Oil Level Checking Woes= Hurth

Last night I checked the oil (ATF) level in the Hurth transmission on our Universal M25XP. You would think that after all these years I would "get used" to barked knuckles...
Not so.
Loosen the two hose clamps that hold the heat exchanger. Then, remove the two bolts that hold the H.E. bracket to the bell housing.
Then carefully hold the H.E. back from the hidden transmission-top plug that also incorporates a dip stick.
(and then of course the coolant hose slips off the manifold because the clamp was not quite tight enough... and some green coolant leaks out. Quickly reattached and duly sworn at, it is restored to its place.

For some reason the plug resists efforts with a socket on an extension, until it's ready to let go and bark two knuckles at once.
The blood sacrifice is successful and we check the steel rod attached to that plug. Level is up to the indentation. All is well for this season.


I ponder why oh why didn't Universal marinize the little Kubota with an H.E. combined with the manifold like Betamarine? :rolleyes_d:

It's a reliable little work horse of an engine, but if it needs replacement, I will look first at a power plant with better servicing planned right from the git-go.

At least the transmission is well named. That's what I said when asking Kathy to pass over a rag and two band aids. "Ow, my hand hurth!"

Anyone ever seen a proper dip stick conversion for one of these? I mean, how hard can it be? My truck has a diip stick for its transmission that comes up a couple feet from somewhere behind the block in the dim recesses...

Thanks for listening. I feel slightly improved now.


Loren

I can feel your pain $@&^%*.

Loren,

I keep a 17mm "ratchet wrench" just for this purpose. I have also learned not to over tighten the bolt. It does give suddenly perhaps because there is no washer on the bolt. There is a washer on the drain plug. Perhaps mine is missing. Should the top bolt also have a washer?? I think that in the future I will try a pair of gloves to prevent the tissue loss to the knuckles.

Mike

Hi Mike,
Yup there is a flat alum. washer under that threaded top plug.
LB

Yup, I hated that too - though at least on our 38 I didn't have to remove anything to get to it. I had heard there was supposed to be one of those crushable aluminum washers under there, but mine didn't have one, and I never did get around to finding one.

Actually the thing that vexed me the most was that once I got the darn dip stick thingy out, I couldn't see the level of the oil on the stick! In wiping it clean I noticed that the invisible oil would leave a stain on the paper towel, so after that I would just roll the stick onto a paper towel which left a mark that would allow me to guess where the oil level had been.

When you think of the things that you need to check to keep the boat healthy (bilge water, engine oil, battery level, trans oil, fuel level, water tanks, holding tanks) it sure would be nice if these were all a bit easier to get at!

Two thoughts here:
The integrated HX/exhaust manifold is great, until it needs to be replaced! Then you are paying for a much more expensive item. Independent HX's are also easier to service, certainly in the case of my 5432, removing the exhaust manifold in the boat is MUCH more difficult then just the HX....

I'm a believer in the right tool for the job. Using a short wrench or ratchet handle is expedient but a long handled, flex head ratchet provides better torque, feel and dexterity to most any job. Increasing the lever length, think longer wrench, ratchet, etc. will break fasteners free easily and control the overstroke too. A section of extensions, U-joints, etc. also helps keep you hands out of harms way. Lastly, Mechanix brand gloves do wonders in keeping lacerations to a minimum.

Sorry you hurt your hand! We've all done it....
RT

My approach

I bought a transmission fluid dipstick for a car. I bent it 90 degrees so that it would rest atop the tranny just so the grid on the dipstick fell exactly where the detent was on the cap stud. I loosen the cap, hold it to one side, and slip the dipstick in beside it to check the oil. No HX removal required.

I appreciate all the replies, but the $@&^%* comment from Randy is the most treasured.


You guys are great!

Regards,
LB

Are you available?

Loren,

I'm due to check my trans fluid too. Here's what I'm thinking, you have the whole procedure fresh in your mind and you already have bandages in place. Perhaps you could stop by and save me some frustration!

I have never considered fabricating an extension tube for the transmission. If there were a tube in place then changing the fluid would also be much easier. All you would need to do is slip a vacuum tube down inside the trans and suck the oil out.

Does anyone know if such an extension tube would have to be sealed at the top. If an airtight seal were required, then the fabrication of an extension tube would be more complex.

Paul

Hurst trans fluid changer

I change the trans fluid every five years with the nominal usage of our unit. To do so, I've fitted a turkey baster with a flexible extension tube to suck out the old fluid. It really does not take much effort to pull it all out, and then once rinsed with clean fluid, the same baster is used to introduce the new fluid.

Sorry but I have no quick and easy way to get to the trans!

Dispose of the old oil properly.

Hi, nice to join you, we have an M25 engine and have helped friends with E32s.

Try this: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5757.0.html

Ideal job for a one-armed man

I can contort to reach the dipstick cap on my installation (5432, with the HX above and slightly forward).

I have a 17 mm box wrench that fits snugly. I also have a small ball peen hammer that, if swung accurately, will gently move the wrench without making it drop off or fly off. Any small hammer would work if you have the room to swing it.

Gloves! Wish I'd thought of that.

Tighten without straining when you're done. I have not lost the washer yet. It is a soft metal of some kind.

I also use a turkey baster to remove the fluid. I measure the fluid removed to help with the refill. Laying the dipstick on a white rag or paper towel is the only way to read the level.