Gary Peterson
Marine Guy
On our 381, the Dorade box had two Dorade vents and a storage space in the center. I believe some Ericsons had different set ups. I removed the two Dorade vents and removed the two round plates that the Dorades screwed into. Then it is time to tape all of the surrounding outside area because you will make a mess with Epoxy trying to get it and the Glass mat in and around the water separators on each side. I plugged the drain holes with modeling clay because you want to use a lot of Epoxy and mat to really seal the outer side of the insides of the vent box. I also put three layers of mat in the center section to seal the floor of it.
Maybe, but I went through sealing up the interior of the dorades when I bought the boat. Multiple applications of Smith Bros. CPES epoxy poured in. But I'm sure it could be that again..... I really, really, really, really hate the headliner in my boat. I can't really imagine a worse idea than hiding the entire ceiling of a boat when that entire ceiling is riddled with hatches, deck hardware, etc. requiring numerous, if not hundreds of penetrations, through said deck and ceiling. And then there is the additional annoying tendency of the headliner to channel off any water and let it out far, far away from the actual leak. Bottom line is the headliner is coming out. RT
I just finished re - bedding all deck hardware on my boat except for stanchions which will be next,the biggest job so far was the teak grab rails on which just about every screw hole was leaking. My 2 cents worth is if you are buying a new old boat just plan on re - bedding all deck hardware and you wont have any leaks(it's just normal maintenance),all the holes Will be accessible irrespective of the headliner unless they used self tapping screws which I doubt!
If you intend buying an Ericson,find the best one for your money and just do it,there is no such thing as the perfect boat within the same model,just realize that no matter how good the boat looks or surveys,you will still have a @$?it load of things that you want to do better than the PO did!
As far as the differences in the E38,the main things are: deep keel or shoal keel, the deep keel will not be as tender as the 3' 11" draft and will point better,some differences in layout but that's about it. Don't sweat the minor stuff,find a good boat ,buy it and get sailing while you're still alive IMHO.
If you intend buying an Ericson,find the best one for your money and just do it,there is no such thing as the perfect boat within the same model,just realize that no matter how good the boat looks or surveys,you will still have a @$?it load of things that you want to do better than the PO did!
As far as the differences in the E38,the main things are: deep keel or shoal keel, the deep keel will not be as tender as the 3' 11" draft and will point better,some differences in layout but that's about it. Don't sweat the minor stuff,find a good boat ,buy it and get sailing while you're still alive IMHO.
ted_reshetiloff
Contributing Partner
Rob I have found the headliner on Escape Plan 1989 E-38 Hull 302 to be surprisingly functional. However all my zippers work
There have been a few times when I have had to remove portions of it to gain access to things, but typically this has only involved removing some trim then pulling the staples. I thought my genoa track on the strbd side was leaking so yesterday I pulled the trim along the bottom edge of the cabinside, removed the stapels and immedialtly had access to nearly the entire track. Which it turns out was not the source, it was a gate stanchion which I rebedded. Normally I am not a fan of headliners but I have found the Ericson 38's to be a good comprimise that allows reasonable access. If you have mysterious deck leaks the ONLY solution is to rebed everything. Its a long project but well worth it if you plan to keep the boat and want to preserve the core.
There have been a few times when I have had to remove portions of it to gain access to things, but typically this has only involved removing some trim then pulling the staples. I thought my genoa track on the strbd side was leaking so yesterday I pulled the trim along the bottom edge of the cabinside, removed the stapels and immedialtly had access to nearly the entire track. Which it turns out was not the source, it was a gate stanchion which I rebedded. Normally I am not a fan of headliners but I have found the Ericson 38's to be a good comprimise that allows reasonable access. If you have mysterious deck leaks the ONLY solution is to rebed everything. Its a long project but well worth it if you plan to keep the boat and want to preserve the core.Headliner
Rob, do you have any plans for replacement? I'm leaning toward semi rigid plastic supported by teak strips. The under deck area where the chain plate rods come through are giving me trouble coming up with a solution.
Don Wigle
Wiggle Room
E38 #8
Pt Richmond, CA
Pretty much where I'm at. Between non working zippers and my inability to staple a straight line, I'm ready to pull it, plus my wife just doesn't like it.
Rob, do you have any plans for replacement? I'm leaning toward semi rigid plastic supported by teak strips. The under deck area where the chain plate rods come through are giving me trouble coming up with a solution.
Don Wigle
Wiggle Room
E38 #8
Pt Richmond, CA
Actually Don, you hit the nail on the head! Semi-rigid plastic and teak/mahogany strips. I was pretty close to using 1/4 plywood beadboard and strips but after pricing and time involved just finishing the beadboard, never mind making it all fit perfect and line up, that made my decision. A friend of mine redid his headliner on a Seidelman 30. He used the plastic/fiberglass panels that are used for commercial kitchens, outdoor showers, etc. The material is white, has a textured/pebbled finish, will not absorb water, rigid enough to span short distances, easy to clean, lightweight, and less than 1/8" thick. I know the purists are choking on this one but I swear his boat looks great. He simply epoxied 4" strips of 1/2" marine ply across the ceiling every 16" perpendicular to the boat centerline. Then he made templates, cut the new material and installed it with 1/2 stainless screws every 12" or so. He left @1" of space between the panels and made 2" teak battens to cover the seams this time with brass screws. He had to make some extra teak trim pieces for other areas. Very simple, easy to access and impervious to water. Its the way I'm leaning. RT
Rob I have found the headliner on Escape Plan 1989 E-38 Hull 302 to be surprisingly functional. However all my zippers work
Some of my staples are rotten, the material starts to tear when pulling at it and two zippers are shot. I hate looking at the bulges in it from the wiring and I can't get the trim back on around the mast. Its days are past. Unstapling and restapling to access areas is not convenient IMHO. I cannot get to some of my deck hardware, can't see the dorade area at all, etc. etc. While I wholeheartedly agree that everything should be rebedded, something on my list, I don't like working around the headliner. I've had to do it to replace the traveller, rebed the seahood and replace the clutches. It irritated me then and it does now. Honestly, I prefer a simple open ceiling with acorn nuts on the hardware and conduit for the electrical. If I thought I could get the ceiling good enough I would paint it and be done. RT
Getting motivated again
Rob, FWIW I took cheap masking tape to mark the headliner into sections to find what i thought was the correct way to divide the headliner area. The angles by the head and the unusual spacing of the quarter-berth made it more difficult than friends' boats that have nice flat bulkheads. Also in the plan were wide inverted T shaped mountings for the grab rails that the headliner would slip under. Of course this means that I'll have to replace the cabin sides as there is some rot where the cheap staples have rusted into the wood, but Jan(wife) is in favor of new stainless portlights and that would be just a little more work. And so it goes.
Don Wigle
Wiggle Room
E38 #8
Pt. Richmond, CA
Rob, FWIW I took cheap masking tape to mark the headliner into sections to find what i thought was the correct way to divide the headliner area. The angles by the head and the unusual spacing of the quarter-berth made it more difficult than friends' boats that have nice flat bulkheads. Also in the plan were wide inverted T shaped mountings for the grab rails that the headliner would slip under. Of course this means that I'll have to replace the cabin sides as there is some rot where the cheap staples have rusted into the wood, but Jan(wife) is in favor of new stainless portlights and that would be just a little more work. And so it goes.
Don Wigle
Wiggle Room
E38 #8
Pt. Richmond, CA