1982 E-38 rudder grease fittings and leak

[Dferr]

While in the process of replacing my hot water heater, I was poking around and found two grease fittings on the the rudder tower. One up top, and one down low. The lower fitting was very badly rusted, and as I tried to remove it, of course it broke.

I'm not planning on dropping the rudder this year, so there's no way for me to drill and tap for a new one.

My concern is, at times I'm sure this fitting is below the water line and could be a small leak problem.

I also found a small leak coming from one of the two outer cockpit drain hoses. These hoses come down from the cockpit floor, crisscross right in front of and against the rudder tower and are a low spot, where water can freeze and possibly crack the hose, and must have done so. The water is dripping and running right down the rudder tower and right on to that grease fitting.

This probably explains some of the excessive water in the blige this past season also.

 

[Rocinante33]

Don,

Can you try to use an "Easy-Out" to get the remnant of the grease fitting out? Soak it with PB Blaster (or something else) first to loosen the rusty threads. An Easy-out is used with a tap handle to unscrew broken bolts.

 

[Dferr]

I would have to drill it first befor using an easy-out. That means I would probably want to drop the rudder so I don't drill into the rudder shaft itself.
As I said, I really don't want to drop the rudder this year, I have started too many projects as it is!!
Thanks for the suggestion anyway!

 

[Charles]

E38 Rudder Post grease fittings

Don,

We used to own hull # 64 (E38-1982), and it also had these fittings. When we bought the boat in 1988 in Long Beach, it was a YOUNG six years old, and the fittings were still in good shape, although covered with grime and basically invisible unless you knew where to look. I don't think the previous owner every greased them though, as there was a little too much play at the lower bearing. I later dropped the rudder to change the bearing, because the slight clunk occassionally heard down there would occur when the boat was trimmed well enough to almost unload the rudder. Don Kohlman (spelling ?) at Ericson told me on the phone back then that there was a slight undersizing to the rudder post, that wasn't intentional, and that the stock being used (schedule # for the stainless steel post) wasn't exactly right for the bronze brearings Ericson had made. This was an older boat problem, he said. I bought a new bearing from them, and cut and then peeled-chissled the old one out, and replaced it, but did not try to preserve the grease fittings (which I think was quite a nice feature).

Fast forward to 1999, and our 12 year old 1987 E-38-200 (#234) was purchased in Los Alimitos Ca. It has no rudder play to speak of, and no grease fittings either.

Charlie

 

[newgringo]

Rudder Post Lubrication E32-3

This is probably a little late. We also found the same corroded lower Zerc on our E32-3. After verifying it was above the water line I drilled and tapped the fiber glass post for a new Zerc at the same elevation. I sealed the new Zerc in the new threads with epoxy glue. Pumped in lots of grease. I think the grease goes in between the two rudder post bearings. Anyhow, It steers nice and smooth.

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

On my '89 E-38 the fitting was rusted as well. I drilled and installed a new one needed a 10-28 tap for the zirc, just did this last week. You can do it with the rudder installed. There is a 1/2 void between the rudder tube and the rudder post in that area which is between the upper and lower bearing. You will drill through about 5/8" of glass then his the void before hitting the rudder post. I have pumped in 2 full tubes of grease and have not filled the cavity yet...

 

[oldworld]

What kind of grease are you using?

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

I dont have the tube around to see the brand but it is a waterproof grease similar to what came with the max-prop kit.

 

[Loren Beach]

http://www.pyiinc.com/?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=LU130&sn=4

Contact PYI and they will sell you their light-viscosilty grease for their feathering props (and for my Martec featherer, too!).
Note that you do have to load it into your grease gun.

They are nice folks to deal with and will advise even those of us with a competitor's prop -- the hallmark of a good small company in a niche market where the competitors are all pretty much on a first name basis.


Loren

 

[oldworld]

Thanks Ted and Loren, I'm on it.

 

[u079721]

http://www.pyiinc.com/?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=LU130&sn=4

Contact PYI and they will sell you their light-viscosilty grease for their feathering props (and for my Martec featherer, too!).
Note that you do have to load it into your grease gun.

Loren

This grease is good stuff - specially made to be waterproof, but low enough in viscosity to allow the gears in the prop to work easily (I used it every season on my Max Prop).

Just thought I would point out that there is a special grease gun made that works directly with these type of tubes. Just look for a "Dualco Short Nozzle Grease Gun for Threaded Grease Tubes", and swap the needle nose fitting for a standard zerc hose.

 

[sleepingsquirrel]

removing broken fittings or bolts

HI,
If you can get to the remainder of this fitting with a drill. There are left-handed drill bits which will often grab the broken fitting or bolt and because the drill is running lefty-loosey will turn it out.
I get these left-handed bits from Harbor Freight, cheap , and I have purchased high quality left-handed bits from machinist tool and die supply ,not cheap.
I always use this trick first because I often find that easy-outs just expand the drilled bolt or fitting finally requiring a drill and tap with lots of depth. I also think that the heat of drilling helps loosen the corrosion.

Bob Russell
Summerwinds
Ericson 35