Recent content by 67rway

We're a few months into use of a windward sheeting traveler system. It's been a huge improvement, particularly sailing/racing short-handed as we have been for awhile now. I'll probably remove(uggh)/plug/gelcoat over the old traveler control line blocks at some point; both upper and lower...

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I have a 10L10 that I had behind an A4 on a prior boat...

I spent waaay too much time trying to free the frozen check ball in mine too, and ended up carefully cutting the glass around it to access the zerk body enough to put a small socket on it and remove. Replaced with a quality Alemite zerk, and reglassed.

Great discussion, having sucked river grass/weeds thru the raw water pump and into the heat exchanger... Clear to see how it happened looking at the old thru-hull strainer. One of the new ones shown for comparison. Seems ideal to have internal and external strainers.

I've found that sparing use of blue locktite holds my wheel nut reasonably well, and remains serviceable. I'd avoid red locktite...

More a rendition than clean/accurate, but you're welcome to use it. You're shirt company may want an .EPS file instead, which I believe I have available. Feel free to mssg me for it. The company I used was concerned about the lines being too narrow, but it worked fine.

Data point: Installing mast cleats for main and spin halyards has greatly improve my single/double handed effectiveness.

No problem. Hope you get it sold. Sad not to be able to check out the progress on Fresh Air these days...

Suspect I'm part of that 'microscopic' list. Whaddaya figure it's worth?

Chris, Your boat appears to be missing the upper collar that fits tightly around the shaft from the under side of the deck, and attaches to the deck plate, though with somewhat (!!!) inadequate fasteners.

The pin you refer to here is the thru bolt holding the quadrant to the shaft. As an aside: I had the e-tiller come in very handy one day when I lost steering approaching a busy starting line. Fortunate to have been on the windward end of the group! The master link in the chain had come apart...

I recently had my pedestal out for refinishing and a guard change, and doubt I could have lifted it without having the bolts all the way out. It took a fair amount of heat and leverage to break it loose. Hopefully yours is easier.

I'm a relative newbie, but my belief is to both reduce and manage a water leak, rather than to eliminate it. So... I did my due diligence regarding extraneous holes, resealing the mast partners deck plate(Cliff's Notes version), and using the stretchy mast tape Christian mentioned, but also...

Lots of strong opinions on the following, but here ya go: 4. Carefully inspect for leakage from inside hull to keel joint (flood as needed; food coloring?). If not leaking gain access to ALL keel bolts, carefully inspect nuts/washers/surrounding, and re-torque. I got almost a turn on one of mine...