Now that it has been up for a while somebody here asked if I'd post how I put in an inexpensive solar system. We have two small fans and a 35L fridge that are left on at all times and only 2 AGM batteries to support them. Because I already had the 100W panels the entire system was under $200 and this has proven to be more than enough to keep our 12V system up.
The panels are the flexible type and flex kills them so they were glued to 1/2" thick Azek (expanded PVC). The Azek was first extensively drilled to both reduce weight and provide cooling to the back of the panels. At some point when these fail they will be replaced with non-flexible panels.
The aluminum framework is made from very sturdy office cubicle connectors (free) which are powder coated aluminum.
Hardest part was committing to drilling a big hole in the deck for the trolling motor plug. By using this rather than the usual solar fittings the bimini can be removed and the panels are easy to replace.
This project only added 28 lbs to the bimini, the tubing in the area of each hole was filled to restore strength where holes were drilled, and each panel is slightly tilted to minimize wind being able to wind getting underneath. They're still solid after some 60-ish mph winds following tornadoes in the area.
If the amps are kept low enough to not stress the individual components then I have no problem using less expensive components, especially in something as secondary as this. My breakers are properly sized to the wire which can take FAR more than those two 100W panels can put out. (You size breakers according to wire gauge, NOT to the size of whatever component is at the end of the wire. You then make sure the components will not need more than the amps the wire can deliver. )
I happened to have 10AWG wire on hand so used it because the max current the system can put out is only slightly over 17A. (2x8ft=16ft circuit) If/when we someday increase solar panel wattage in the future the 10AWG would need to be replaced.
The panels are the flexible type and flex kills them so they were glued to 1/2" thick Azek (expanded PVC). The Azek was first extensively drilled to both reduce weight and provide cooling to the back of the panels. At some point when these fail they will be replaced with non-flexible panels.
The aluminum framework is made from very sturdy office cubicle connectors (free) which are powder coated aluminum.
Hardest part was committing to drilling a big hole in the deck for the trolling motor plug. By using this rather than the usual solar fittings the bimini can be removed and the panels are easy to replace.
This project only added 28 lbs to the bimini, the tubing in the area of each hole was filled to restore strength where holes were drilled, and each panel is slightly tilted to minimize wind being able to wind getting underneath. They're still solid after some 60-ish mph winds following tornadoes in the area.
If the amps are kept low enough to not stress the individual components then I have no problem using less expensive components, especially in something as secondary as this. My breakers are properly sized to the wire which can take FAR more than those two 100W panels can put out. (You size breakers according to wire gauge, NOT to the size of whatever component is at the end of the wire. You then make sure the components will not need more than the amps the wire can deliver. )
I happened to have 10AWG wire on hand so used it because the max current the system can put out is only slightly over 17A. (2x8ft=16ft circuit) If/when we someday increase solar panel wattage in the future the 10AWG would need to be replaced.
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