tenders
Innocent Bystander
E32 cockpit core repair: an illustrated guide
The cockpit deck of my fine 32, built in 1969, owned and sailed by me since 1991 on three US coasts (west, north, and east), had become progressively spongier and spongier; I think the area around the fuel fill had leaked water long ago.
My boat partner and I repaired this to our mutual satisfaction for about $500 in supplies and about 25 hours of work time, though that number is hard to estimate. Here's what we did:
* Mark off desired zone with masking tape. Cutout zone should leave sufficient decking in place to accommodate 2 further inches of beveling, plus any desired area beyond beveling for paint
* Cut with angle grinder with diamond blade - mark the appropriate depth on blade, and do not cut lower layer of glass!
* Remove top layer by hook or by crook. Areas of balsa may remain surprisingly sound and adherent to both layers of fiberglass
* Scrape out old balsa core (screwdriver, oscillating saw, sander)
* Cut plywood template to fit hole in deck. Place any holes in template using parts of top layer removed during initial cut
* Using template, cut 1/2" foam core slab and add any necessary holes
* Using template, cut G10 (I used 3/16" thickness) and add any necessary holes
* Grind and sand a 2" taper all the way around the G10
The cockpit deck of my fine 32, built in 1969, owned and sailed by me since 1991 on three US coasts (west, north, and east), had become progressively spongier and spongier; I think the area around the fuel fill had leaked water long ago.
My boat partner and I repaired this to our mutual satisfaction for about $500 in supplies and about 25 hours of work time, though that number is hard to estimate. Here's what we did:
* Mark off desired zone with masking tape. Cutout zone should leave sufficient decking in place to accommodate 2 further inches of beveling, plus any desired area beyond beveling for paint
* Cut with angle grinder with diamond blade - mark the appropriate depth on blade, and do not cut lower layer of glass!
* Remove top layer by hook or by crook. Areas of balsa may remain surprisingly sound and adherent to both layers of fiberglass
* Scrape out old balsa core (screwdriver, oscillating saw, sander)
* Cut plywood template to fit hole in deck. Place any holes in template using parts of top layer removed during initial cut
* Using template, cut 1/2" foam core slab and add any necessary holes
* Using template, cut G10 (I used 3/16" thickness) and add any necessary holes
* Grind and sand a 2" taper all the way around the G10
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