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JorritWit

New Member
Hello Ericson lovers!

Bought a 1969 Ericson 30' last year for 5k and have had only issues since. Spent 7k in repairs and a cradle. Love the look and how it sails. Atomic 4 engine is stalling even after carburator overhaul and electrical work. Had a cracked seal that led to water in the gas tank so still trying to work this out. They pumped it out.

Was the Atomic 4 the original motor? Should I spend more then my $1500 already invested to fix it? Which diesel would be a good fit.. and watch the price I paid for the boat.

Yesterday took a couple friends out. Awesome day of sailing.... at the end ^**^^% hit the fan. Heading back motor refused to start. Discovered even when the choke is pushed in it does not adjust by the engine. I am not that handy so marina will fix that. Then my genoa, which kept catching on the spreaders ripped a a good 2' along a seam. Any one got the max size that sail should be?

Solutions to avoid the spreaders from ripping sails? Yes a smail jib would work but there has to be a solution there.

Anyone in the Toronto area that knows this boat and would like to help an experienced sailer (as a kid/teen on a C+C 25) with his first boat of his own? It is moored in Queens landing, victoria harbour, On. Canada.... and I need help/advice. :esad:

Jorrit Wit
416-818-8413
jorrit.wit@vertexsoft.com
 

aquavit

Member II
I am right around the corner in Penetang. I'm no expert but I could lend a hand where I can. PM me and I can send you contact info. Was Queens Landing formerly called Queens Cove? If so, I used to work for Peter Lyons when he was building that Marina.
Glenn or Aquavit.
 

chtaylor

Member II
Jarritt,

I am by no means an expert on the A4, but I've had to do alot of work on mine over the last 3 - 4 years. If you've had water in your gas tank and someone just pumped it out, it is possible that there is still water in your fuel system. Check the fuel pump bowl and replace any and all filters, if you haven't done so already. Blow out your fuel lines and carburator.

I also thought about replacing the A4, but decided against it for two reasons:

1 - the cost. A couple of years ago I stopped by a Betamarine booth at a boat show here in San Diego. They sell a diesel said to be a direct replacement for the A4. The quoted me $10,000.00 for the engine and all associated parts and labor. I smiled, tried to look cool, told them I heard my mommy calling me and fled as quickly as possible. You could probably find some used diesel for a lot less money, but for me, anything over $3 - 4 K just isn't cost effective given the age and resale value of the boat.

2 - familiarity. Many of us can troubleshoot and fix alot of the problems on a gas engine, including tune-ups, headgasket replacements, water intrusion issues, etc. Many laymen have worked on gas engines and are familiar with the basics. The rest can be learned online, including at http://www.moyermarine.com/. I know about as much about diesels as I know about nuclear propulsion, impulse engines, warp drives, etc.:egrin:

Charles Taylor
 

Randy Rutledge

Sustaining Member
As an A4 owner and one that has rebuilt diesel engines. My opinion is the diesel is simple to work on, dependable, smelly, vibrates and creates lots of noise. The A4 is a little temperamental, a slight risk of fire or explosion, quiet, smooth, no odor below and easy to keep going.
Items to keep in mind on the A4
Ignition points: have spares and know how to install
Spark plugs: have spares and know how to install.
Clean fuel supply: Use fuel stabilizer and have clean filters
Sticking valves: Use Marvel Misty Oil in fuel and engine oil
The A-4 has a history of blowing the head gasket between cylinders three and four if the incorrect gasket is used, if replaced use Moyer M gasket.
Bottom line get the repair manual from Moyer Marine read it and learn to do the work yourself and save money and be prepared to handle issues when and where they happen

If you don't have rollers or boots on the spreader ends get them on to protect the sail.
 
