Recent content by sailorman37

I used 3M 101 which is a polysulfide sealant. don't think they offer that anymore, but butyl probably would have been a better choice since it has more elasticity than polysulfide.

Thanks. Sorry for hijacking the thread. Wanted to show the headliner is an easy project if you don't mind losing the zipper access.

I was dreading doing the Naugahyde fearing I wouldn't be able to make it look nice. Even tried to get a quote for a "professional", but he never showed up at the boat. Turned out to be one of the easier jobs and much better than trying to smooth the interior glass and paint. The other projects...

Pulled out some more pictures and if I remember correctly, I used the door skin material on the coach house interior because I could get it in a long enough piece where the teak plywood was unreasonably expensive for that length. However, I did use the 1 sided teak plywood at the bulkheads...

I had pulled out all the teak and stripped with a heat gun and "varnished" with about 5 coats of polyurethane. Also pulled out 3 of the 4 bulkheads and replaced since they were so rotted. Fortunately what would have been the hardest to pull (aft wall of head) was decent and I stripped it in...

I pulled out the old zippered headliner and replaced with off white naugahyde. Very easy to pull tight and staple with a hand held stapler. I choose to upgrade to SS or Monel staples since the previous were completely rusted. Covered the seams with simple teak strips. Also used a door skin...

You can just barely see the adapter in the back

I have the 5416 (Kubota block) and did need the 1/8" BPT adapter you mentioned. Like you, don't know why they used British threads, but it did solve the issue.

Is that the side to the hull that shows the additional crack? It is quite possible that stress along with salt is causing stress corrosion/crevice corrosion. Very small cracks (microgap behing plate) allowed stagnant salt water to continue the process till failure. Due to the quality of steel...

Back a few comments in this thread you can see I cut the top off the vertical bracket. The vertical piece was decent, but the top plate was bad. I then made up a new plate and had the local tractor shop weld it into the vertical piece for a few dollars. Replacement U bolts from RigRite are...

Ericson 30+ rudder tube Here are a couple of pictures of my 1980 30+ when I was refitting. It looks like the sheave is slightly lower than the quadrant.

I have the Universal 16 HP engine with a 1" prop shaft, 12R10, 3 blade and it still has about 4" unsupported. How big is your 3 blade and how far from the strut? Thanks

Typical design dictates the prop should not be more than about 1X the shaft diameter from strut to prop. However, it seems the 30+ came from the factory with about 4X that distance. Has anyone with the 30+ done anything about that - either a smaller prop so the shaft could be shortened or...

I had to cut away the plastic headliner to get at those nuts. If you can make sense of these pictures the first is from the head looking up into the crack above the light and the locker sliding doors, and the second is from inside the locker. You can see how the cut-a-way extended out to get...

Just like you mentioned, had to get your head into the locker in the head and then two more under the head liner. Check the S.S. very carefully since the original metal is very prone to crevice corrosion. Here are pics of how I accessed mine and the damage after I removed the hardware.