Best way to secure nylon anchor rode to avoid chafe

[southofvictor]

I’ve been struggling to find a good way to secure my nylon anchor rode to avoid chafe. Without finding a good way to lead the rode from my roller to the either bow cleat, I’ve usually use a snubber line run outboard from the bow cleat and attached to the rode with a rolling hitch. Here’s a photo with some markup.

Either way I try to snub the rode directly onto a bow cleat from the roller it either chafes against the pulpit as shown by the blue line or against the bow roller fitting corner as shown by the yellow one. The green line shows the way my snubber usually runs over the starboard side.

What are other folks using to handle this? I have a manual S-L Anchorman vertical windlass just aft of the locker lid which offers plenty of jib sheet snagging opportunities by itself so I don’t really want to add another hard point there. I feel like there’s a straightforward answer out there somewhere that I’m missing. Anyone have ideas to share?

Thanks!

 

[ConchyDug]

I cleat the nylon rode outside the anchor roller directly to a cleat then snub using a pusik 6-8' down the rode which gets attached to the other cleat. Nothing loaded runs thru or over the roller. It looks like a Y bridle viewed from above but nothing passes thru the roller. For retrieval you just ease the snubber and pull it back thru the roller, cleat it and then ease the rode, then haul the rode in. I have a completely manual system like gloves on hands manual.

 

[Frank Langer]

I’ve been struggling to find a good way to secure my nylon anchor rode to avoid chafe. Without finding a good way to lead the rode from my roller to the either bow cleat, I’ve usually use a snubber line run outboard from the bow cleat and attached to the rode with a rolling hitch. Here’s a photo with some markup.

Either way I try to snub the rode directly onto a bow cleat from the roller it either chafes against the pulpit as shown by the blue line or against the bow roller fitting corner as shown by the yellow one. The green line shows the way my snubber usually runs over the starboard side.

What are other folks using to handle this? I have a manual S-L Anchorman vertical windlass just aft of the locker lid which offers plenty of jib sheet snagging opportunities by itself so I don’t really want to add another hard point there. I feel like there’s a straightforward answer out there somewhere that I’m missing. Anyone have ideas to share?

Thanks!

View attachment 49390

I have a somewhat unorthodox method, but it works for me, shares the load between both bow cleats and avoids chafe.
I bring the anchor rode over the bow roller and tie it off on the port bow cleat. I then bring the rode across to the starboard cleat, and around that cleat, then I bring it across the bow looping it under the rode and back to the starboard cleat, where I tie it off. This pulls the rode into the centre of the bow, and shares the load between the cleats.
Picture the rode coming over the roller, then splitting to the port and starboard cleats.
There is no chafe, load is shared, captain (me) is happy.
Frank

 

[southofvictor]

I knew I was missing a simple solution. Just grab the rode from ahead of the roller instead of after it’s run through. Thanks Doug!

 

[southofvictor]

I have a somewhat unorthodox method, but it works for me and shares the load between both bow cleats.
I bring the anchor rode over the bow roller and tie it off on the port bow cleat. I then bring the rode across to the starboard cleat, and around that cleat, then I bring it across the bow looping it under the rode and back to the starboard cleat, where I tie it off. This pulls the rode into the centre of the bow, and shares the load between the cleats.
Picture the rode coming over the roller, then splitting to the port and starboard cleats.
There is no chafe, load is shared, captain (me) is happy.

I thought of rigging something like you describe Frank, but thought that it would either chafe where the lines cross if I allowed it to run free or weaken the line if I put a hitch in it somehow. How do you avoid chafe where the lines cross? Don’t you get movement when the bow rises and falls?

 

[Christian Williams]

If I anchored much, I would install a bridle on the rode so both bow cleats could be used.

For chafe conditions, I carry pieces of old fire hose, split, to install in the fairleads. A bridle could have them built in. They do have to be lashed to the line, and they have to fit into the fairleads, which restricts their thickness.

Anchoring in waves, or deploying a sea anchor in storm conditions, can cause the rode to lift out of any open fairlead. I have never found a solution to that.

