Best way to locate source of leaking

[bsangs]

But I would prioritize the seahood. I had lots of water getting in for the reasons you mentioned.

Before I go tearing things apart, I'd like to touch on this seahood issue again. As you can - hopefully - tell from the photo here, the sliding hatch is always covered on my boat. That dodger doesn't get removed. The window is always down when not sailing, unless of course there's no rain. So the sliding hatch never takes on any water, and where it slides back into the sea hood is always covered as well. The sea hood displays no cracks or damage. Can I rule that out as a potential ingress area with this being the case? (And yes, I'm aware those hatch boards need some work done. )

 

[Loren Beach]

The sliding hatch itself, when closed, may well be covered by canvas, but the whole front 2/3 of the sea hood aka "hatch garage" is exposed to the elements. So, all of the old screw penetrations thru it can leak and seep water into the cabin top beneath. Pull the sea hood, and ovedrill/epoxy/re-drill for those screws. Unless your dodger actually covers the whole sea hood clear to the front of it, but I have not seen one like that.

 

[bigd14]

I have the same setup with dodger. It's the portion in front of the dodger that the hatch slides under that is the problem area. These blogs document the removal and rebedding:

E30-3 - Seahood Leak Repair Part 1- Removal

I have suffered leaks from the screws holding the seahood down for years. I applied Gorilla tape over them which lasted a couple years but finally failed this past winter. So time to dive into it. I have wondered for years what exactly I would...

ericsonyachts.org

E30-3 - Seahood Leak Repair Part 2- Cleanup and Reinstallation

The seahood is back on and sealed up. I took the seahood home and tried to remove the traveler from it. The screws came out more easily than expected. They were only engaged about one turn in the aluminum plate embedded in the seahood. With the...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[bsangs]

I have the same setup with dodger. It's the portion in front of the dodger that the hatch slides under that is the problem area. These blogs document the removal and rebedding:

E30-3 - Seahood Leak Repair Part 1- Removal

I have suffered leaks from the screws holding the seahood down for years. I applied Gorilla tape over them which lasted a couple years but finally failed this past winter. So time to dive into it. I have wondered for years what exactly I would...

ericsonyachts.org

E30-3 - Seahood Leak Repair Part 2- Cleanup and Reinstallation

The seahood is back on and sealed up. I took the seahood home and tried to remove the traveler from it. The screws came out more easily than expected. They were only engaged about one turn in the aluminum plate embedded in the seahood. With the...

ericsonyachts.org

Ugh. Since I'm already planning to do the grab rails and the SS mast plate, I might try your Gorilla Tape approach on the "hatch garage" - nice one @Loren Beach - for the upcoming season. I have multiple cruising treks planned starting in late May and going through September, so I can't have her out of commission too long. You just slap the tape over the holes, or run it down the entire length of the hood? Thanks for the links. Great job fixing her up, btw.

 

[bigd14]

Yeah the gorilla tape worked for awhile. We put long pieces over all the exposed seams and screws. The rebedding was a bit of a chore, and took place over three days.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Hi Brian,
This is another look inside an E35-3 sea hood, to supplement Nick's. About half the screws holding the hood down were self-tapping and half were machine screws. As I recall, the long machine screws holding the traveler to those towers were kind of a pain to get out.

I took it out to swap out fuel tanks and put it back in with butyl tape because I think it's going to need to come off again in a few years to replace the traveler.
There are some more comments and pics around this as part of this project:
- https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/e35-3-replacing-fuel-tank.17731/page-2

Tape sounds like a good plan to get you through the 2024 season.
Bonne chance,
Jeff

 

[bsangs]

Hi Brian,
This is another look inside an E35-3 sea hood, to supplement Nick's. About half the screws holding the hood down were self-tapping and half were machine screws. As I recall, the long machine screws holding the traveler to those towers were kind of a pain to get out.

I took it out to swap out fuel tanks and put it back in with butyl tape because I think it's going to need to come off again in a few years to replace the traveler.
There are some more comments and pics around this as part of this project:
- https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/e35-3-replacing-fuel-tank.17731/page-2

Tape sounds like a good plan to get you through the 2024 season.
Bonne chance,
Jeff

Thanks Jeff. You know, none of these pictures and descriptions you've all been nice enough to share are making me want to do it!

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Thanks Jeff. You know, none of these pictures and descriptions you've all been nice enough to share are making me want to do it!

Tape.

 

[bigd14]

Tape

Mine lasted about two years. Nothing wrong with kicking the can down the road in favor of sailing. If you do it well the black tape strips will complement your dodger and deck paint scheme.

 

[bsangs]

Mine lasted about two years. Nothing wrong with kicking the can down the road in favor of sailing. If you do it well the black tape strips will complement your dodger and deck paint scheme.

Oh I'm gonna use the clear Gorilla Tape. I'm fancy like that.

 

[bigd14]

Oh I'm gonna use the clear Gorilla Tape. I'm fancy like that.

Wow, next level! My roll of black gorilla tape suddenly looks quite pedestrian.