine - but the oil sure can burn your hands.

Does it make much difference in the amount of oil drained, or likelihood of leaks afterward, whether the oil change is done on a warm vs. a cold engine?

 

[bayhoss]

footrope

Always change oil with the engine good and warm. deposits sit in the bottom of a cold oil pan form the viscosity of gear lube (molasses in Jan.). Other unwanted deposits get trapped in this interpolated tar pit and will remain in your engine if the oil is changed cold. Warming the engine melts this batch of goo and out it comes with the oil and unwanteds.

Best,
Frank

 

[u079721]

Fuel filter cold, engine oil filter hot

Always change oil with the engine good and warm. deposits sit in the bottom of a cold oil pan form the viscosity of gear lube (molasses in Jan.). Other unwanted deposits get trapped in this interpolated tar pit and will remain in your engine if the oil is changed cold. Warming the engine melts this batch of goo and out it comes with the oil and unwanteds.

Best,
Frank

Changing the fuel oil filter mounted on my M-40 pretty much involved laying across the top of the engine to get access. So over the years I altered my routine to change the fuel oil filter while the engine was still cold, THEN I would warm it up for 20 min or so and change the engine oil and trans oil while it was warm.

Lucky for me my PO had installed one of those oil sump fittings at the bottom of the pan. That made changing the oil (if not the oil filter) a real snap.

 

[rwthomas1]

I cut off the bottom of a plastic 2 1/2 gallon water jug, its rectangular and 3" deep or so. Slide it under the oil filter, leaving it setting on the engine rail/bed. Place a diaper (disposable) in the plastic pan. The pan catches all the oil and the diaper soaks up the oil nicely. Works for me. RT

 

[Guy Stevens]

I just install remote oil filter kits on all my boats.

Really I just install remote mount kits on all of my boats, so that the oil filters are correctly oriented so gravity does not cause issues.

As a bonus, I put them where they are really really easy to get to, so that I have no excuses for not changing the oil when it needs it.

Guy

 

[Sven]

Guy,

Really I just install remote mount kits on all of my boats, so that the oil filters are correctly oriented so gravity does not cause issues.

As a bonus, I put them where they are really really easy to get to, so that I have no excuses for not changing the oil when it needs it.

This is on my loooong list of things to look into. How far away can you mount them and how high relative to the engine ? Who makes the kits you install ?

Thanks,


-Sven

 

[Guy Stevens]

I think this is the one for the perkins

1113 - Trans Dapt Performance Products Oil Filter Relocation Kits For your Perkins 4-108.

Online they are about $50.00 plus additional hoses if you need them.


Cost about $50.00 online complete. That includes 30 inch hoses. The hoses can be up to 72 inches long.

 

[Sven]

1113 - Trans Dapt Performance Products Oil Filter Relocation Kits For your Perkins 4-108.

Online they are about $50.00 plus additional hoses if you need them.


Cost about $50.00 online complete. That includes 30 inch hoses. The hoses can be up to 72 inches long.

Thanks Guy.

We're also moving the diesel filter and replacing it with a Racor and an electric priming pump and vacuum gauge.

-Sven

 

[mherrcat]

Speaking of oil filter relocation kits...

Several years ago I bought a Yamaha V-Star 1100 motorcycle. The previous owner had installed some optional items including an oil filter relocation kit. The original filter was internal to the engine case and the exhaust pipes had to be removed to access it for changing. There was a lot of discussion on the V-Star owners internet forum about whether the relocation kits were a good or bad thing. Some argued that the kits resulted in lower than normal oil pressure. Just wondering if that would be a concern in this case as well?