 

[Frank Langer]

I thought of rigging something like you describe Frank, but thought that it would either chafe where the lines cross if I allowed it to run free or weaken the line if I put a hitch in it somehow. How do you avoid chafe where the lines cross? Don’t you get movement when the bow rises and falls?

No, I don't get any chafe from the bow rising/falling. I think that's because the rode goes easily over the smooth bow roller, and the rode sections to the cleats are pulled tight, so no chafe.
Next time I'm at anchor, likely in April, I'll try to remember to post a pic of this arrangement, which would make it easier to understand.
Frank

 

[Bolo]

I’ve been struggling to find a good way to secure my nylon anchor rode to avoid chafe

After studying the bow image of your 32-200 and comparing it to my 32-3 bow I was surprised to see that they were similar but different considering that they are close “cousins”. Photo below is one from my windlass installation blog but you can see the difference in the construction especially that the forward vertical sections of your bow pulpit are closer together than on my boat which results in a shallower angle to the starboard cleat for tying off the rode. I’ve worried a little about chafing at the pulpit but never saw any evidence of it occurring. I think it’s because of the roundness of the tubing and its smooth surface. So my question to you is, have you seen chaffing in the rode because of the pulpit or is this just a worry and precaution? Which is OK because we all angst about one thing or another on our boats all the time! At least I do.

 

[jtsai]

I wrap a piece of fire hose on the rode with zip ties and tie to the starboard bow cleat. 1' long in a protected anchorage. 3' long if I made a bad choice on the anchorage. I would much rather alter the trip itinerary than have a restless 3' long fire hose night.

Remove the inner rubber layer if the old fire hose comes with it. I read the rubber layer generates heat under constant friction and can compromise the integrity of the nylon rode and set our fiberglass boat on fire (just kidding).

 

[Alan Gomes]

I cleat the nylon rode outside the anchor roller directly to a cleat then snub using a pusik 6-8' down the rode which gets attached to the other cleat. Nothing loaded runs thru or over the roller. It looks like a Y bridle viewed from above but nothing passes thru the roller. For retrieval you just ease the snubber and pull it back thru the roller, cleat it and then ease the rode, then haul the rode in. I have a completely manual system like gloves on hands manual.

Here's a picture of how I do it, also using a Prusik hitch. One end attaches to the rode with the Prusik hitch and a bridle passes through the other end of the loop. The ends of the bridle then go to the P and S cleats, outside of the pulpit legs, roller, etc.

Although you could readily make your own loop of of line just using a knot (or a splice, if you are ambitious), I splurged and bought a ready-made Prusik loop with a carabiner. It was inexpensive and a bit more elegant, I thought. (Though you can't tell from the photo below, which is cut off at the right, the line is in a continuous loop.)

 

[jtsai]

Bob, does your anchor swivel shown in your picture able to pass through the anchor roller without snagging at deployment and retrieval?

 

[southofvictor]

my question to you is, have you seen chaffing in the rode because of the pulpit or is this just a worry and precaution?

Just a worry and precaution, especially because it seems to run over the edge of the base fitting as well as the round pulpit tube.

 

[southofvictor]

Here's a picture of how I do it, also using a Prusik hitch. One end attaches to the rode with the Prusik hitch and a bridle passes through the other end of the loop. The ends of the bridle then go to the P and S cleats, outside of the pulpit legs, roller, etc.

That’s a pretty sweet looking setup, and you could even set up a second prussik if conditions were particularly nasty, lthough it could be tough to get the tension right. I know that in rescue rigging double prussiks are often used to increase breaking strength of the rope by distributing the load across more of the line.

 

[N.A.]

This thread is very useful; I have been contemplating the same question.

FWIW, as a former climber, I might suggest and alternative to prusicks. Prusicks depend entirely on gripping friction, and when they slip under high load they can actually quickly (in a foot or so) generate enough heat to melt through the mantle and into the core of the line (I have personally witnessed this; I had to tear the melted prusick off the larger line). Further, unless you are careful / use especially fancy line, the smaller-diameter prusick line lowers the total breaking strength of the overall rode/line (and they do have to be smaller diameter than the main line to grip properly.) Prusicks are fine for lower-load, non safety critical things -- impromptu ascenders (where there is some belayed backup), rigging a line to relieve an override on a winch that is still under load, rigging a pully/carabiner for tackle for crew-overboard retrieval. Not for belay though... or, I would think, anchoring in bad weather.

