chainplate repair

ChapmanMFG

New Member
Yup, we're still around, and still in the same building since 1965 around the corner from the original garage where we started in 1936. Thanks for the tip about Good Old Boat! I'm surprised you chose the #9600 set, that's used mostly for sewing machines. What are the most common fasteners on boats? We make a 1/4" hex to 1/4" square drive adapter to use our ratchet with sockets https://chapmanmfg.com/products/1-4-drive-socket-adapter-cm-24
 

garryh

Member III
"BTW - Really LIKE the name of your Ericson!"
thanks Kerry... that's the way it came and I have grown to like it a lot : )
@Hanktoo... after doing some mental gyrations with your pics of the bend in your chainplate, I now conclude that the bend is indeed towards the stern as is mine. I was keying on the welded on tab to orient the chainplate but if I am correct from the pics and keying on the larger clevis pin hole which must be outboard, the bend in yours is indeed towards the stern. Which then implies that the tab side on yours is positioned against the cabin side of the bulkhead; I would have assumed the flat side as is mine but I guess it really does not matter since the actual tab portion is above the flat surface of the bulkhead. Can you confirm this?
Thinking further, guessing that IF a design thing, the builders would fabricate a large number of these identically and just bent them to stern as needed depending on which side was being installed and regardless of which side the tab was on.
It would be interesting to hear from any other 35-2 owners who have had chainplates replaced and if there were bends in theirs.
I have to get this chainplate replicated soon and it appears as though this slight bend in the chainplate is a design thing for alignment. IF it is due to loading on both our boats, it would seem fair to say the bend should be there in the first place!
comments..?
 

Hanktoo

Member III
sorry for not getting back, been away. Yes the bend is toward the stern, which I believe makes the alignment worse. I had new ones fabricated by Garhauer without a bend. I will likely be heading back down to boat this week to begin buildup of bulkhead and chainplate install. I have not removed the starboard side yet, but I intend to do that after I get the port side back in. I am curious to see what the starboard side chainplate looks like when it is removed, that small crack in the one I removed was right at that bend. Whew a stitch in time.
 

garryh

Member III
you think it makes the alignment worse..? I was actually going to have a bend put in mine before installing : |
I do not believe there is going to be a definitive answer to this.
but if both are bent, both boats, both stbd and port, there must be a reason for it...! either from load or by design.
beats me
 

Hanktoo

Member III
Not sure about the other side yet until i get it out. But I believe having it straight is going to help my situation. I will know much better in a few days, heading there to start the install weather permitting. Still have a lot to do beyond the chainplate (as always). I have already put new rub rails on, still need to put the end caps back on. Also have a new raw water pump (ouch). Also plan on wet sanding and giving her a good polish the oxidation is pretty heavy.
 

Hanktoo

Member III
It's in

so after removal of rotten wood. Replaced with oak, tabbed that in with 2 layers of fiberglass on both sides across to solid part of bulkhead. Then for added strength and something real solid to bolt to, I put 1/2 in mahogany plywood on the head side and epoxy that about 15 in over onto solid part of bulkhead. It will take more work to get that vanity back in and stain it all to match, but i only give up 1/2 in for all that extra strength.
Good news on the starboard side. No rot at all! It was a real bear getting that chainplate out though. No room at all in that slot in the cabin top. Real glad I only went to 1/4 in thick on the replacement chainplate. More pics when i get a chance. Scheduled to launch Thursday. Finallly!Port chainplate bolts.jpg
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
so after removal of rotten wood. Replaced with oak, tabbed that in with 2 layers of fiberglass on both sides across to solid part of bulkhead. Then for added strength and something real solid to bolt to, I put 1/2 in mahogany plywood on the head side and epoxy that about 15 in over onto solid part of bulkhead. It will take more work to get that vanity back in and stain it all to match, but i only give up 1/2 in for all that extra strength.
Good news on the starboard side. No rot at all! It was a real bear getting that chainplate out though. No room at all in that slot in the cabin top. Real glad I only went to 1/4 in thick on the replacement chainplate. More pics when i get a chance. Scheduled to launch Thursday. Finallly!View attachment 24534


Looking good - AND SOLID! ...Sounds like you've really strengthened and protected the area from further problems!

Food for thought...Since our cabinetry was totaled on removal, we opted not to reinstall the sliding doors or cabinet in favor of open shelving. On our 32, the top of the cabinet really wasn't that functional/accessible plus the cabinet didn't have all that much room in it. Here's what we came up with: Created a removable cover for the chain plate bolts to allow for periodic inspection and the top shelf is also easy to unscrew and remove.

Head shelf 5.jpgHead Shelf 6.jpg Keep those photos coming! :) - kerry
 

Hanktoo

Member III
for those following this saga, the starboard side was not bad at all. I replaced the chainplate but the bulkhead looked good. I did go with the straight chainplates, no bend at the end going above deck. My suspicion is that bend is a consequence of the weld and not a design intent. The straight seem to line up slightly better.starboard side chainplate nuts.jpg
 

garryh

Member III
definitely following : )
Just wish I could get to my bulkhead job... but life keeps messing up my boat plans : |
Did you find the stbd chainplate also bent aft..?
 

Hanktoo

Member III
yes it was also bent, but as i said after reading up on stainless steel welds, it seems distortion is common. Just doing an eyeball view of before and after I think it seems better straight although the difference is so slight I doubt it makes a difference. I am confident as I also went up in thickness on the new ones. Took your advice on the deck cover, i'll post a picture of that when i get back down to the boat.
 

garryh

Member III
all good : )
Not sure what my advice was on deck cover (as in enlarging hole in pan to make room for thicker chainplates..?)
I think that is the way I will do. And will await pics : )
 
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