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windjunkee

Member III
FYI, when we bought Voice of Reason, the head was off, the engine was frozen, there was visible rust in all 4 cylinders. We were going to replace but decided to rebuild. It cost around $2500 and the engine was good as new. The A-4's last forever. I second the comments about Marvel Mystery Oil. We use it.
We suffered from water in the fuel and carb and it was really a bitch. It would stall the engine or it would fail to start at some of the most inopportune times. We solved it by raising the exhaust loop and putting a drain on the muffler. We have a ritual of turning off the engine, shutting off the raw water intake and draining the muffler. When heeled over, we were getting water coming back into the engine and, therefore, into the carb. We went a year of draining the water from the carb while under sail before figuring out the fix.
Finally, call Moyer Marine. Those guys are helpful, knowlegeable and friendly.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason, E-32 Hull #134
Redondo Beach, CA
 

steven

Sustaining Member
A4

I have my A4 professionally looked after every spring. for a few hundred $. Replace sparks, points, filters, impeller, oil even if "unnecessary" and readjust. Also replace anything else that looks worn and keep the engine clean. Follow Moyer's winter layup advice.

Starts well, runs well, but is starting to get a bit cranky (e..g., have to fuss with the choke as load and rpm change), so maybe time to replace.

After lots of research, I'm planning on rebuilding and/or replacing with a rebuilt - expect it will then go another 40yrs.

By the way, if you haven't already, suggest you inspect (or have a surveyor inspect) your engine compartment exhaust blower and hoses. It is one of the key safety systems for a gas inboard.


--Steve
 

HughHarv

Hugh
A4 Water in Fuel

Definitely sounds like water in the gas, engine dies suddenly when the water hits the carb. Very hard to pump all of it out of the tank and the float bowl on the carburetor likely has water in it.

Maybe need to fill the tank with fuel, let the water settle to the bottom and try to drain off or pump off the bottom into a clear container. Let the container sit undisturbed for a few minutes and see if a layer of water settles to the bottom. If so, you still have water in the tank. You may be able to pump off the bottom or drain water off from a valve at bottom of tank (if your lucky enough to have this option). May have to pump fuel and water to filter and drain it there.

Does the A4 carburertor have a drain petcock or do you have to remove it's top to get to the float bowl in order to remove the water? Make sure you have only fuel coming out of hose from tank before hooking up your fuel line to your carb. Use the clear container to check it again.
 

Seth

Sustaining Partner
Genoa catching on spreaders?

Something is wrong here with the lead position or you are mashing the sail so far in that it is jammed against the spreaders. You should have a dacron spreader patch on each side of the leech of the genoa (and extending in about 2-3') to protect the sail when you tack, and of course you should either have boots or at least a good tape job on the spreaders to eliminate any sharp edges.

But, all overlapping headsails will be the same in this regard, and do not pose a problem. If your lead is too far fwd, then the leech will be hard against the spreader when trimmed in. See my other posts here for guidance on setting the genoa car position.

Good luck,

S
 

JorritWit

New Member
You guys are amazing

I read through these posts and I really appreciate the time spent on them. My first year with the boat has been frustrating with limited sailing and max $$ spent. I am in no rush but general consensis seems to be get to know your A4 and it will last. I will go through these posts buy the moyer manual, and tell you how it all works.

Happy sailing!
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
Starts well, runs well, but is starting to get a bit cranky (e..g., have to fuss with the choke as load and rpm change), so maybe time to replace.

--Steve

I hope you didn't mean, "time to replace the engine" because of this! These are classic symptoms of a simple fouled carb. Just take it apart and clean it out with carb cleaner, and use a thin wire to ream out the tiny holes near where the fuel goes into the engine. May not need any more money than the cost of a carb gasket, if even that.

I add Marvel Mystery Oil and Sta-Bil to all my fuel and have had pretty good luck over the years, even with ethanol fuel. I also have a Racor spin-on fuel filter on the fuel line, plus a little polishing filter right before the carb.
 

Bill Sanborn

Member III
A4 Carb Kit

NAPA Auto Parts sells a carb kit with parts that fit the A4 carb. p/n 2-1554. Last time I bought it was an order item but only took a week.

I have no connection to NAPA.
 

Randy Rutledge

Sustaining Member
Thanks Bill My E29 is a 1978 and is the late model carb. The points, condenser, rotor and cap are from a 1972 chevy vega.
 
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