...This would require moving the forward hinge back for the opening part. I think it would leave enough room to open the hatch to work on the rode or forward deck fittings from below.
Any ideas on how I can reinforce the area under the windlass to handle the load?
Rick - I'm not a mechanical engineer (disclosure), but my idea would be to cut an aluminum backing plate the size of the hatch opening that is being glassed in so the force pulling forward is tied to the deck.
No details available.
Good idea, and altho it might add an extra couple of pounds, how about fabbing up a plate out of G-10? No corrosion threat and if you spec it out at 3/8" or more it should be just as strong.
The bar that my windlass rotates on is securely bolted to the underside of the bow cleats through bolts. You could probably lift the front half of the boat out of the water by it. There is probably an opportunity for you to use a similar method to re-enforce what you are referring to.
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Windlass update: The Lewmar Pro Series Windlass that that previous owner installed in 2007 and spent about $900 on, not including install, failed on me last weekend,weighing anchor in breezy conditions. I ended up having to hand haul up the 60 ft of chain and 33 pound Bruce. It wasn't that bad, and my arms felt good afterwards.
Trying to to trouble shoot it this weekend, I concluded the motor has failed. So, I removed the windlass. Extremely disappointing that this thing would be shot so soon. A new motor is about $150, but this is honestly at the bottom of my list. It actually feels nice not having that heavy piece of equipment on the now and having to rely on it. I'm going windlass-less for a while and see how it works out.
Mark
Thanks for the starter motor tip!
Don't get me wrong, if I was going to install a windlass, I would install it concealed the way the previous owner did. I'm just disappointed that this expensive piece of equipment gave up the ghost so soon. To me, that is not acceptable. I think I'm going to call Lewmar. It looks like they have a five year warranty, and this windlass is just outside that window.
Mark
I feel your pain! I was complaining to Tom Metzger about the cost of this project (to which he said, " A sailor's dog sticks his head out the window to get away from the complaints" or something like that).
Well, I broke down and reinstalled my windlass today. I bought a new motor from Defender for about $145 (Lewmar wouldn't warrantee it). Took the whole thing apart and reassembled. The old motor was obviously shot with bad signs of corrosion. Cleaned everything up on the inside, re-greased, and resealed everything. Took the better part of a day, but pretty easy to do.
Mark
Agreed! ...We put the Lewmar V700 on our 32-2 and really like it! We also notched a channel into the bow and installed a bow roller system to better stabilize the anchor line when hauling the anchor. A tight fit but it worked out perfectly.Rick - How did you know I was coming home today?
BTW, I thought you had a handsome Ericson E-32, not a work boat or barge. That windlass looks more like a line grabber than an anchoring device. :eek: I would be more inclined to go with a low profile V700 or similar design.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2276108|2276145|2276147&id=1599818
I don't know if any of this style windlass can be operated without dropping the chain through the deck. I have a vertical windlass with a capstan (useless) behind my anchor locker and hanging down into the V-berth. I'm of the "handsome is as handsome does" school of thought - who would have guessed? - and didn't box it in. Because of the shallow anchor locker I have to tail the chain. While I can, I don't usually use the windlass for the rope part of the rode.
There are several threads on installing windlasses which should be available with a search.
I hate people that don't answer the question that was asked. To answer your question: I don't think you can get enough power out of this windlass. It's advertising says it is for a 20 - 30 foot boat; you want to be conservative. It only has a 150 watt motor. I have popped the 70 amp breaker (840 watts) on my windlass... not a problem, but a PITA to go below to reset it. The motor is rated 1000 Watts.