1970 E 30 stuffing box question

[Paul Matthews]

I recently inherited a 1970 E 30. It's a tiller model with a wheel retrofitted. I am a novice and am trying to get the boat sailable. A mechanic told me the stuffing box is leaking, but that on this boat the engine must be pullled to work on it. He says the fuel tank prevents access. He also suggests that while he's in there I should let him install a permanent seal. He says the whole job will cost $1500. Before I do this, does anyone have any experience or advice regarding this problem?

 

[Jeff Asbury]

I would try the cheaper route first .

I would try the cheaper route first and just put new packing glands in the stuffing box and tighten it up before you go to the great expense your mechanic is talking about. My mechanic is not a fan of those permeant stuffing boxes. If anything does go wrong with them, you will have to haul the boat again. I have an E-27 and I know it's hard to get to, but not impossible.

I just throw a heavy blanket over the engine and lay on top of it. I then reach down and use a small pipe wrench and channel locks to open and close the stuffing box. Just because it's leaking may not mean it needs to be replaced unless part of it is cracked.

Jeff

 

[Loren Beach]

I am not familiar with your model, but can discuss one type of packless sealing system, the PSS shaft seal from PYI Inc.
I had one put on in '95, and have had zero problems since.

As to whether they are too "new-fangled and risky", I went with the information I got from some engineers on the YachtList... that this technology came late to our little boating nich market, and had been in use for many decades for pumping/transporting liquids in industry. As to any weak point, it appears to be the same as the stuffing box I replaced -- in either case the reinforced hose needs to be replaced every so many years (6 to 8, or longer, per PYI).
I just called them and was told that the seal itself is good for about 25000 hours (!) of run time. The hose, BTW, does not deteriorate, per se, but may take a "set" such that the internal spring no longer puts quite enough pressure on the seal, after X number of years. I was told that should this happen, the seal can be moved down the shaft an eighth or quarter inch and tightened up again to re-establish the pressure on the seal. There is, BTW, a procedure to follow to be sure that the set screws get a renewed grip on the shaft.

I find that the seal between the SS colar and the graphite face seal stays cool to the touch and keeps the sea out completely.
A dry bilge is A Good Thing.

If you can, OTOH, find a way to access your stuffing box for servicing, the newer teflon-impregnated packing seems to be really good stuff, too.

As to your access problem, is there a place in a quarter berth or lazarette where you could create a new removable access panel? I have added extra access places and also quite a few ventilators around the interior of our boat.
As they say, a patient amateur can usually achieve "professional looking" results; it just takes 10 times longer...



Best,

Loren in Portland, Or
Olson 34 #8