Algae in tank

907Juice

Continuously learning
Hey all, soooo.... I took my boat out for it's maiden voyage yesterday and 1/2 tank means empty and needed a tow back... I sucked the bottom my my tank and it had a bunch of algae and water in the tank. It seems additives are like a dime a dozen and looking for advice. I am in Alaska and plan on using the boat most of the summer but it sits for most of the winter. I am heading down to the boat in a few days and am bringing fresh fuel and gonna flush the fuel lines.

Myquestion is that I'm looking for some advice on fuel stabilizers or additives to kill the algae and keep it from growing back. Any help is welcomed. Thanks all!

juice
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi,

I have a diesel engine and a 25 gallon fuel tank. I try to keep the tank full as much as possible year round (I sail in the winter too), and will top it up even if it only needs a few gallons to minimize condensation which adds water to the fuel tank. At each fill I add a bit of Biobar, which fights algae and some Stanadyne Performance additive which lubricates the injectors, enhances cetane value and is generally good for the engine I'm told.

I have a primary filter and a secondary fuel filter which I replace about every 150 engine hours, and I always carry a spare for both in case it's needed sooner, though I have never had to change either one underway. I also try to buy diesel fuel from a reputable marina, preferably one that gets lots of business so I know they get new fuel regularly, and preferably one where the commercial fishermen go because I figure they wouldn't put up with poor fuel.

I have done this since we bought our boat ten years ago and have never had a fuel issue, even though I have sailed in rough weather which would stir up any gunk in the tank and clog the fuel filters--so far, so good, keeping my fingers crossed.

You probably lay your boat up for the winter in Alaska. I've heard that you can either fill the tank with fuel and add a stabilizer, or drain it completely for the winter.

I'm sure others will add their comments as this is a common concern.

Frank
 
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Plus one on Frank's advice, and if the deck fill is over 10 or 15 years old, replace the rubber O ring in the cap. A tiny bit of seepage from rain, over time, really adds up.

Loren
 

frick

Member III
There is Algae in my Tank

Plus one on Frank's advice, and if the deck fill is over 10 or 15 years old, replace the rubber O ring in the cap. A tiny bit of seepage from rain, over time, really adds up.

Loren

You will always get some moisture in your tank... When the temps change you tank will breath. That means sea air and humidity. Keeping your tank full lowers the amount of condensation on the inside of the tank...

Water is heaver than diesel so it will sink to the bottom. The Algae grows in the water. When you add the motion of the Ocean it stirs up the Algae into your fuel. That in turns can plug up your primary filters very quickly.

Here my long time solutions that I try every spring:

1: Use the crank case Oil sucking pump to vacuum the bottom of your tank and remove any water. So you waste a few quarts of fuel...that way cheaper than a new filter. I have known some who "scrub" their Diesel fuel bay pumping their tank over and over through a Racor water separator and filter. It works but is not cheap.

2: Check the Racor filter for any water and any dark sentiment (algae). especially if you been rolling in the ocean.

Prevention is the key...
1: Keep the water out of the fuel cap. I have even used waterproof winch grease to help seal the fill cap threads.
2: Keep you tanks full
3: Always use a Biocide in your fuel to stop the Algae before it grows.

Rick+
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
A boat needs its fuel tank cleaned every 30 years or so. That means inspection ports or a new tank.

Life with the original tank is not something to worry about, just be ready to change filters and bleed the lines at an awkward moment during a family cruise. Work out the drill first in the slip or mooring, collect the tools, spares, baby diapers and so on. Filter changing is messy at sea, and recharging the lines and getting air out can be awkward. If the primary filter assembly is also factory era, it probably needs replacing too--everybody worries about the lift pump, but ancient Racor screw-on units are often the cause of pesky air leaks. It's just good to feel confident you know what to do when the diesel sputters and dies at just the wrong time.

For offshore work, with its long-term agitation, a clean tank is mandatory.
 

907Juice

Continuously learning
Thanks guys! I'm heading down Friday to do some more work on the boat. I didn't even think to check to see if the fuel gauge worked... Glad I ultimately ran out of gas about a quarter mile from the harbor and on the way back. Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to keep it topped off from now on with some additives. I'll also check the cap and tank out.
 
Similar issue: new-old E38 with gunge at bottom of fuel tank.

Hey all, soooo.... I took my boat out for it's maiden voyage yesterday and 1/2 tank means empty and needed a tow back... I sucked the bottom my my tank and it had a bunch of algae and water in the tank. It seems additives are like a dime a dozen and looking for advice. I am in Alaska and plan on using the boat most of the summer but it sits for most of the winter. I am heading down to the boat in a few days and am bringing fresh fuel and gonna flush the fuel lines.

Myquestion is that I'm looking for some advice on fuel stabilizers or additives to kill the algae and keep it from growing back. Any help is welcomed. Thanks all!

juice

I just re-conditioned the fuel sender (yes it can be done) and while re-inserting it into the tank inadvertently had it touch bottom...very spongy feel, so I think there is probably mucho-gunge waiting to be removed. I plan to cut an access hatch in the plywood over the tank, then drill-cut a 5" access hole in the tank to be able to get my hand down into the empty tank and physically remove the gunge and then scrub the tank clean. I will have a machine shop create a 6" cover plate and make my own gasket to finish the job. I have done this once before with an E-35 tank that I removed for the task (problem was the tank had been used with a gas- Atomic 4 and the engine replaced with an M25 diesel...varnish breaking off the walls of the tank kept clogging the filters). As far as additives I have always used Biobor, and for cleaning fuel lines and pump/injectors I run 1/2 gallon of 50/50 clean diesel with Seafoam...seems to help.
 

Jenkins

Member II
i would clean the tank - otherwise you are in for a long cycle of fiter changing, line bleeding, etc... as the crud slowly works it way from the tank into your fuel system.

I just recommissioned an old boat and neglected to clean the tank. spent a week figuring out what the problem was, plugged all my brand new filters, etc....

however, i should qualify this by saying it only took me 1/2 hour to pull the tank (E29) sothe decision to clean was pretty easy.

congrats on the new boat!

peter
 

TakeFive

Member II
Fuel inspection port is a necessity for cleaning the tank.

I set up a fuel polisher with a used Holley Red electric fuel pump and a used Racor 500.
Put one end in the inspection port and the other end in the fill tube, and let it run all day.
Took out a lot of suspended sediment and water, and I now have a spare racor that I could setup on a manifold as Christian has,
although that would deprive me of the fun of changing filters and bleeding the system in a heavy seaway.

As other have mentioned, a full tank and some biobor will keep fuel good once you have cleaned the tank.
I used a borescope to inspect my tank, and discovered baffles that precluded a hand or brush cleaning.
I just poured in a quart of acetone and used the fuel polisher as a hose to clean everything. Best I could do at the time.

-Gary
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I have always kept fuel tanks full, against condensation. So does everybody I know. But of course, none of us has ever tested the notion. We infer from similar experiences, which is the way reasoning works.

So: the most reasonable thing to do is not to read this actual test by the ultra-curious and ever-studious R.C. Collins, aka Maine Sail.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/fuel_tankt_condensation
 
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