Boom end sheaves replacement - The Fix on a E32-3

Bolo

Contributing Partner
I did a post about this subject earlier this month but decided to re-post a new thread so that any Ericson owners with the same problem will have an easier time of finding a solution. So I hope this was OK for me to do rather then tack it on the end of the old thread.

The Problem:
Late last summer I noticed several curved shaped pieces of white plastic in the cockpit. :confused: Piecing them together I soon realized that the fragments were what used to be a sheave. The nearest sheave to the cockpit are the reefing sheaves in the Outhaul Assembly (boom end casting). Sure enough, one sheave was gone except for the brass bushing. The other was still there but obviously well worn.

The Removal:
After using info from this site and doing some additional research on-line for a parts supplier I decided to do the fix myself especially after asking the yard about doing it. More on that later. :mad: I live about 2 hours from the boat but check on it every month during the winter months. So I was prepared for a struggle in getting the boom end off because it's a "good olde boat" and things sometimes don't want to come apart easily. But it turned out to be easy on my E-32-3. First pull out the reefing lines, ease out the topping lift to drop the boom and then disconnect the topping lift. It helps to have a second pair of hands to hold the boom (my wife in my case) and I dropped the boom onto the dodger framing. Three screws, one on each side and one on the bottom, and then use a rubber mallet to tap (not pound) the end out from the boom.The insert is 1-1/2" into the boom. Easy. :)

Back home with the boom end on the work bench carefully look at the axle/pin that holds the sheaves in the casting. You may even want to use a magnifying glass to locate which end of the axle has a knurled end. In my case the knurled end was on the starboard side of the outhaul assembly. Then squirt, several times, anything like "PB Blaster" which is what I use to unfreeze stubborn bolts. Patience is the word here when doing this part. Squirt some around the axle end and allow it to soak in and then turn it over and do the same on the other side. Then repeat a few more times. I then put the outhaul assembly into my big vise (You can never have a vise thats too big) with the non-knurled end of the axle pointing DOWN. Use a drift pin or some other sturdy metal rod that you can use to tap out the axle FROM THE TOP. I used a rod that was part of my socket set with turned out to be a smaller diameter then the hole and long enough to tap the axle all the way out. Here is what I found after getting the rod out. One bushing (what was left of the shattered sheave) and one very worn sheave. In the next photo you can see how the old sheave compares to a new one. The old one actually has a smaller diameter! :0
IMG_1269.jpg

IMG_1270.jpg

The Parts:
This site gave me info for two parts supplies, Zepherworks and Rig-Rite. I chose Rig-Rite because they had OEM parts of my Kenyon boom. The Rig-Rite site ins't what I would call "user friendly" but I was able to identify my boom and parts for it. Here is the web page that I found for the sheaves I needed: http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Kenyon_Spars/3550-Boom.php

After some time on the site I found that my boom section is a "3550" type and the outhaul assembly is part number K-11472. Referring to the web page you'll see that there are also parts for the assembly including the reefing sheaves, among other things, and the number for that is K-10347. Only way to order parts is to call so I ended up talking to Megan who set me up with two reefing sheaves. The parts (and shipping) which I received in less then two days came to $91. Seems like a lot but the sheaves were a exact match and came quickly.

The Fix:
So with the new sheaves in-hand I cleaned up the knurled axle and applied some oil. The center metal topping lift sheave was in good shape even though it has some wear on the outside surfaces so I re-used it.

IMG_1272.jpg

Clamping the outhaul casting in the vise again I positioned the sheaves in place in the casting. Then inserting the non-knurled end of the axle in first I tapped the axle through the casting. Here is a shot of the casting with two of the three sheaves in place and the axle pin in and ready for tapping.

IMG_1273.jpg

The Problem:
After I tapped the pin home I noticed that one of the reefing sheaves was very difficult to turn. So I tapped the axle out again and "slightly" sanded down the center brass bushing and some of the surrounding center part of the sheave. I did this with my Dremel tool. Re-intalled the axle and sheave and checked to make sure all the sheaves turned free.

