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e 35 2 standing rigging specs

seanflinn

Inactive Member
Hi all, I am in the proccess of re-rigging my 1970 E 35 2 but the yard I been having the work done in has mis-placed my original rigging:confused: I was looking in the archives for the factory size and lengths but I could not find any...does anyone have them or know where I can find them? Also the p.o. was using rod rigging for the head and back stays... any input on that subject would also be appreciated Thanks sean E35 2 hull#124 San Pedro
 

Sven

Seglare
Hi Sean,

I asked about rod rigging for cruising when we started our plan to get the necessary complete standing rigging replacement. The response was a pretty convincing "don't". I can't remember in which forum I posed the question but I don't think I got a single response saying it was a good idea for a cruiser.

The number one reason was that you often get no warning before rod rigging gives way. A second reason was that you can carry spare wire and create a new shroud or stay on board but you can't do it with rod rigging.

I am no expert so I am just relaying what I was advised and I was convinced to stay with wire rigging.


-Sven
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
I would agree on the sensibilty of using rod on this type of boat. The benefits would not likely out way the expense. Rod is expensive and unless you can get it x-rayed is hard to properly inspect. As for specs any competent rigger should be able to look at the terminals on the spar and tell you what size (diameter) rigging should be there. The clevis pin size is the first clue. Have you looked on this site in the specs archives? If I had to guess I would say 5/16 for the fore and backstay, 1/4" for lowers fore and aft, and uppers, and 7/32 for intermediates if your rig has them. But again you should be able to look at the pin sizes at either the mast or boat end to determine. Cant believe they lost your rigging...


One thing I will say about some of the sailnet posts is that I dont think several of those folks know what they are talking about. One suggested that rod rigging failed from a cracked swage. Rod is not terminated with a swage. One reason its actually better than wire. Another suggested its hard to carry a replacement stay. Thats nonsense as all you need is http://www.colligomarine.com/. Wire is far more prone to crevice corrosion, and I cant tell you how many bad swages I see on boats with brand new rigging. Wire is also heavier and not as strong as rod. All that being said wire is IMHO the most practical rigging for a 1970 E-35 MK2. Dont take my opinion as any gospel though I would refer you to www.briontoss.com for a true authority on rigging questions. Message boards are good for opinions but I am very leery about taking any recreational boater's advice without thorough research.
 
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gareth harris

Sustaining Member
Not all E35 masts are the same length, most are 42', some are 40', and I have read that there is a 45' version. If you have a 42' mast I can measure the exact lengths for you since my rig is down - except it may be a couple of weeks (no more than a month) before I will be back in my barn where it is stored.

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
 

chaco

Member III
Resources Center AHOY !

Here is the Rigging Info from our Resources Files.
Looks like you need to verify your Mast Length and Start Over :esad:
 

Attachments

  • e35_running_rig_specs.pdf
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ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
Pretty sure Sean was looking for standing rigging specs. No two boats even with the same rigs are close enough to make the rigging the same length. If they were West Marine would be selling pre-made rigging kits for all the Bendytoes, catalinas and hunters. Has to be measured. You can get close using another boat's measurments but ultimately it has to be measured on the boat its going on. One way this can be done is to estimate each length and add a foot or so. Then you can swage (rotary hopefully not kearney or wire teknik) the top (mast end) fittings. Dress the rig and step it. Then use mechanical ( sta-lok, norseman, or hy-mod) fittings on the bottom. The mechanical fittings allow you to cut the wire on site to the right length, downside is the fittings are going to add about 30% to the cost over swaging. Plus you will likely tie up the crane for a bit which will add to the cost. There are other ways around not having your old rigging available but this is the easiest.
 

seanflinn

Inactive Member
Thank you all for your input, I was looking for standing rigging specs... there are some standing rigging specs in the archive threads but those were for a
E 38.... so I guess I will be turning the yard upside down looking for my original rigging...
Thanks again... This site rules! sean E 35 hull#124
 
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