For an anchor, I was planning to use a "butterfly knot" -- that knot could for instance easily be placed, e.g., in @Alan Gomes 's rig imaged above. The butterfly knot is extremely easy to tie (easier than a bowline) and due to its high symmetry it is easy to tell if it is right even when one is tired/stressed, and it can be tied quickly at any point in a line. Used in the rig in the picture, it would remove the need for the prusick. Using two, one in the rode and one in the "V" line, connected by a carabiner(s), would prevent the carabiner from sliding back and forth on the line, which seems like it would contribute to chafe over time.

Anyway, I had been thinking of using a length of chain between the two bow cleats (chafe thus not an issue, shackled or caranbinered to a butterfly knot in the rode.
* Unsure how to secure mid-chain; seems like that might place stress on the link in the wrong directions. Maybe two lengths of chain, one to each cleat?)

If you are interested, the butterfly knot is easiest to tie NOT by wrapping around your hand, as shown in many pictures, but instead by making two twists, then passing the top of the loop around the standing part and back through the middle of the twist. Super fast to do; here's an image:

Butterfly loop - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[Bolo]

Bob, does your anchor swivel shown in your picture able to pass through the anchor roller without snagging at deployment and retrieval?

Yes. It stainless steel as you can see in the photo. Gotta get to work cleaning those stains off the bow! Here’s the link to the type I bought but not sure if I got it from WM or Defender. https://www.westmarine.com/lewmar-stainless-anchor-swivel-1-4inch-5-16inch-18554014.html

 

[southofvictor]

Thanks for sharing that, I’ve always done tied the butterfly around my hand but that looks pretty simple.

 

[peaman]

Bob, does your anchor swivel shown in your picture able to pass through the anchor roller without snagging at deployment and retrieval?

I have the same fitting. Never a problem with deployment, but in retrieval, sometimes the anchor will not be oriented correctly to easily cross the roller. If I had a windlass, it might not really matter, but as I don't, so in those instances, I need to manipulate the anchor or chain in some way to get the swivel, and then the anchor, up and over.

 

[Bolo]

I have the same fitting. Never a problem with deployment, but in retrieval, sometimes the anchor will not be oriented correctly to easily cross the roller. If I had a windlass, it might not really matter, but as I don't, so in those instances, I need to manipulate the anchor or chain in some way to get the swivel, and then the anchor, up and over.

To illustrate what you’d described, another video! Go to time stamp 7:22 where I’m retrieving the anchor and you can see that it’s not oriented properly to go into the anchor roller. I use a manual windlass and in situations where the anchor isn’t oriented right the manual gives me good control in getting it spun around into the correct position without much fuss because it’s slower. At least thats my theory and I’m stick to it.

 

[nquigley]

I have the same fitting. Never a problem with deployment, but in retrieval, sometimes the anchor will not be oriented correctly to easily cross the roller. If I had a windlass, it might not really matter, but as I don't, so in those instances, I need to manipulate the anchor or chain in some way to get the swivel, and then the anchor, up and over.

I also have the same swivel connection (by Maxwell). I have a Vulcan Rocna anchor (curved shank - no roll-bar), which likes to hang in the wrong orientation when trying to get the end of the shank over the bow roller. I have to give the anchor a kick to turn it so I can get it over the roller.
I was reading recently that this problem might be lessened (mitigated?) by putting 2-3 chain links between the swivel and the shank - haven't tried that, but definitely will soon.

 

[Bolo]

I also have the same swivel connection (by Maxwell). I have a Vulcan Rocna anchor (curved shank - no roll-bar), which likes to hang in the wrong orientation when trying to get the end of the shank over the bow roller. I have to give the anchor a kick to turn it so I can get it over the roller.
I was reading recently that this problem might be lessened (mitigated?) by putting 2-3 chain links between the swivel and the shank - haven't tried that, but definitely will soon.

That sounds like a very good solution.