The Finish:
All that is left to do is another trip to the boat to re-install the outhaul assembly, reeve the reefing lines over the new sheaves and attached the topping lift. All in all from the removal to the re-install this fix will probably total about one hour. When I originally noticed the problem I called the yard at my marina to take a look and give me an estimate. They said that they could not give me and estimate because they didn't know what sort of "problems" they might encounter and this is the RIGGING department! :mad: They wanted to charge at time ($150/ hour) and materials. :0 Another reason to learn how to fix your own boat no matter how much money you have or how inexperienced you might think you are to carry out this sort of work. Here's a look at the final fix before re-installing it on the boat.

IMG_1275.jpg
 
Last edited:

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Very useful and a great contribution.

So I hope this was OK for me to do rather then tack it on the end of the old thread.

Either way is good. You can also add a referral link on the old thread to this one (which I did).

Most important: Your specific title will making Google searching possible for everyone.
 
Last edited:

goldenstate

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
Requesting one point of clarification:

I have removed my boom and seek to disassemble the rear axle/sheave component for the purposes of replacing the broken sheaves. I have located the knurled end of my pin. Bob, (above) says that the non knurled end of the axle should point down.

Am I correct then, that I should be striking the knurled end of the axle/pin in order to drive out the (presumably larger) non-knurled end out the other side? I want to make sure I am doing this correctly, as I hammer the decades-old corroded metal.

Thank you.
 

goldenstate

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
I did a little more research and resolved my question. One does not hit the knurled end of the pin in order to remove it.


I had to look up what knurled meant when I read Bob's explanation. Knurls are the vertical ridges impressed into the axle pin. It is difficult to see which end of your pin has ridges, but of the two I could see, the end of the axle that was closer to the outside of the boom end had knurls visible. Here is a bit of a blurry photo.
IMG_7687.JPG


By squeezing in these ridges, the pin maker makes that portion of the axle pin slightly larger. So, if you are removing the pin, you want to strike the end of the pin OPPOSITE the knurls. I used a carriage bolt, encouraged by PB blaster and a hammer. Once I was hitting the correct side of the pin, it was freed relatively easily:

IMG_7688.JPG

So, for future users, for whom knurled pins are a new concept consider:

IMG_7690.JPG

Also, I would add that I tapped out the pin while the cast aluminum end piece was still lodged in the boom. My the boom held the piece much more securely than if I had removed it and then tried to screw it into my small bench vise. Now on to dismantling the rest of the boom.
 

MarineCityBrian

Apprentice Tinkerer
For what it's worth for those in the southeast Michigan region, Thomas Hardware will make custom Delrin sheaves (with oil impregnated bronze bushings) for fair prices. Just give them your old sheave and you get back a virtual copy made in Delrin. I did this with my original wire sheaves for the halyards (in addition to adding a center sheave for a jib halyard and reserving the outer two for Port and starboard Spinnaker) and I think paid under $100 for the lot. They are solid, so they may be slightly heavier than the originals (mine went from metal to Delrin, so I actually may have saved weight... Not sure if the density comparison offhand) but they're certainly robust. 6 seasons with them thus far and they look perfect and still roll quite freely. In addition to bringing them the sheave it also helps to bring them the pin the sheave rides on. That was about the only issue I had was at first the sheaves rode too tightly on the pin. I brought them the pin, and they reamed the bushings ok the sheaves and now they roll very smoothly.
 

goldenstate

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
@MarineCityBrian Thanks for the tip! I checked with RigRite and with https://www.zephyrwerks.com/ on sheave availability and pricing.

It seems Zephyrwerks is a guy named Ed in Washington state and he was very responsive and shipped the new sheaves off to me yesterday. His pricing was a little better than RigRite. I am replacing both of my rear outhaul sheaves and my front guide sheaves at the same time. I'll file an update when complete.
 

MarineCityBrian

Apprentice Tinkerer
One thing I'll add with Thomas Hardware - for getting these sheaves you'll need to wait a bit. My understanding is they've basically got a friend with a lathe and some Delrin stock, but depending on their schedule they likely won't be next-day turn-around. In my experience they needed to order more Delrin stock and were waiting for that to come in. So best saved as a winter project (which was my case), but I can say the workmanship, materials and durability are top notch.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Knurled pins

For what it's worth, plastic knurled pins are the pivot of Lewmar hatches of the Ericson era.

It is important to drive them out from the non-knurled end, which took me a while at first to figure out.
 
Last edited:
Top